Gazebo
Thanks for that, think I'm gettin somewhere now u mentioned that.
Sometimes I turn the key and nothing as if the battery's flat, then others times it starts first time. I know the spiders working as if I disconnect it I've got nothin.
Do u think a new ignition would sort it.
If the spider is working, it would immobilise the engine, do u still need the key fob near the ignition switch to start the engine.?
 
If the spider is working, it would immobilise the engine, do u still need the key fob near the ignition switch to start the engine.?
Sorry discool, I mean the spider bypass is workin as if I unplug it there's no 12 volt soilenoid supply.
 
I think this problem can afflict a lot of older vehicles particularly depending on how they have been used i.e. lots of miles about the city, stop start/on, off etc, vs lots of long distance miles, so my thinking would be yes, but is it practical? A new swtch may be expensive and may be a bit of a chore to fit, not too sure having never done it.
I do know that the relay idea does work as a relatively cheap and easy solution and have used it to solve voltage drop problems in several old cars, I have previously owned a string of old 6 volt VW Beetles in years gone by, a different version of the same problem, but, the relays activation coil current draw is extremely low and it takes a large percentage of your switching current problems away, I know I said it is not a proper fix but it is what I do to overcome the issue, a "purist" would require a new switch to keep things as original, I just want things to work.............. your choice?.
Gazebo
I'm goin with the relay fix, I can get a ignition switch fairly cheap but never fitted one, an would imagine a nightmare to remove too. I'm not worried bout originality
Like u just need it to work. at the end of the day most of the electrics go through relays anyway. Main thing I need to get rid of the switch caught it with my knee
On the motorway last week not good lol. Thanks for the info all the best.
 

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