G

gazss

New Member
:) hi everybody, brand new to freelanders and this forum and sorry already looking for help:D please. just got a 1.8 freelander that had already had the head gasket done :) but when i checked they hadnt topped up the antifreeze so went ahead and drained and refilled following the advice on freelandy releasing the two valves but upon checking the inlet relief valve as directed became confused as the valve seems to work in reverse you can blow into the head thought it should of been the opposite and also now having trouble with the temp gauge having a mind of its own and the expansion bottle filling with coolant when it gets hot. i changed the thermostat when i replaced the coolant and have since replaced the temp sensor, there is no water in the oil or oil in water and no white smoke :confused::confused: please please help
 
there is a precise method to be followed when bleeding the K series engine - download the rave or :search: on here.
Follow the instructions EXACTLY.

:eek::eek::eek::dnfnoob:
 
hi followed instructions in threads and found the answer to the intake bleed valve question, just seams odd to blow into a relief valve:doh: coolant still not right been told to look at the water pump, any advice on checking the correct operation :)
 
RAVE is the dealer workshop CD which covers the entire range of late Rover/MG/Land Rover models. You can buy a genuine copy from XPart. Some people buy pirate copies of the CD, which personally I don't condone but it happens.
 
If you are experiencing coolant loss and there are no obvious signs around the unit, have a butchers at the engine undertray to see if it looks wet, and from there have a look round the bottom of the cambelt cover. Using some tracer dye helps a lot.

The water pump can fail and it's a good idea to change it when doing the cambelt, saves time stripping that side of the block down. Inlet manifold gasket can also be at fault for coolant leaks.

Not intending to depress you any further but unless you have the paperwork for it don't necessarily believe it's had a new cylinder head gasket change, or that it's been done correctly using the MLS version and the stronger oil rail underneath. Oh, and the heads sometimes can go porous, although a new core one ain't too dear at the mo.
 
many thanks for all the wise words everyone. i have just finnished changing the cambelt and the water pump, the vanes fell out when i pulled the old pump off, i hope this explains the coolant loss, i figure that the pump must of been working at low revs but not gripping at high so as soon as i dropped the revs back the temp gauge dropped. going to look at the head gasket next but will probably wait till the new year and better weather. i would like to give my appreciation to this forum and its members there help and advice is invaluable to beginners many thanks :):)
 
Good to hear you've got that job done. It's not too bad a job if a touch fiddly at times due to access. Keep an really sharp eye on the coolant level from now on - literally every trip if you can for the tme being - and fingers crossed you've sorted it out. Stupid question but you have used the correct OAT anti-freeze?

Also, it might be cold outside but if your engine oil isn't fresh then change it, the low temperatures mean the engine needs good healthy oil instead of knackered sheared up stuff.
 
yes used the correct anti-freeze and i have just changed the oil and filter to so hopefully all will be well but thanks for the advice and yes i will keep a good eye on the coolant levels so far all is fine and it drives great in the snow.
 
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