RodneyA · Mar 19, 2014

I've recently changed my clutch, fork, release bearing and slave cylinder and I've got no clutch atm.

I bled the system till no air was coming out and I've now got some resistance on the clutch pedal, tho not much resistance till I've pressed it over half way down but still cant engage gear when the car is running, any ideas what It could be?

martin1512 · Mar 19, 2014

RodneyA said:
I've recently changed my clutch, fork, release bearing and slave cylinder and I've got no clutch atm.

I bled the system till no air was coming out and I've now got some resistance on the clutch pedal, tho not much resistance till I've pressed it over half way down but still cant engage gear when the car is running, any ideas what It could be?

Sounds like the master cylinder piston seals may have gone. If you have changed everything else, and put it back together correctly, then it is the most likely culprit.

RodneyA · Mar 19, 2014

There's reservoiris still full, Can the master cylinder be gone without it leaking fluid?

NeilB · Mar 19, 2014

Yes.....you push your foot down and the pedal pushes the rod but all the fluid leaks past the seal so no fluid (or very little) goes down to the slave.

Does that make sense?

martin1512 · Mar 19, 2014

RodneyA said:
There's reservoiris still full, Can the master cylinder be gone without it leaking fluid?

Yes, If the internal seals have gone, the fluid can pass between them and the cylinder wall. The piston pushes the fluid past itself, rather than down the pipe to the slave cylinder.

RodneyA · Mar 19, 2014

It does yeah thanks, I'll order a new one and see how it goes

martin1512 · Mar 19, 2014

RodneyA said:
It does yeah thanks, I'll order a new one and see how it goes

You can buy seal kits for the master cylinders. Fitting them is fairly straight forward.

RodneyA · Mar 19, 2014

I had an order from Brit Car leaving tomorrow morning so I called up and added a new master cylinder OEM to the order, I'll keep you posted.

Out of interest what else could cause it?

martin1512 · Mar 19, 2014

RodneyA said:
I had an order from Brit Car leaving tomorrow morning so I called up and added a new master cylinder OEM to the order, I'll keep you posted.

Out of interest what else could cause it?

TBH, you have replaced everything else that is likely to cause problems with your clutch. So unless you have been given a faulty part, the only thing it can be, other than the master cylinder, is incorrect fitting.

Spunka · Mar 19, 2014

RodneyA said:
I had an order from Brit Car leaving tomorrow morning so I called up and added a new master cylinder OEM to the order, I'll keep you posted.

Out of interest what else could cause it?

has it been stood
I left the cover of the bottom of the fly wheel on my v8
When i got in it to move it after being stood 2 week the clutch woulnt clear
Like you I had fitted all new clutch ect
After a couple of cuppers and a good think I decided to put it in low box 1st start it up (stuck in gear/drive) and manever it out the drive and up the road
I drove it round the estate with my foot on the clutch until it suddenly freed off

I had to do this twice until i put the plate back on, now its fine

Probably nothing to do with your problem but i thought id tell ya

oxides · Mar 19, 2014

Is the slave cylinder the right way up? It'll fit either way on the series 3 box and it'll never bleed if the nipple is at the bottom.

RodneyA · Mar 20, 2014

I'm pretty sure the bleed nipple is at the top lol , I'll need to check

RodneyA · Mar 20, 2014

Yip, it's on the top, just checked.

trax · Mar 20, 2014

might still have air in, jam the clutch pedal fully down, leave it over night and see what happens... doesn't cost you anything to try

RodneyA · Mar 23, 2014

Sadly after replacing the master cylinder I still had to clutch, I even put a bit if square metal over the slave cylinder with a small socket in it to stop the piston going up to far, pressed the clutch and the pedal was rock solid, sadly that means the problem is not between the cylinder and the pedal, I now have to drop the gearbox to see what's wrong in there

martin1512 · Mar 24, 2014

RodneyA said:
Sadly after replacing the master cylinder I still had to clutch, I even put a bit if square metal over the slave cylinder with a small socket in it to stop the piston going up to far, pressed the clutch and the pedal was rock solid, sadly that means the problem is not between the cylinder and the pedal, I now have to drop the gearbox to see what's wrong in there

You did remember to put the clutch release bearing back in didn't you?

RodneyA · Mar 24, 2014

Well I've disconnected the drive shafts, removed the exhaust, handbrake, speedo cable, reverse cable and diff lock cable and took off the gearstick and diff lock stick I'm going to be taking it out tomorrow or Wednesday. Is this doable by 2 peeps? As I don't have a transmission jack. Also....

Is there supposed to be red fluid and some kind of sludge in here?

RodneyA · Mar 24, 2014

Some random pictures

RodneyA · Mar 25, 2014

Ok the gearbox is out and all everything is stripped, the bell housing bits looks fine, but I think something is up with the clutch cover

Of the 10 or so metal arms only half are pulled in straight, the other half are just like they were before I fitted it, sticking out a little, I did notice that 1 of the bolts is missing and after removing the other bolts some of them are longer than other so they weren't pulling the clutch cover down properly, could this be the reason the clutch weren't engaging/disengaging.

I'll post the pics with my iPhone as I'm typing is with my iPad lol

RodneyA · Mar 25, 2014

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