G

gt4thug

New Member
Hi

New to the Freelander as only had it a week.... we have a Mk1 1.8 petrol 5door which when we bought had rattle / clunk from rear of the vehicle, more on the inside than a part of the suspension etc as reading up its normally the diff mount but it sounds more like a resonance and a trim around rear driver / tailgate... is this normal / what usually gives...

thats just a niggle compared to today the rear tailgate window decided to go up and down up and down when i thought i had shut it, then it finally closed.

when i got back i noticed the door had not sealed and the window was outside the trim at the top, and when i went to drop to seal it the rear 'open tailgate' red icon shows and it beeps... and all i hear is a noise of cable reeling in but no motion.. is there any way to either seal it / drop it down as at present if it rains it will rain in the boot, or see whats given up

any ideas.... oh and the reversing lights have now given the ghost ...think they call it character, so all help appreciated

Cheers!
 
Welcome to the forum.

Have a look at the rear diff, front mount. Wobble it up/down like this to see if it faulty:

Land Rover Freelander 1 2001 v6 Centre Diff Mount Fail - YouTube

If you want the tailgate window to drop then disconnect the engine bay battery. Then reconnect the battery. Tailgate will now fully drop. With the tailgate closed press the button inside to put the tailgate window to the top. This is required to calibrate the window position so it knows where it is.

If yer window won't go up then open the tailgate and remove the internal plastic cover thing so you can get to the window mechanism. Be careful when cutting the membrane internal cover. Do it right and yer can tape it up to reuse.

Pic's ere: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/freelander-tailgate-locked.69495/

Electrical wires come oft the switch on the manual gearbox which causes loss of reverse lights.
 
Last edited:
right ordered a reversing switch, and whilst looking i'm getting the clutch master / slave from same company as a fix too as i thought i'd bleed it and find its a self bleed...

now the main pain...

windows!!!!

cable has snapped on the lower to passenger rear, so guess I'm re cabling that

BUT!

the tailgate is right up and over the lip of the seal, is there any way of dropping it manually the 1cm i need ? I've tried the battery and no joy, and help appreciated
 
If the tailgate window won't drop, it is or should be possible to push the top of the glass under the top seal before the door is closed. This will stop the rain getting in but it is a "get you home" bodge. However opening the tailgate again is a pain, with the possibility of damaging the window channel. For this reason, I'd take the boot trim off first so getting the window open again by releasing the cable.
 
daft question... which one is the release and am i using the old fashioned piece of wood to wedge till the cable arrives ?

thanks guys
 
If the rear window is stuck fully up - presumably that means the door will not open? So you'll have to sort if from inside before the door will open.
 
no, it has raised and the door is open so it will close but not seal, hence i need to drop it a little to seal as British Weather is now again upon us.... and the top is out of the seal, resting on the trim :(
 
fixed the regulator today took 3 attempts for the control unit to stop dropping and not returning, only grace i have is the fact i bought for the extra £15 a built up regulator and not tried to rebuild my old one

the reversing switch what a quirky glitchy thing that is , had to put a spacer washer on it to stop the "always on" but thats fixed so i have reversing an a drop down tailgate window and more the point its weather proof again!

replaced the clutch master / slave and a pedal is back ( found 2 repairs on the system so i gather thats where tight wad previous owner had quick fixed)

only issue now HDC light on ... but thats my next post
 
Since I just went through the HDC (one amigo) foes, and several sleepless nights, I think I can offer an advice (and I learned this from "Hippo" and "Nodge68" so I am not THAT smart!).

BEFORE you drive yourself crazy, and before you try anything else, get yourself a good electrical contact cleaner in the spray bottle (DO NOT use lubricants of ANY kind, especially WD40!!), and disconnect the negative lead off the battery. Open the barrel connectors, and really WASH them with that stuff. Stuff is VERY flamable, so be carefull. It evaporates quickly, and when dry, reconnect the barrels, and battery.

This worked for me. Little amber Hippo! drove me nuts.

While you are waiting for the stuff to dry, you can connect the neg lead to the poss side of the battery (it won't reach, so I just bridge them with a long scredriver). There is no need to disconnect the poss lead, but you can. If you want to disconnect the poss too, just cross BOTH leads with aligator clips, or such (make SURE there is connection to the battery!!). This will do "hard reset on all computers, discharge all capacitors, and wipe out all codes.

If your HDC comes back, you should check the brake switch, and go from there.

Since I am not the luckiest guy in the world, I did not listen to this GREAT advice from others, and I went on replacing the brake switch first, and host of other things. I washed the barrels last! (dumb I know) I just couldn't believe the solution could be so simple, especially when barrels looked squeaky clean to the naked eye.

Good luck.
 
Danielsand said:
Since I just went through the HDC (one amigo) foes, and several sleepless nights, I think I can offer an advice (and I learned this from "Hippo" and "Nodge68" so I am not THAT smart!).

BEFORE you drive yourself crazy, and before you try anything else, get yourself a good electrical contact cleaner in the spray bottle (DO NOT use lubricants of ANY kind, especially WD40!!), and disconnect the negative lead off the battery. Open the barrel connectors, and really WASH them with that stuff. Stuff is VERY flamable, so be carefull. It evaporates quickly, and when dry, reconnect the barrels, and battery.

This worked for me. Little amber Hippo! drove me nuts.

While you are waiting for the stuff to dry, you can connect the neg lead to the poss side of the battery (it won't reach, so I just bridge them with a long scredriver). There is no need to disconnect the poss lead, but you can. If you want to disconnect the poss too, just cross BOTH leads with aligator clips, or such (make SURE there is connection to the battery!!). This will do "hard reset on all computers, discharge all capacitors, and wipe out all codes.

If your HDC comes back, you should check the brake switch, and go from there.

Since I am not the luckiest guy in the world, I did not listen to this GREAT advice from others, and I went on replacing the brake switch first, and host of other things. I washed the barrels last! (dumb I know) I just couldn't believe the solution could be so simple, especially when barrels looked squeaky clean to the naked eye.

Good luck.
Click to expand...

OP has a 1.8 manual (stick shift) so there will be no automatic gearbox barrel connectors on the vehicle.
 
Danielsand said:
While you are waiting for the stuff to dry, you can connect the neg lead to the poss side of the battery (it won't reach, so I just bridge them with a long scredriver). There is no need to disconnect the poss lead, but you can. If you want to disconnect the poss too, just cross BOTH leads with aligator clips, or such (make SURE there is connection to the battery!!). This will do "hard reset on all computers, discharge all capacitors, and wipe out all codes.
Click to expand...

Will this reset the gearbox adaptation settings?
 
Epicuser said:
Will this reset the gearbox adaptation settings?
Click to expand...

I am new to Freelander. But I know it will reset the gearbox on Jaguars (I've done it MANY times). I did the "hard reset" on Hippo, but I didn't feel any difference in the shift points, because I am not familiar with the vehicle. I have less than 200 miles total in the Freelander.
 
the scraping metallic noise sorted.... chassis rail and blind bolt issue

HDC... still to sort, but full MOT non the less and no noises, rest will be a 'rainy day ' project cheers guys i would of missed the dropped drivers front subframe bolt and now its all fixed a happy other half :)

thanks!
 
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