Reference your surfing requirement.

Do you have the owners manual? IIRC, Locking with the key is possible with the D2, It should set the alarm but it does not set the internal sensors.

If you have not got a copy of the owners manual, it can be downloaded with the RAVE manual.


Cheers

Thanks, I am in Penzance.
It didn't work after moving guts over and new battery installed. Shame, maybe the RF transmitter on PCB has died.

Either it is kaput or your car may not be programmed to accept it.

Cheers.

Right, think I have found the problem.

One on the right is my working fob PCB. On the left is the one which isn't working. Spot the difference!
I have an RF detector here and it detects RF transmissions from both fobs, so I suspect both are working but the non-working one is pushing out the wrong 6 digit code. I wonder if someone can reassign the 6 digit code, putting the correct one into the non working fob

Hi,
Not sure what you are seeingas a potential reason for it not working??

john snoo said:

but the non-working one is pushing out the wrong 6 digit code. I wonder if someone can reassign the 6 digit code, putting the correct one into the non working fob

Click to expand...

I am not sure what you mean by the key pushing out the wrong code, I think your car is not programmed to accept the key. As I have never heard of the reassigning of a key code inside the fob itself oor the putting of a correct code into the non working fob. Each key has a different 6 digit number on the sticker.

Also, going back to your OP, you say the original owner said it was just for the locks, then I suspect they took an old key and just fitted the blade to use as a spare, which could well mean they never programmed the car to accept the RF signal and the key was never synced to the car.
Cheers

"Not sure what you are seeingas a potential reason for it not working?? - The different 6 digit alphanumeric codes, I assumed that was proof that they are not programmed to TX the same code to the vehicle?
Ah, so every key has a different code, its the CAR that needs programming. Sorry I didn't realise that!

yes its sounding like i have to program the car. The cheapest I have found is this chap - http://www.remotekey.co.uk/land-rover/land-rover-discovery-ii-discovery-series-2-year-1999-to-2006/
Sounds about the best option i think?

Aaah, now I understand your question.

The car needs to be programmed to the key, the car can be programmed for a number of keys. 4 or 6 iirc.

If you use remote keys then they should supply the kit to allow it to be programmed from what I understand, Only thing I do not know is whether your existing key will still work , maybe worth giving them a call and asking. In the nanocom there are different "slots" for different key codes, I do not know how remotekeys system works , so I do not know whether it will overwrite your existing key.

Having the ability to programme a spare key was one of the main reasons I got a nanocom, plus it helps with other diagnostics, unfortunately the price has gone up due to brexit, I got mine during a group discount buy on here.

Cheers

Hi again. I have two problems, one is causing regular breakdowns.

1. Landy keeps overheating. But I don't think it's a leak. After 20-30 minutes driving suddenly the needle rises quickly into the red from normal (half way). I have to pull over as the power drops and obviously it's no good for the engine. I undo the coolant bottle slowly, and water and steam gushes out for a few minutes until I can get it off and pour in around 4+ litres of fresh cold water, which will then give me another 20-30 minutes of driving. I am thinking thermostat, but wondered if any other ideas in here? Here is a pic (the water is also rusty coloured which is worrying maybe?


2. This doesn't affect the driving (that I know of) but I have these three warning lights coming on occasionally. Sometimes it doesn't do it, sometimes it does, seems random. My mechanic had a quick look underneath a few weeks ago and said the air pipes for rear suspension are leaking slightly, could this be the cause of the warning lights?



Any advice greatly appreciated as always

Hello again,

Did you get your key problem sorted?

Regarding the water issue, are you sure the colour is not because it is OAT coolant which is normally pink in colour.
Also, as you are adding plain water the coolant will not work as it should, are you adding coolant / antifreeze to it as well?

Ref the lights , they are known as the 3 amigos, ( if you search for that phrase you will be swamped with info ), you need to get it on a diagnostics to verify what is causing the issue. Have the faults cleared, so you are not looking at historical faults, take it for a drive and then see what you get.

Cheers

john snoo said:

Hi again. I have two problems, one is causing regular breakdowns.

1. Landy keeps overheating. But I don't think it's a leak. After 20-30 minutes driving suddenly the needle rises quickly into the red from normal (half way). I have to pull over as the power drops and obviously it's no good for the engine. I undo the coolant bottle slowly, and water and steam gushes out for a few minutes until I can get it off and pour in around 4+ litres of fresh cold water, which will then give me another 20-30 minutes of driving. I am thinking thermostat, but wondered if any other ideas in here? Here is a pic (the water is also rusty coloured which is worrying maybe?


2. This doesn't affect the driving (that I know of) but I have these three warning lights coming on occasionally. Sometimes it doesn't do it, sometimes it does, seems random. Any advice greatly appreciated as always

Click to expand...

Thermostat, cap, water pump, something is wrong, cooling system shouldn't be doing that, like he says^^^^^^^^^, colour is just the red OAT antifreeze colouring the water.

And, as he says, three amigos, you need to get that sorted before it gets worse.

Thanks, it did look more like Rust to me, I have not put coolant in for the past few times it's done it as I know it will just pour out onto the road again, so it shouldn't have any colour to it.

I will see if I can find someone locally with diagnostics re the 3 amigos. thanks

john snoo said:

Thanks, it did look more like Rust to me, I have not put coolant in for the past few times it's done it as I know it will just pour out onto the road again, so it shouldn't have any colour to it.

I will see if I can find someone locally with diagnostics re the 3 amigos. thanks

Click to expand...

john snoo said:

Thanks, it did look more like Rust to me, I have not put coolant in for the past few times it's done it as I know it will just pour out onto the road again, so it shouldn't have any colour to it.

I will see if I can find someone locally with diagnostics re the 3 amigos. thanks

Click to expand...

That isn't what is causing the issue either, although when it is sorted you should make sure you have the right mix of OAT AF and water.

But at least you are doing a bit of coolant system flushing as you go.

And it might not do any harm to flush the rad while the system is drained as well, get the rust out of that, too!

Might be worth ringing Buryas Bridge garage, see what they suggest about the 3 amigos issue.

Yes I have been to Buryas Bridge once before years ago, they have loads of landies lying around so hopefully they might have the diagnostics I need. Thanks
Re the rad - Well I am going to start with the thermostat and a new pipe (one of them isn't fitted well according to mechanic, been bodged apparently but don't think this is the issue either). Then I will see how it goes, and go from there. It's a pain as I can't use the vehicle properly until it;'s sorted, and I don't like seeing my engine getting that hot even if only for a few minutes! thanks for all the help here

Hi again. Well things are not looking great. I have had so many opinions etc that I am going to ask the real experts in here!
The disco continues to overheat. My mechanic has replaced the thermostat and that has made no difference. Here is what happens...

I drive along steadily for 15-25 minutes, blower in cab is nice and hot as it should be.
The blower goes cold (lukewarm) for around 5 minutes (temp needle still sat on middle where it should be)
Blower then blows very hot, and power drops, temp needle climbs fairly quickly towards the red when I stop.
I then take the expansion tank cap off, under pressure loads of rusty water gushes out, i then pour in around 4-5 litres of fresh cold water.
I then get the same again, 20 mins or so of driving before repeating this procedure.

My mechanic took the car home one night. He said the water system lost around 2-3 pints in 20 miles. He also said "the water system is being pressurised" which he says is a feature of gasket or head problems. I am not 100% convinced of this yet, but that's what he said, and it suggested to him that its a cracked head or head gasket gone. He spoke to a local expert on landies (someone who deals with all disco servicing and problems for a large car sales place). His questions were "has he changed the coolant bottle cap" (yes i have, with a new one). Then he asked the age, mechanic told him 2000, to which he replied "hmm, i have seen a lot of cracked heads on those models, up til around 2003". So various people seem to think this is a head problem, but I am still not convinced. I am open to the possibility of course, but I am still of the opinion it's a circulation problem. I have NO smoke at all, certainly no blue/white stuff. I have NO sign of water in the oil on dipstick, or creaminess anywhere.
Yesterday the car broke down four times in the above pattern. I filmed what happened when I took the cap off, see video :



After the gushing of hot water stopped, i noticed quite a few particles of rust, so took a photo:


My feeling is the next step is to flush the rad and change the water pump. If the car hasn't had coolant used regularly it could have seized the impeller/motor, which could have rusted up. There is clearly plenty of rust in the system.
Does anyone else have any thoughts on the best steps to take, if not the ones I am thinking of?
Thanks very much

That coolant does not look pretty.

One other thing is , had you already loosened your expansion tank cap? as mine is a lot tighter than that.

If you are worried about the head / head gasket being the problem, then I understand you can get the coolant analysed / sniff tested.

Cheers

hi Neilly, sorry I should have said it was only water, no coolant was in there, so yes that "should" be like tap water as thats what went in. I know this isn't ideal but since it only lasts 20 minutes i didn't want to waste OAT!
And yes well spotted, I had already loosened the cap.
Sniff tested - is that by a bloke with a very good nose, or a good machine?!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal...el-engines-original-leak-tester-/181059430832

As an idea.

Cheers

If that was just water in there, then that system needs a damn good flush........ a couple of times.

Plus, you could well be right regarding the water pump not running. If you remove the bleed screw on the pipe. Then rev the engine do you get a fountain of water water???

Cheers

Hm not sure on the bleed screw but will definitely ask mechanic to do that tomorrow when I drop it back to him, thanks very much. PS I take it i should get a fountain of water?

regarding the leak test - he actually had that done on the engine, took it to another garage. He said "there was a small leak on one of the cylinders". But my friend said that doesnt prove much, and what is "small" anyway?! He reckons many old disco would show a slight leak if you tested them all.

Yes you would like to see a fountain, that will increase as you rev the engine.

Are you sure the leak test he did, was not a leak past test. the sniff test is to check if there is exhaust gases in the coolant.

Cheers