Hi all, I've so chuffed to have found such a great site as I love my '96 HSE which I just got this week, but help dealing with its 'personality' is much appreciated!!

I've got some problems that I've not found solutions for in this site, please help as I just can't find solutions! I am not very good at cars, although quite tehnically minded & feel motivated to try with the RR.

1) Whilst I'm driving, there is a periodic noise coming from the engine which sounds like a motor whining for about 3-4 seconds. It will come on whether the engine is running or not. I have heard it with the bonnet open and I think it might be coming from a motor attached to a black dome which all seems to be connected to a DOT4 brake fluid resevoir. Is this noise normal and OK?
2) The radio will not accept the code after a battery change. I have got the code, but in the manual it says you should press 1, and then use the tuning buttons to select the right digit and press 1 again to store the digit. Repeat for the whole code. I cannot change the digit from 1 using the tuning buttons, no buttons will work other than digits 1-6. I can enter the code using these digits, but the radio just locks then. I then have to pull power and wait ages until I can try again (and press BND when turning on radio). This is driving me mad as I really want the radio!! pls help!
3) Various electrics not working such as cruise control, trip computer (and any other computer functions available from 'i' button on stalk), fog lamps and most worrying I suddenly cannot open the fuel lid!!!! I have read this could be to do with the BeCM under the drivers seat, but it also said there could be a problem with the main fuse box in the engine compartment that could look like BeCM. Does anyone have any experience with this and know where I can buy a fuse box to try?

THANKS VERY MUCH!!!!!!!!

On my '95 HSE with the original ICE head (controls CD changer etc), the radio code is input direct using the preset buttons 1-6. i.e. code 1234 is input directly "1", "2", "3", "4", no tuning buttons to press or confirmation button.

Stephen

Thanks Stephen, it confirms my worry that I have the wrong code for the radio, at least I seem to be doing it right! cheers

oh, by the way. I read loads about the RR problems on various websites last night (www.rangerover.net is also an EXCELLENT! reference site for those who want to try DIY fixes!). I have now managed to fix the fuel switch (mechanical fault) and I think I've repaired the cruise control with a new rubber tube.

I have also found out that the whirring noise in my first question is related to some broken tubing that was connected to the top of the engine and then back into the head (? - sure this must be wrong terminology). The tube had a big rip in it and the connection at the other end has this plastic pole with about 4 thick disks on it's body. It appears to be some sort of valve that was completely seized and had a lot of black deposit on it. I cleaned this up and lubricated it and am about to get some rubber tubing to replace it and see just what it does!! No idea as to it's function, but should stop the whirring noise I hope... any thoughts??? thanks all!

as there are only six buttons and 4 digits, presumably the no. of possible codes is SOMETHING like 6*6*6*6 i.e. slightly less than 1300, so it wouldn't be impossible to try a few each day and get the right one eventually. An easier way would be to ask a friendly LR dealer (they do exist!).My local one provided the radio code after I acquired my P38 (not from the LR dealer) and the alarm code. The alarm code (known as the EKA code, 4 figures and distinct from the radio code) is a very useful to know as it can disarm the engine immobiliser should the alarm fob malfunction (not an uncommon event in my experience). It's input through a sequence of driver's door locks and unlocks - see the owner's manual for details.

The whiring sound is the ABS pump topping up the pressure in the resovoir (round thing) and is quite normal. It should operate for about 20 to 30 seconds when you first start up after leaving it overnight, and then after every 2 - 5 presses of the brake pedal.- also could be the air suspension pump topping up the air resovoir, but these are much quieter. Electrical problems, always check the connections in the main fuse/ relay holder under the bonnet first. These are notorious for causing gremlins, a mechanic friend who knows his P38 say he recomends fitting new ones at 6 years old to prevent a lot of the problems that come up with electrical systems.

The whining noise is almost certainly the air suspension. They get noisy when the rubber grommets wear and therefore don't do their job correctly.