thebiglad
Well-Known Member
Well that's very good news.
BTW, you've got me curious about something. I keep seeing reference to a 'P' gasket - what is it please and is it possible to check it's condition in situ??
Well that's very good news.
BTW, you've got me curious about something. I keep seeing reference to a 'P' gasket - what is it please and is it possible to check it's condition in situ??
revjames
New Member
The big ally casting that houses the water pump is mounted on the front of the cast iron cylinder block next to the timing case. There is a gasket that sits between the ally casing and the block which is in the shape of a 'P' (do a search) They used to fit paper gaskets originally which have a nasty habit of failing. They can be changed relatively easily by a competent DIYer. If you are losing water and you can see evidence of water leaking behind the alternator down the block chances are its the P gasket.
Pikey
Dummy Ejection Facilitator..
Yeah but no but, yeah but what i said like, but I found a R reg 300tdi argyle model disco 5 door, air con, cruise auto, for £1700 in Oct, mates had it nearly 5 months now and hasn't had any problems with it. So there are cheaper cars out there you just have to be prepared to wait.
thebiglad
Well-Known Member
Yes yes, now I understand. I changed the water pump on my wife's Tdi 200 and changed the gasket at the same time but I didn't realise that that is how they are referred too.
Cheers for that, I'll now go and check it on the 300
thebiglad
Well-Known Member
Unfortunately, I have to report that NO, the sub still doesn't work, but I bought myself an mp3 2gig baladeur to plug into the front of the new head unit, so that's giving me something to play with at the moment.
I checked in the instructions for my radio and it gave no hints on pressing a button to make the sub come alive.
However, you have inspired me to have another go, so...................
revjames
New Member
Yes thats all well and good BUT answer me this. Does it have a auto dipping rear view mirror?
tacr2man
Well-Known Member
go for a late 200tdi or early 300 tdi preferably without the electronic accelerator pedal i.e. there wont be a cable straight from the pedal to the inj pump.
That wayyou wont have to worry about gearbox or clutch probs and the auto goes on for ever (99% of the time)
Look at corrosion under rear floor mat, under the rear door where it bolts body to chassis, inside rear door wheel arches. and front floor footwells .
If you can find a nice one or two owner vehicle you'll be safer
The auto also overcomes the turbo lag problem (waiting for the engine to hit about 1600 rpm before things start to get going with a bit of urgency)
Avoid anything thats been messed about with i.e. raised susp, big offroad tyres etc
Generally they are very reliable esp if they are serviced (by yourself)
reasonably often HTSH
That wayyou wont have to worry about gearbox or clutch probs and the auto goes on for ever (99% of the time)
Look at corrosion under rear floor mat, under the rear door where it bolts body to chassis, inside rear door wheel arches. and front floor footwells .
If you can find a nice one or two owner vehicle you'll be safer
The auto also overcomes the turbo lag problem (waiting for the engine to hit about 1600 rpm before things start to get going with a bit of urgency)
Avoid anything thats been messed about with i.e. raised susp, big offroad tyres etc
Generally they are very reliable esp if they are serviced (by yourself)
reasonably often HTSH
Pikey
Dummy Ejection Facilitator..
No I don't believe it does. However as the fookers all melt and drip all over the dash anyway. That's probably a bonus, one less thing to go wrong and all that.
