Hello,
I have a Freelander TD4 es on an 02 reg and I'm experiencing problems with it starting. The problem was intermittent before xmas now it seems terminal and I'm not sure what to do.
I drove it to work the other day with no problems. It started lovely at home, but when I went to leave work it would have non of it. and just keeps turning over and over. I called the AA who were unable to diagnose the problem but did tell me there was no diesel getting to the injectors. He also said that there was no diesel in the clear pot at the rear of the engine. I'm not entirely sure as to what the pot is I persume it is something to do with the leak off system.
He said he thought it was the pump. I have looked at it today and the pump under the fuse box is making a noise when the ignition is on. but I'm not sure what to check after this. I have looked for the high pressure pump by following the lines but can't seem to find it. I would be really grateful if anyone has some advice for a novice on where to look. I'm determined to try and fix this myself before having to shell out loads of dosh.
I was planning on buying a haynes manual this week to help me out but was wondering if there was anything like it I could down load from the internet that any body advises.

Thanks

First thing, with ignition on check for a buzzing of the Low Pressure fuel pump under the rear offside wheel arch. I had same symptoms as yourself and the LP pump is known to fail around 70K + miles.
Next, if no buzzing noise, give the wheel arch to the front of the tyre (where pump is located) a few taps to see if pump is just sticking.

Pump is approx £140 and its recommended to change the inline filter above it at same time. I'm told a comparable BMW one cost £25 off Ebay! Apparently its easy enough to get at pump by removing wheel and peeling back the plastic. That will save you about £250 for testing and labour!!!

Thanks for that I will have a look tomorrow morning and let you know how I get on.

Thanks again

Q, is there a manual I could download?
A, There's a LR manual you can download rave disk download - Google Search

Not sure the AA geezer knew what he was doing????

Clear pot at rear of engine?? Can't think what he was looking at he could have been looking at the vent for the boost control solenoid!

If you have a fuel pump and filter under the bonnet next to the fusebox then the other fuel pump is combined with the fuel sender in the fuel tank. To access this remove the round plate beneath the rear seat. Check if you can hear this one running when the ignition is first turned on.

This afternoon I have removed the plate under the rear seat. turned the ignition on and no buzzing is coming from the tank. I couldn't see any bolt or screws for the unit so is it a tank out job? Anyone have any ideas regarding cost?

Hi, you will need to unscrew the castellated ring. I have attached an explanation from a previous post when I removed my in tank pump.

Re: Changing In tank Fuel Pump TD4

Before you remove the ring disconnect the two fuel lines and the electrical plug.

I have just removed my pump to check the filters. I first marked the position of the ring with Tippex. Using a large flat bladed screwdriver, I tapped the raised pieces on the ring using a heavy hammer on the back of the screwdriver in an anti-clockwise direction. I went from side to side to even out the force. Remove ring and lift out pump.There is a canister at the base of the pump which is full of fuel, so have a large container ready! (if you tip the pump from the vertical it will spill out). Be careful not to catch the float for the fuel level sender when withdrawing the pump.
The sealing ring will need to be inserted into the tank before the new pump is replaced, as the sealing ring has a lip on its underside. Then put the pump in the sealing ring. Tighten up the ring until the marks line up.

The reason for the Tippex was to tighten the ring to the same position, but if you are replacing the pump, the start of the thread will be different, ( I presume) so you will have to gague the amount to tighten the ring. It may be best to buy a new sealing ring at the same time.
When you start looking at pump prices, you will find a huge variation. Suggest you stay with an OEM (original equipment manufacturer) part to maintain reliability.

Part no. of pump WFX 500070 This pump has extra connection for the Fuel Burning Heater, but was capped off on mine as I do not have one!

Best of luck.

Eric.

Sometimes the pump will start with a knock while ignition is on. It is held in place with a locking ring. You should be able to release/turn by tapping it around.
As I said there is only a pump here if you have an LP pump with filter under the bonnet.

I tried tapping while the ignition was on but no joy. I will remove the offending pump tomorrow and hopefully fit the new one in a couple of days. Thanks again for all your kind words of wisdom I really do appreciate it.
Mick

I bought the new pump today and installed with no problems. As soon as I turned the key the pump buzzed. Started straight away. Thanks again for all the advice and help, I now realise how attached to this truck I am. I think I may have caught the land rover bug.