They were, but there's also a lot of Rover parts in it.;)
The FL1 was a parts bin special, with parts from Rover, BMW and some Ford parts too. :D
Yeh, and I spent a feck load of cash buying a fancy Discovery back in the day, just to find it had the same wiper/indicator stalks as our Metro, door handles off a Morris Marina....

Edit: I suppose at least it meant it had some parts that worked :D
 
Yeh, and I spent a feck load of cash buying a fancy Discovery back in the day, just to find it had the same wiper/indicator stalks as our Metro, door handles off a Morris Marina....

Edit: I suppose at least it meant it had some parts that worked :D
I don't mind parts bin specials, as often cheaper OE parts can found from less price hiked models. ;)
 
Don't start that rubbish up again.

They are as much Land Rover as any other car carrying the Land Rover or Range Rover badge of the time or since.

They were, but there's also a lot of Rover parts in it.;)
The FL1 was a parts bin special, with parts from Rover, BMW and some Ford parts too. :D

Indeed, same as Defenders, Range Rovers, and the various Discos.
British assembled SUVs. Although not so sporting in the case of Defenders! :D

I actually like Freelanders, they are actually better value than the other non Rover "Landrovers".

And the Freelanderers are always great entertainiment for trolling on LZ, now I have finished the oil change on my PRM gearbox. :)
 
We Freelanderers were lucky no Freelander ever suffered with having a land rover designed engine fitted. Would anyone swop their L series, Td4 or DW12 for a 200tdi, 300tdi or Td5? Hell no.
 
The IRD is 'driven' by a slpined input shaft from the gearbox. Directly driven from that shaft is the PTO for the propshaft to the rear axle. As the PTO is turning, we know drive is getting into the IRD.

At the end of that input shaft is a differential driving the front axle. Its a 'standard' open diff - so it will send torque to the wheel with least resistance. So somewhere between the diff and 1 of the wheels is broken - meaning there is no resistance and the other wheel will not be driven.

The driveshaft for the RH wheel plugs straight into the output from the diff. This is known to fail due to wear on the inner CV on the driveshaft. The CV wear causes wear on the output support bearing in the IRD and drive can be lost.

The driveshaft for the LH wheel plugs into the gearbox casing. The IRD output is picked up by a short splined shaft that goes through the gearbox to the driveshaft. The splines on this shaft (or output from IRD) are what @Nodge68 is referring to.

Pretty sure the IRD will need to be removed to find the fault - definitely to fix it.

Oh and it's a Land Rover, not a JEEP!!
Thanks for the info . Do i guess if i remove and open up thd IRD it will be a collapsed bearing to the RH output to the Diff? I was thinking maybe I'll swap out the IRD for a 2nd one and hope for the best. Yhanks
 
We Freelanderers were lucky no Freelander ever suffered with having a land rover designed engine fitted. Would anyone swop their L series, Td4 or DW12 for a 200tdi, 300tdi or Td5? Hell no.
I've never owned a TD5. Would like to, especially as it is offspring of the L Series. I think Attenborough filmed 2 L Series rutting on the Serengeti and the TD5s conception and birth - how cute eh?
 
Thanks for the info . Do i guess if i remove and open up thd IRD it will be a collapsed bearing to the RH output to the Diff? I was thinking maybe I'll swap out the IRD for a 2nd one and hope for the best. Yhanks
If you remove the IRD you will presumably find the fault either with the splines or that bearing. If that bearing is the fault, it may have damaged gears as well. IIRC, the end cover comes off to expose the diff components.

2nd hand IRDs are notoriously dodgy to buy 2nd hand because they are often the component most likely to go on Freelander. It is much safer, but more expensive, to buy a reconditioned one from a reputable outfit such as Bell Engineering.

When my IRD went, I got a repair kit of new bearings, seals and cooler. This works out a lot cheaper, and more reliable than a 2nd hand unit, if you can install the stuff yourself and the gears have not been damaged. Once you need to install new gears, you may as well get a recon. It also relies on the splines being in-tact.

If the splines have been stripped, I'm not sure if you have to be careful about cleaning out any broken pieces in case they damage anything once a new IRD is reinstalled.

I'm also wondering from your responses, whether this thread will ultimately end up in AG.
 
I was thinking maybe I'll swap out the IRD for a 2nd one and hope for the best.

The component that normally fails and causes RWD only is in the gearbox. It's the spline link that strips, so the drive from the IRD doesn't turn the LH drive shaft.
If it is the spline link, then replacing the IRD won't help.

However while the IRD is out, it makes sense to replace the bearings and seals. ;)
 

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