Hello,
I do not have much knowledge on Series Land Rovers, but have always been fascinated by them. I have been doing some research and am thinking about purchasing a series 3. My question is how model year affects the prices, as for the same models I have seen huge fluctuations in price and the only difference has been model year but I have been unable to identify a pattern. Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks
Cameron

Cammy17 said:

Hello,
I do not have much knowledge on Series Land Rovers, but have always been fascinated by them. I have been doing some research and am thinking about purchasing a series 3. My question is how model year affects the prices, as for the same models I have seen huge fluctuations in price and the only difference has been model year but I have been unable to identify a pattern. Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks
Cameron

Click to expand...

Answered it in yer intro fred!

Depends how knackered it is. You can get a 90 thats in worse nick than a 2a and the more modern they are the quicker they seem to rot away.
Massive differences in condition depend on how well its been looked after or what its been used for in the past.
Best thing to do is surrender to the fact that its going to cost a fair bit to live with and go for it in the full knowledge when you die some twonk will buy it, put balloon tyres on it and pretend he is Schwarzenegger in a shootemup.

Budget will likely determine what you actually buy but there are some big considerations. If you plan to do the servicing and repairs yourself, it will be a relatively cheap thing to run if you buy carefully. Prices are usually determined by condition...chassis and bulkhead being the big two to look at but also transmission and engine as well. I'm a little weary of some of the restorations as you can source very cheap pattern parts for all areas of the vehicle, most of which probably won't be durable. I always think that a vehicle which has been owned a few years by someone and driven fairly regularly is a safer bet than one which has just been restored with selling on in mind from the outset.

If you plan to have all maintenance and repairs done by a garage, it can get expensive - these are vehicles from the days when running repairs and frequent maintenance were the norm.

I bought a late model Series 3 (post June 1980) as they had stronger 5 bearing engines, better brakes and stronger drive shafts but it's often a case of just finding the right one in the right condition rather than being too specific. The original 2.25 petrol and Diesel engines will probably become more sought after as time passes (think originality) but if it's going to be a daily driver, one with a newer 200di / tdi replacement engine from a newer Land Rover model will help you keep up with modern traffic and junction situations.

If you can find one with a galvanised chassis and possibly a galvanised bulkhead too, you've got a very solid Land Rover with only mechanical and electrical repairs or maintenance to focus on.

Before doing anything else make sure you drive a couple - visit a dealer and get a good test drive. These things do not drive like cars, do not steer like any modern cars, leak water from door seals, usually drop a little oil and smell like an old oily rag on your drive - even the best ones!they are very much an acquired taste and your heart has to be in it.

Thank you. I've got my eye on a swb hard top 1980 model with the original diesel, or so the advertisement says. Have to enquire about it more and will definitely formulate my questions based on what you all have said.

Theyr ruddy brill.....................

Congratulations on your wise decision, series landys are great fun and flipping exasperating at the same time. Mines a 1977 lwb station wagon that will be road tax free next year, that has a bit of a bearing on its worth. Originality also has a bearing as long as all those original bits are in servicable condition. If you find one that has had a replacement (modern) engine, a new chassis, maybe different suspension, it may not be eligible for tax free status when it reaches 40 years of age and there are some crooked sellers trying to flog stuff that's not right.

I have to fully concur with land raver, they are NOT like modern cars to drive and if you buy one that needs a bit of work on the steering and brakes, it will scare you to death when you first drive it. Also, think carefully about buying a diesel. They are noisier than a petrol, very slow and can be problematic if not maintained properly, I know the diesel boys on here will disagree with me but I'd stay clear of a diesel. Good luck with your purchase, it will be one of the few times where you buy a second hand car that will actually appreciate in value rather than depreciate.

Col

X1 on diesel 2.25 they can be fickle to maintain and emissions are important for MOT.

Cammy17 said:

Thank you. I've got my eye on a swb hard top 1980 model with the original diesel, or so the advertisement says. Have to enquire about it more and will definitely formulate my questions based on what you all have said.

Click to expand...

Go and give it a look over. Adverts are an unreliable guide to condition. My Ninety was advertised as having a 200Tdi. I told him it was a 2.5td as soon as I opened the bonnet, and beat him down on the price accordingly!

Colthebrummie said:

Congratulations on your wise decision, series landys are great fun and flipping exasperating at the same time. Mines a 1977 lwb station wagon that will be road tax free next year, that has a bit of a bearing on its worth. Originality also has a bearing as long as all those original bits are in servicable condition. If you find one that has had a replacement (modern) engine, a new chassis, maybe different suspension, it may not be eligible for tax free status when it reaches 40 years of age and there are some crooked sellers trying to flog stuff that's not right.

I have to fully concur with land raver, they are NOT like modern cars to drive and if you buy one that needs a bit of work on the steering and brakes, it will scare you to death when you first drive it. Also, think carefully about buying a diesel. They are noisier than a petrol, very slow and can be problematic if not maintained properly, I know the diesel boys on here will disagree with me but I'd stay clear of a diesel. Good luck with your purchase, it will be one of the few times where you buy a second hand car that will actually appreciate in value rather than depreciate.

Col

Click to expand...

Done a lot of diesel fitting all my working life, and I think LR petrol engines are better too.

John S said:

X1 on diesel 2.25 they can be fickle to maintain and emissions are important for MOT.

Click to expand...

Later ones are slightly better, and emissions should be ok if it isn't too worn, and you have a well serviced fuel system,and change oil and take it for a good long run before the test.

At 1980 you may just get a 5 bearing crank which is a much better engine than the old three bearing job. You have a chance of curing the rear main seal leak on a 5 bearing ! I have never done a three bearing seal that lasted more than 10,000 miles. When you look at the engine a 5 bearing should be painted in terracoter/reddish colour but may have been changed. The real thing to look for is a herringbone pattern cast in to the lower engine block /crankcase sides.
Well set up a diesel is still not as lively as a petrol but the extra 8 or 10 MPG helps.

divie said:

At 1980 you may just get a 5 bearing crank which is a much better engine than the old three bearing job. You have a chance of curing the rear main seal leak on a 5 bearing ! I have never done a three bearing seal that lasted more than 10,000 miles. When you look at the engine a 5 bearing should be painted in terracoter/reddish colour but may have been changed. The real thing to look for is a herringbone pattern cast in to the lower engine block /crankcase sides.
Well set up a diesel is still not as lively as a petrol but the extra 8 or 10 MPG helps.

Click to expand...

True about the crank seals. I think because there is much less crankshaft end float on the 5 bearing engine. Seen em where the clutch wouldn't disengage because it was so bad.

I dont know when s3 started, but we're up to about 1976 on tax exemption now, providing the truck hasnt been messed with too much.

£250 is not many tanks of fuel, but, for someone who does very few miles, its nicer not to have to pay £250 each year.

I like mi diesel. Sounds like a proper trattor not a mamby pamby girly car. The speed freaks don't like em they're only interested in blasting around at 50mph all day.

divie said:

At 1980 you may just get a 5 bearing crank which is a much better engine than the old three bearing job. You have a chance of curing the rear main seal leak on a 5 bearing ! I have never done a three bearing seal that lasted more than 10,000 miles. When you look at the engine a 5 bearing should be painted in terracoter/reddish colour but may have been changed. The real thing to look for is a herringbone pattern cast in to the lower engine block /crankcase sides.
Well set up a diesel is still not as lively as a petrol but the extra 8 or 10 MPG helps.

Click to expand...

The thing is though, 10,000 miles is about 20 years for the average series owner.

Col

Colthebrummie said:

The thing is though, 10,000 miles is about 20 years for the average series owner.

Col

Click to expand...

And that's if their back holds out that long.