GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
Love getting a box of parts like that
Novice_27
Member
Ggggrrrrrrr
Been under the freelander and there is NO SUMP GUARD. As I look up all I see is sump and transfer box. Not sure if there is meant to be one. It’s a 2004 TD4 and I recon someone chucked it.
I am NEVER EVER EVER putting it in a garage EVER AGAIN (except for the things I cannot do of course)
Been under the freelander and there is NO SUMP GUARD. As I look up all I see is sump and transfer box. Not sure if there is meant to be one. It’s a 2004 TD4 and I recon someone chucked it.
I am NEVER EVER EVER putting it in a garage EVER AGAIN (except for the things I cannot do of course)
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
Its probably not to uncommon.
Mine's a right pain to refit and sometimes I don't bother. I don't think it is much of a "guard", its definitely not going to stop a rock taking out your sump. I think its mainly a noise control device and oil catcher! Having said that, I always regret not putting it back on when I'm on a gravel road.
If you get one from a breakers yard make sure its from a similar year you yours as they changed at least once during production - probably safest making sure you get one from a TD4 as well as I think there may have been different ones for different exhaust routes/heat protection. Make sure you get all the fixing bolts as well if the frame @Danyou mentions is missing - there will be at least 6 'big' bolts (2 on each 'side' and 2 at the front) and 2 smaller ones (at the back screwing into the subframe). Mine has 8 big bolts (4 at the front), 2 small bolts and 2 screws (fixing to the valance) but I'm running an older L Series.
Mine's a right pain to refit and sometimes I don't bother. I don't think it is much of a "guard", its definitely not going to stop a rock taking out your sump. I think its mainly a noise control device and oil catcher! Having said that, I always regret not putting it back on when I'm on a gravel road.
If you get one from a breakers yard make sure its from a similar year you yours as they changed at least once during production - probably safest making sure you get one from a TD4 as well as I think there may have been different ones for different exhaust routes/heat protection. Make sure you get all the fixing bolts as well if the frame @Danyou mentions is missing - there will be at least 6 'big' bolts (2 on each 'side' and 2 at the front) and 2 smaller ones (at the back screwing into the subframe). Mine has 8 big bolts (4 at the front), 2 small bolts and 2 screws (fixing to the valance) but I'm running an older L Series.
Danyou
Well-Known Member
I think I read somewhere on here the facelift has some more fixings around the bumper area,don’t know if it would be a problem getting one off a pre facelift to fit as I have never taken mine off yet as someone decided to cut a hole in it for oil changes.
ian mitchell
Well-Known Member
a female work colleague took her freelander to a local garage .52 plate td4 .for a new cat.
and a prop bearing. yes only one .she said it knocks when turning left or right so I had a look.the rear mount is new the front
had collapsed .so she took it back .he told her he packed it with silicone and it was fine.charged her just over 400 quid
is it possible to split prop on car .or would it have to come off .if so I dont understand why both weren't replaced at same time.
and also makes me think that certain garages think women are thick;and fob them off with any old b******t sorry for the long post.
and a prop bearing. yes only one .she said it knocks when turning left or right so I had a look.the rear mount is new the front
had collapsed .so she took it back .he told her he packed it with silicone and it was fine.charged her just over 400 quid
is it possible to split prop on car .or would it have to come off .if so I dont understand why both weren't replaced at same time.
and also makes me think that certain garages think women are thick;and fob them off with any old b******t sorry for the long post.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
I should think you could split the props on the car - undo which ever end from the diff or IRD and separate from VCU. You'd need a hub puller capable of getting the bearing off though when the VCU is still on the car and some way of supporting the VCU. All ways up though, it would be easier to remove the complete assembly I'd have thought to split the props or pull/push the bearing.
You would think that anyone doing a "proper" job would replace both bearings at the same time.... unless of course you were looking forward to issuing a 2nd £400 invoice!
ian mitchell
Well-Known Member
thanks for the reply .I never had to remove the prop on my fl1 as both bearings on mine were ok.so I didn't really know.
she believes because she is a woman and knows nothing about cars she may be taken advantage of .
he also has a Peugeot 308cc petrol of hers that he replaced a turbo on six months ago at a cost of 900 quid and has used 7ltrs of oil since. lifted bonnet and oil everywhere
he says he didn't have anything to do with that part of engine.also now rattles on top end .and has told her it is the variator for the vvt.
she is now looking at more expense.thanks for having time to read this post. p.s garage in wrose Shipley but don't know name.
she believes because she is a woman and knows nothing about cars she may be taken advantage of .
he also has a Peugeot 308cc petrol of hers that he replaced a turbo on six months ago at a cost of 900 quid and has used 7ltrs of oil since. lifted bonnet and oil everywhere
he says he didn't have anything to do with that part of engine.also now rattles on top end .and has told her it is the variator for the vvt.
she is now looking at more expense.thanks for having time to read this post. p.s garage in wrose Shipley but don't know name.
Hippo
Lord Hippo
Tell her to tw** him with her hand bag. She needs to go to another garage.
I can't say all garages are a rip oft as that would be unfair and unjustified. But sadly there are some who will take a chance. If she feels she's being ripped oft due to being female she should take someone else with her.
It's possible to disconnect props/vcu etc whilst still on the car but it's far easier to do on the bench/floor with it taken oft in one piece. If left hanging in bits on the car you can put too much pressure on the joints, causing damage.
ian mitchell
Well-Known Member
thanks for the reply Hippo. i will tell her what u said.but she wont need a bag .probably just punch him.lol
Novice_27
Member
Hi
I’m not able to look under atm but I have had a look on google images and I have none of it. To be honest I’m probably going to leave it. It’s main duties are snow and ice and getting off car boot fields
Might end up buying a bleedin’ donor car at this rate he he
I’m not able to look under atm but I have had a look on google images and I have none of it. To be honest I’m probably going to leave it. It’s main duties are snow and ice and getting off car boot fields
Might end up buying a bleedin’ donor car at this rate he he
Novice_27
Member
Yes I think that they are probably too nice to break. Having looked there are a few things that I know I will not do
Novice_27
Member
Started the service eek!
Well what a day. Got under the bonnet and there were so many bits and bobs wrong that I shall not bore you. Got as far as changing the crank case filter and refitting it.
I am shocked at the amount of black crap in the air intakes never mind the intake housing. I tried vacuuming it out but it’s quite solid. I cannot do too much hacking as the crap will drop into the engine. Mrs. N (pink glove wearer) has come up with a plan involving sponge rolled up tight and carefully lowered in with large tweezers, then it will expand and effectively block the inlet while I clean the crud away from the top part. I’m never going to get it all but it will be a good start.
Going to leave it a while I need a few parts to come that I lost along the way he he
The engine must of been crying for air. See images
Well what a day. Got under the bonnet and there were so many bits and bobs wrong that I shall not bore you. Got as far as changing the crank case filter and refitting it.
I am shocked at the amount of black crap in the air intakes never mind the intake housing. I tried vacuuming it out but it’s quite solid. I cannot do too much hacking as the crap will drop into the engine. Mrs. N (pink glove wearer) has come up with a plan involving sponge rolled up tight and carefully lowered in with large tweezers, then it will expand and effectively block the inlet while I clean the crud away from the top part. I’m never going to get it all but it will be a good start.
Going to leave it a while I need a few parts to come that I lost along the way he he
The engine must of been crying for air. See images
Bute
Member
Impact wrench worked a treat on the stuck brake calipers bolts. Did them back up till I have some energy.
Attempted to undo wheel nuts with extended bar.
Pulled back, or ruptured kidney if I was being dramatic
Hurts to cough, sneeze & sit & hayfever sneezes are agony.
Why didn't I use impact wrench =.=
Attempted to undo wheel nuts with extended bar.
Pulled back, or ruptured kidney if I was being dramatic
Hurts to cough, sneeze & sit & hayfever sneezes are agony.
Why didn't I use impact wrench =.=
Colthebrummie
Well-Known Member
Do you have a well trimmed beard and are fond of wearing tight trousers and no socks by any chance?
Col
