Flat 6

Member

• Jan 16, 2022

• #1

Me again,

On the subject of usability and winter driving, for some reason my fuel and temp gauges and my instrument lighting have all stopped working. I have warning lights for choke, engine oil pressure and full beam on the dials.

I've checked fuses and they all seem OK. I fitted a new fuel sender not that long ago and the fact that the temp gauge is also out suggests to me something shared somewhere?

Any thoughts before I start pulling the instrument pod apart?

Cheers,

Al

 

H

Hicap phill

Well-Known Member

• Jan 16, 2022

• #2

Have you a photo of the dash? There may be a switch to turn the lights on.

as for gauges this may be an earth problem.

 

Flat 6

Member

• Jan 16, 2022

• #3

Yep, there is a dash lighting switch which isn't switching on the dash lighting. Good place to start I guess, to check power and earth.

Earth problem could be root cause of all this but probably means taking the pod apart?

How easy is it to pop out a gauge?

Al

 

steve2286w

Well-Known Member

• Jan 16, 2022

• #4

Power comes from the voltage stabiliser for temp and fuel so check if getting voltage coming out

 

WoodyO

Well-Known Member

• Jan 16, 2022

• #5

More likely to be a voltage problem than earth, as the gauges are earthed through the senders respectively.

 

Flat 6

Member

• Jan 16, 2022

• #6

OK, thanks all. I'll start with the stabiliser.

I see some bloke in Devon makes solid state ones - tempted to fit one anyway to replace the 50's tech that's in there at the mo.

Just need to work out the simplest way of getting the speedo out - presumably those big slot headed bolts at either side of the pod are the place to start?

Cheers,

Al

 

WoodyO

Well-Known Member

• Jan 16, 2022

• #7

Yes, remove those two and the whole binnacle comes out. Should be able to probe the back of the stabiliser with a multimeter.

 

Blackburn

Well-Known Member

• Jan 16, 2022

• #8

Check the round nuts are tight on the gauges as there casings are earthed through the black wires attached to the knurled nuts.
as are the earth return path for gauge lights.

 

Flat 6

Member

• Jan 16, 2022

• #9

Thanks all.

Shame I have to go to work in the morning - I now want to keep tinkering with the Landy!

 

C

Colthebrummie

Well-Known Member

• Jan 17, 2022

• #10

Working on the wiring behind the pod is easier if you remove the steering wheel first and whilst your in there, it might be worth considering replacing the crappy dash bulbs for led ones.

Col

 

tottot

Well-Known Member

• Jan 17, 2022

• #11

Corroded contacts in the fuse box under the steering wheel often a problem on series 3.

 

steve2286w

Well-Known Member

• Jan 17, 2022

• #12

Easier pulling binnacle out after removing the top and btm plastic shroud around steering column , it’s restricted a lot by speedo cable and other wires so careful everything still connected when it goes back

 

L

layfin

Active Member

• Jan 17, 2022

• #13

I had the same problem on my 1984 109 FFR. The problem was the Earth on the Dash. I removed the 2 Gauge's and cleaned the Earths. That solved the problem. My 109 does not have a Voltage Stabilizer fitted.
Regards.
Chris.

 

Fatrover

Well-Known Member

• Jan 20, 2022

• #14

Mines been like that since 1984, all Ive got is high beam indicator and glow plugs Lamp. Oh, but the dash Light itself works which is handy.

 

Shippers

Well-Known Member

• Jan 23, 2022

• #15

Flat 6 said:

OK, thanks all. I'll start with the stabiliser.

I see some bloke in Devon makes solid state ones - tempted to fit one anyway to replace the 50's tech that's in there at the mo.

Just need to work out the simplest way of getting the speedo out - presumably those big slot headed bolts at either side of the pod are the place to start?

Cheers,

Al

Click to expand...

Bought mine of ebay took a load of faff to get through customs but was only a couple of quid for 2 replaced the nacked one on my 101..they are tiny though so rather than solder i pushed the long legs into the wire and heat shrunk on...