S

suburban

Well-Known Member

• Jul 25, 2019

• #1

ok, daughter broke down in the s3 - again - no clutch. Luckily she was only a mile or so from home so we towed her back. Saves waiting a few hours for the breakdown recovery truck.

clutch reservoir empty and fluid in the drivers footwell, also a nice puddle where the slave leak usually is when that goes.

guessing both master and slave are toast?

 

S

suburban

Well-Known Member

• Jul 25, 2019

• #2

I have a spare slave in the box so I could try replacing that and see if it works, if not do the master.

car can be put into gear without engine on

 

steve2286w

Well-Known Member

• Jul 25, 2019

• #3

well at least shes getting used to it by now, sounds like master too, do you but the cheapies or the TRW lucas versions

 

S

suburban

Well-Known Member

• Jul 25, 2019

• #4

steve2286w said:

well at least shes getting used to it by now, sounds like master too, do you but the cheapies or the TRW lucas versions

Click to expand...

never had to do the master before, done the slave a couple of times using either Lockheed or trw, trw seem to last a bit longer. usually buy from dingocroft.

might be worth splashing out for genuine lr see if they are worth the extra moolah

 

steve2286w

Well-Known Member

• Jul 25, 2019

• #5

Masters fiddly, last year I changed mine and months later lost clutch , one of the nuts came off holding it, pedal went to floor as master cylinder moved , I wonder if replacing the fluid helps them last longer as it gets rid of the moisture causing the bore to corrode
LR genuine ones about £70 so about double a TRW might be worth a punt

 

R

rob1miles

Well-Known Member

• Jul 27, 2019

• #6

Probably just msater - the fluid could have run down the pipe and dripped underneath. I just changed the seal in mine but I put the nuts and bolts in the other way round to make it easier.

 

S

suburban

Well-Known Member

• Jul 31, 2019

• #7

well the old one is off and the new is waiting to go on, old one doesn't look terribly healthy. might even be the original as it is a girling with the metal cap

had to order a new master to flexi pipe, totally rounded the fitting trying to get it off, ended up having to take the pedal attachment with cylinder and the pipe off together. got the pipe off the cylinder by undoing the adapter that goes between the pipe and the cylinder. Held the pipe fitting in a vice and a big wrench on the adapter got it free . did toy with making my own pipe or just taking the flare off the end and sticking a new fitting on, as the new pipe was only a tenner I thought sod it, I can wait till tomorrow to finish

 

S

suburban

Well-Known Member

• Aug 1, 2019

• #8

adjusting those nuts on the cylinder shaft that hold the pedal in position is somewhat of a pita. saw a u tube vid where a chap had ground off the rounds of a spanner to give sufficient movement in the space available.

 

S

suburban

Well-Known Member

• Aug 2, 2019

• #9

all done including new pipe, bleed tomorrow when I will have a second pair of hands

 

S

suburban

Well-Known Member

• Aug 3, 2019

• #10

operational again

looks like the slave was ok

 

J

JJKM

Member

• Aug 4, 2019

• #11

Looks good, nice clean up, too. I've owned 6 series landies and had to do this job on all of them. Hope you avoided the blue box

 

S

suburban

Well-Known Member

• Aug 5, 2019

• #12

JJKM said:

Looks good, nice clean up, too. I've owned 6 series landies and had to do this job on all of them. Hope you avoided the blue box

Click to expand...

thx, went with trw for the master and the replacement pipe was bearmach who are only a distributor so no idea who made it, but if the pipe doesn't last I will knock up my own using the unions.

 

J

JJKM

Member

• Aug 5, 2019

• #13

Despite having been stung by Bearmach parts, I did replace a full set of brake pipes from them and they have actually been very good. They have some sort of coating that seems to slow corrosion.