hughandjen

Active Member
Hi guys
Just bought a 1999 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.6.
She has only done 98k miles and had a Turner engine rebuild in 2016. the car has only done 2k miles since but has been unused for nearly a year.
She had an oil change 2 years ago with 10/40 semi synth but has done few miles since.
I drove it home 300 miles and she performed very well indeed. 23mpg and good power.
Few electric glitches which I will sort out but my question today is:-
There is quite a tappet noise when cold and still when warm.
Do you think this will go if I change the oil and if so what oil do you suggest?
Thanks in advance
 
Hi guys
Just bought a 1999 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.6.
She has only done 98k miles and had a Turner engine rebuild in 2016. the car has only done 2k miles since but has been unused for nearly a year.
She had an oil change 2 years ago with 10/40 semi synth but has done few miles since.
I drove it home 300 miles and she performed very well indeed. 23mpg and good power.
Few electric glitches which I will sort out but my question today is:-
There is quite a tappet noise when cold and still when warm.
Do you think this will go if I change the oil and if so what oil do you suggest?
Thanks in advance

Oil and filter change certainly worth a try. I'd be running 20/50 in the v8.
 
20W/50 and if you can find it in your part of the world a tube of Molybond 2.5 which is essentially a molybdenum disulphide additive which works wonders on sticky and noisy lifters.
 
Oil and filter change certainly worth a try. I'd be running 20/50 in the v8.
The car had a replacement Turner engine in 2016 and brand new cylinder heads with ancillary parts in 2018. It’s hardly done any miles since. Would you still use 20/w50 on a nearly new engine?
Thanks
 
The car had a replacement Turner engine in 2016 and brand new cylinder heads with ancillary parts in 2018. It’s hardly done any miles since. Would you still use 20/w50 on a nearly new engine?
Thanks

Yes, for the v8 I would. Have you got RAVE downloaded? All fluids and capacities are in there.

I change oil and filters every 5k miles and I am a little blasé about the brand of oil that goes in. @Henry_b is a bit more specific and recommends one with a high ZDDP content. Go too high and it kills the catalytic converter.
 
Yep 20w50 VR1 is ideal for the V8..

It is a 1960's V8 in 1990s clothing, so yes it needs thicker oil than you'd usually expect.

That is if you want the cam to last ;)
 
Another question
The air suspension appears to work ok but should the compressor run on and off all the time. It stops for a few seconds and starts again!!!
Thanks
 
Another question
The air suspension appears to work ok but should the compressor run on and off all the time. It stops for a few seconds and starts again!!!
Thanks
Take the air valve block exhaust filter off a see it I keeps blowing off. Watch the height of the vehicle also. If it lifts and falls on either axle then there could be a leak in the system or a faulty height sensor.
 
Take the air valve block exhaust filter off a see it I keeps blowing off. Watch the height of the vehicle also. If it lifts and falls on either axle then there could be a leak in the system or a faulty height sensor.
Sorry bit confused can you elaborate (new to the world of LR)
 
Ah thanks

Thanks I’ll check that tomorrow
If I had an leaky air bag would the car drop overnight?

With the EAS delay relay in it will level the car to the lowest corner and you'll find it on the bumpstops after a day sitting..

If you remove the delay relay it stops the auto levelling and you should be able to track down which one is leaking
 
With the EAS delay relay in it will level the car to the lowest corner and you'll find it on the bumpstops after a day sitting..

If you remove the delay relay it stops the auto levelling and you should be able to track down which one is leaking
Thanks that’s a big help
 

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