No imobilizer on this bad boy, think it was built shortly after they invented the wheel.
Right my brothers bringing his multimeter tomorrow, he will probably end up rewiring the whole car (hes an OCD michanic) will let you know what the problem is.
Thanks for your input one and all.
Feel free to keep make more suggestions it might make figuring it out easier tomorrow.
The ignition wiring is SO SIMPLE in fact, but tracing the wires in the loom is not quite so easy.
I suggest you check it all out methodically.
If it isn't sparking, there MUST be one or more simple faults.
The spark happens when the points snap OPEN.
The spark does NOT happen when the points close. It is vital to understand that.
The COIL + should be live to the battery all the time the IGN is ON, and the COIL - should be connected to earth only THROUGH THE POINTS.
You MUST be able to measure battery voltage at COIL+ at all times the IGN is ON.
OK so far?
What happens is that when the points are closed, the current flows from the battery into COIL+, then through the primary windings of the coil to COIL-, then down the wee jump-lead to the distributor, pops inside, and goes through the points to EARTH, with the CAPACITOR connected to the jump-lead side of the points inside the dizzy.
OK?
Basically the coil and the capacitor get all charged up when the points are closed and the current flows, and then when the points OPEN, the current flow suddenly stops, the magnetic flux inside collapses, which causes this electric charge to "backfire" into the secondary windings inside the coil, where (with any luck) a bloody big voltage is induced (at least 25,000 volts on a good day) which is released up the nose of the coil into the KING LEAD.
OK?
Test One.
With the spark plugs OUT, and your meter on OHMS, test between the distributor low voltage terminal (no wire attached) and earth. If the points are closed there should be no resistance, or just a few ohms. This should be a CLOSED CIRCUIT. With the points OPEN, there should be infinite resistance - open circuit. With the test leads in place, turn the engine over on the starter. The meter should jump UP when the points close, and down when the points open. This should happen twice for each full turn of the engine.
IF THIS DOES NOT HAPPEN YOUR FAULT IS IN THE DISTRIBUTOR, usually because the points-gap to the distributor cam-lobe is so big the points don't open (or so small they don't close) or the points set is fitted wrongly and are short-circuited or not making contact.
Check this and report back ...
CharlesY
