range rover
New Member
ok like i said he does work for a main dealer and ofcourse he will get discount anyway and no it has a engine! thanks
range rover
New Member
ohh and the brakes have been bled in case there was an air lock or something but that done nothing
don't think a machine will find it,i would be surprised,any mechanic worth his salt should pin point this in a few minutes.
all this plugging in for the brakes to me is telling me not to use this garage,they are like your brakes,and wil bleed you dry.
range rover
New Member
eeerrr no its not in a garge at the moment and i thought they invented diagnostics machines to tell you faults ,as i keep saying its hard to explin and you will know what i mean if you have had this before or have worked on something like this before,oooh and just herd its something to do with an electrical fault,
jonny427
New Member
Change the fluid if the levels ok, the system will build pressure after starting, the abs light will go out shortly after moving off. Is it a P38? Could be that the pipes are leaking, any fluid anywhere?. From the sound of it you may have only one circuit working. Give us more info.
The only diagnostic machine that will tell you a bigend is gone or your diff is screwed or a tappet is rattling is your ear. They are good but not fool proof. Hope you find your problem.
range rover
New Member
It is a 1998 p38,the relay witch was 1 problem and now that's sorted and yes there s brake fluid on my drive when I moved the car and it seems to be when you pump the brake the brake fluid is seeping out from the top as if there's to much pressure and t forceing it out,thinking it could be the master cylinder module,what do you think
Either the brake fluid has been overfilled if it is leaking from top of container. (If it is over filled with system pressurised fluid leaks back from accumulator and overflows when vehicle is stood for any length of time).
Or it is overfilled and you have a fault on the modulator which is putting fluid back into the tank instead of to the brakes. Either way it is overfilled. Fluid should be on max mark when system is pressured. When your mechanic bled the brakes did he do it in the correct sequence? It must be done according to the instructions in RAVE manual. Which is totally back to front from usual bleeding method.
jorjio_k
Active Member
hi.as i knew a friend of mine had a p38 which cought fire when he overfilled his brakes reservoir,upon driving it,the brakes fluid spilled from the reservoir and fell on top of the exhaust manifold in the engine.he noticed a smoke coming from under the bonnet,when he pulled over,and as soon as he opened the bonnet,it cought fire due to air rushing in,he was lucky he managed to put fire off with his extingusher b4 having his p38 turn into a ball of fire.and the cause was confirmed as an over filled brakes reservoir,not the main brake pipe that was recalled 4 modifications.so be very careful abt mesuring up ur brake fluid.
jonny427
New Member
Ok you say there is brake fluid under the car if its under the front beneath the reservior, and you say the brakes have been bled, were the bleed nipples tightened? there are I think a couple around the reservior so check where the fluid is comming from. Also turn the ignition on with the bonnet open and watch to see if fluid is pumping out this could be as, suggested earlier, the accumulator or some other gizmo. These brakes will prime when the ignition is switched on.
jlsplinter
New Member
If what you are saying is true. You should be hearing the pump sound all the time. Can you confirm that the pump is working? If you have this problem for long and damage the pump, I think you would be very sorry for not working this problem earlier.
Anyway the first step is to verify if the pump is working, next I would suggest the accumulator. If I remember it correctly, if you have a master cylinder problem, the only warning light you should see is the red one the same as the hand break. You could read it your self in the Rave. It have a very good explanation on how it work.
Anyway the first step is to verify if the pump is working, next I would suggest the accumulator. If I remember it correctly, if you have a master cylinder problem, the only warning light you should see is the red one the same as the hand break. You could read it your self in the Rave. It have a very good explanation on how it work.
so would you say it is a mechanical fault,or electrical,to me it does seem to be a mechanical fault,master cylinder or accumalator.
TheCamelStory
New Member
700 inches is enough to kill someone in a 2.5ton range rover with NO BRAKES.
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rogergoodier
New Member
sounds like fluid,or its got air in the system if the fluid too got low ,is it loosing fluid?aircould creep in overnight how long is it since the fluid was drained and renewed .also could be the master cylinder seales knackered.Sometime good old fashioned mechanicing is the way forward.
c099895
New Member
Range Rover,
Your man that plugged in his gizzmo?, what excact gizzmo was it? was it a Landrover gizzmo or an off the shelf thing, you need to get it plugged into a proffesional diagnostic set up, Testbook , Faultmate etc.. that way you will get the correct readings.
welcome to LZ, enjoy the ribbing off the members
+ great advice:blabla:
Your man that plugged in his gizzmo?, what excact gizzmo was it? was it a Landrover gizzmo or an off the shelf thing, you need to get it plugged into a proffesional diagnostic set up, Testbook , Faultmate etc.. that way you will get the correct readings.
welcome to LZ, enjoy the ribbing off the members
+ great advice:blabla:
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range rover
New Member
no the computer was a proper land rover 1,the problem is now fixed,it was the pump after all that so put a new one on for £50 and works fine again
TAKdriver
Active Member
First : your brake fluid reservoir is overfilled : there is a MIN/Max line on the reservoir. Bleed off fluid until you are on the mex laevel. I also had this but not to your extent.The top end clearance in the reservoir ( nearly a couple of inches from top) is needed for the brake function.
Somebody may have overfilled it thinking that that was the braking problem. It's not : it has created another.
Second : it sounds as if your abs pump isn't working. It is unlikely to be the pump itself but the pressure switch. See under Common problems and fixes. I have posted a <repair abs pump> item.
Pull the multi plug from the pressure switch , clip an earth wire to the battery and put the other end to the BY wire ; switch on ignition, ( might be the BG but you'll find out without any harm done ) : if your abs pump runs then your pressure switch is knackered. Can't be fixed. Get another off a scrappie and try it.
If you have difficulty getting it off use a jubilee clip tightened round it and tap. ERasire if you undo the three bolts holding the abs pump in place.
