D

DMW

New Member
Hello everyone

I have just created an account, i am thinking of buying a P38 diesel with good spec.

Can anyone advise or offer guidance on what i should be aware of, look for, possible pitfalls or what model is best to seek?

I understand that older models may need attention, but i am looking for a fairly painless initiation into ownership.

Many thanks
 
DMW said:
Hello everyone

I have just created an account, i am thinking of buying a P38 diesel with good spec.

Can anyone advise or offer guidance on what i should be aware of, look for, possible pitfalls or what model is best to seek?

I understand that older models may need attention, but i am looking for a fairly painless initiation into ownership.

Many thanks
Click to expand...


:welcome2:

There is no such thing as painless p38 ownership i am afraid ;)
Do a search at the top of the page for p38 buyers checklist,i think.
 
You might also want to stick some sort of location in your details. A chat with a local owner might be worthwhile.
 
Post 2000 model year are better, but the P38 is not a car, it's a hobby. If you have no mechanical or electrical knowledge or the ability to learn it will bankrupt you going to dealers to get it fixed.
 
However if you are willing to put in the time and work, then they can be great :) [there is a large differing of opinion on that matter around here though...]
 
Agree on a post 2000 model - dHSE had all the toys...

They seem slow, but they just have an odd throttle travel and response - plenty perky enough when prodded...

Golden Rule - Never Ever buy a Range Rover with faults not matter what the seller says, unless you know what is involved and how ,uch it will cost to fix...

Echo Datatek - Time to learn how things work and how to fix else they will cripple you!
 
I agree with most of the above. These cars are definitely a hobby first and transport second. Most things on them are fairly easy to fix though, for example I've just done the heater o-rings which is a very common problem. Easy but time consuming. I'd shudder to think how much an independent would charge to replace them. Basically, as long as you don't mind getting your hands dirty once in a while you should be fine.

Finding a decent P38 in the first place however is difficult. Most of the ones I looked at were a state with numerous faults, battered bodywork and shabby interiors. I almost gave up but found a nice low mileage 4.0 SE in the end. As they are cheap cars in the first place you don't really want to spend your weekends driving round the country looking at endless examples. Well I didn't anyway. Good luck!
 
go with your head, not your heart.

read all you can on here. dont just think there are diesels on offer.

listen, take criticism, dont bad mouth any of the knowledge here, and you will enjoy it.

always remember there is a search function and use it well, its your friend, its there to help.

do a checklist, follow it, stick to it, then expect the unexpected.

join the AA or RAC ASAP!

but above all, drive it, use it, enjoy it and welcome to the world of RR!
 
Agree with sas1810, don't dismiss petrol (LPG converted) will give you similar running costs to diesel....there are mixed opinions about this on here.
Search for the common points to check & check these. Dont take the sellers BS over faults...walk away.
Oh, & whatever your budget is for purchase, i would have at least a 1/3rd contingency fund for the unexpected (it will become expected as you get into P38 ownership). Remember the P38 doesn't tolerate missed servicing. A good history is essential (i found out the hard way).
Enjoy!
 
Agree with all the above. I bought my first p38 about a year ago, and I have to confess, I did no research and really bought with no clue what I was getting (despite being around landys for years).

I got lucky, I bought a 2000 4.6 with an LPG already fitted, which (shhh in case she hears me) has been pretty good (18,000 miles in a year and no major issues (shhh)).

The only real problem I've had with it was my of own making, and the guys on here were brilliant at helping sort it.

They are more than a hobby though, they end up as part of the family!! Even my missus is starting to learn about them now (not sure that's her choice though!!).

Would I still have bought one knowing what I now know??

Hell Yes!!

Enjoy :)

Marc
 
martynv8 said:
Agree with sas1810, don't dismiss petrol (LPG converted) will give you similar running costs to diesel....there are mixed opinions about this on here.
Search for the common points to check & check these. Dont take the sellers BS over faults...walk away.
Oh, & whatever your budget is for purchase, i would have at least a 1/3rd contingency fund for the unexpected (it will become expected as you get into P38 ownership). Remember the P38 doesn't tolerate missed servicing. A good history is essential (i found out the hard way).
Enjoy!
Click to expand...

Diesels don't drop liners LPG'd V8's do. A cracked head (rare) on a diesel is much cheaper and easier to fix than a slipped liner (common) on a V8:)
 
had mine over a year now, read,asked on here etc, i wanted a classic-but finding a nice diesel classic was too hard i looked for ages- in fact could not even find 1 , no matter what condition-in reasonable have alook distance

so got a p38 ! looked at a few, found my one and got a bargain really, also been to look at a few with a mate who was after one

best advice is this- go see ALL local ones, no matter what the add/pics/price, are, just go along have a good look around, drive it, then, even its auto/manual and you want the other, or wrong color etc etc , just go see it,see as many local ones as possible, walk away, then this will just give you a good feel about them,youl see whats good and bad etc, and when THE ONE is there in front of you, youl know it !

they do break at times,you need to look after them properly, keep up with servicing etc etc, but for all the aggro at times- when they are running spot on and no issues...you love it !!! brings a real smile and king of the road feeling
 
Told you there would be mixed opinions on here ref diesel / petrol! Having had TDV6 's previously i found the 2.5TD sluggish & very 'agricultural'. Down to personal preference & what your after at the end of the day.
A good cooling system will help with a V8 as they run on the verge of overheating as standard. But Datatek is right, slipped liners are a gamble with V8's unless you can find one with top hat liners fitted.
What ever you go for the guys on here are full of advice & info when you get stuck.
 
Stick with diesel,you want some history with it and the least owners the better if you tow get an auto if you don't go for manuel ...
 
Look around, there are a lot on the market so don't buy the first one you come across. Get at least 30 minute test drive in two or three before you even contemplate getting money out.

If you want a good'en there is one going for about 2k in the For Sale section. Needs some work though. :lol:

Also, avoid all Underpigeons. They aren't worth the money and you'll end up wanting to hang yourself within a week of ownership.
 
DMW, I would go straight to an L322. I have had 2 L322s after a 2.5 DHSE and they are so much better in many ways. PM me if you are interested as I am having to sell my fault-free TD6 due to going abroad to work.
 
dolphinboy said:
DMW, I would go straight to an L322. I have had 2 L322s after a 2.5 DHSE and they are so much better in many ways. PM me if you are interested as I am having to sell my fault-free TD6 due to going abroad to work.
Click to expand...
Biased there! Stick it in for sale...
 
dolphinboy said:
DMW, I would go straight to an L322. I have had 2 L322s after a 2.5 DHSE and they are so much better in many ways. PM me if you are interested as I am having to sell my fault-free TD6 due to going abroad to work.
Click to expand...


You can have an L322 with just as many problems as a P38 not to mention more water leaks. The difference is that the electronics are much more complex on the L322 and they are much more expensive to fix, one air spring on the L322 costs as much as a set of 4 on the P38 for example. A decent diagnostic tool for the L322 will cost over £1K against under £400 for the P38.
If it's your first RR, go for a P38, if you can live with the problems and learn to fix it, you can always swap it for an L322 later.
 
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