J

john snoo

Well-Known Member
Hi all. Just got myself the car I always wanted, my first Disco! Its a 2000 model in MINT condition, TD5 Auto ES. Loads of questions and things I want to know, I like to know everything about my cars so I am finally moving over from the Mercedes owners forum to the LandyZone! :D
Actually, I can start now.....

1. Mine has those controls in the boot, for the stereo with headphones. I tried them and they don't work but they do light up when plug is put in so I assume they can work, there is a faint hiss in the headphones. Is this is a common problem/easy fix?

2. I am planning on having it remapped. Any thoughts?

3. What colour coolant should I use? I never really believed the colour mattered, sounded like another one of those cons by Halfords and the like, to make people buy new bottles the whole time! Am i right or wrong, does it matter what coolant I use?
Thanks and i look forward to many happy hours of learning about my beloved new motor!
 
Hello and Welcome to the Loonyzone,

OAT should be the coolant you use, generally pink.

Make sure you have two working key fobs and that you also know the EKA code and how to use it.
Next is fnd someone local to you that has access to the diagnostics required for the D2, as it is not fully OBDII compliant.

Hope you enjoy the new purchase.

Cheers
 
Hiya, thanks for the reply. OAT - Is that a brand or the content it refers to?

Actually you mentioned another point there. Unfortunately I only have one key which works on remote. I have a second key which looks like the buttons fell out of it, it has duct tape wrapped around. The seller told me its just for the doors but I suspect it was once a working remote key as well. I don't have the EKA code, if that's the code that comes with the keys :(. I just read the user manual cover to cover and noticed this mentioned. I don't have a card with numbers on, or anything on the keyring.

Find someone with diags, no fully OBDII compliant - what does this mean please?

Thanks again
 
OAT, is the sort of coolant. Cannot remember of the top of my head the exact wording. If you go have a look in any motorparts store, then you will see OAT on the bottles.

Ref the key, easiset way is to open the "broken" key and press the buttons to see if it works. if yes, then you can buy a new case on fleabay for a few notes. always check the red light on the key fob shows when you press the button. If the red light does not show then double check the battery is OK. If the electronics are not god then you can buy a replacement at various places ( but , it will require the car to be programmed to accept the key).

EKA code, is something you really need to know, for when your fob fails to work for some reason. if you find someone with diagnostics ( I know nanocom works for this ) then they can tell you what the code is. Or you could ask your LR dealer for it, it should be FOC.

Ref , diagnostics, there are a few work on the D2 fully, the best known home use designed for the D2 are Hawkeye, Lynx or nanocom. There ia always going to be a discussion as to which one is best. OBD II was a standardised diagnostics system devised for all cars basically, but the roll out date for diesels meant the D2 TD5 missed it, so although some of the diagnostics can be read, the answers may sometimes be dubious.

Cheers
 
Thanks for all the info. Why do you think I need diagnostics? Is it something i should do just to check for faults, is that what you mean?
 
Hiya John,

Because I would suspect at some point you may need it and it is better to know where you can get access to it, than try to search when you really need it. LOL.

It is just a precaution, But also it is good to have a base line if it is working well, and then you can always check back if there is a problem.

Cheers
 
I just noticed two audio controls (i assume) on the rear of the centre console between the front seats, fitted for use by rear passengers i think. Its just a grey button with 4 tiny bulbs. It says "Alpine" on it hence why I assume its for audio. Does anyone else have these? Is it standard for the ES model or an extra mine has had fitted? I also have TV screens in the rear of the headrests, I don't think I will use them, but mention it in case these are related to the Alpine buttons!
 
this is in the owners manual.
upload_2016-9-3_21-37-33.png
 
No that's not what I am referring to. These are on the back surface of the centre console between the front seats. Two panels, one each side on rear surface, each has a large grey button and 4 green led bulbs under the button
 
Well I have fiddled around, and it looks like the broken keyfob actually is broken. I haven't tried putting the guts into the new empty fob I have here yet, but i tried it in the ignition, it turned all the starting lights on, but when I tried to turn it to start the engine it just clicked. Is this repairable or is it just a door key from now on? :( :(

I spoke to LR and they gave me my EKA code FOC, thanks for the tip Neilly. So i have only one working remote key fob, the only key to start the engine. This is obviously a concern and I need to sort a second one out. Before I entertain LR extortion prices, does anyone have any tips for getting a fob coded/made more cheaply than LR charge please?

Also a small question.... the interior light above the windscreen - it works when doors are opened (when switch in middle door setting) but when i push switch to ON, it doesn't light up. Any ideas on that? Obviously can't be the bulb so I am a bit stumped

Thanks for any help
 
OK,

Try this, unlock using the good working fob, but leave it outside the car and try using the key that does not work to start the car, there is a 30 second window in which the passive immobliser works. Also worth checking to see if the electronics have the yellow chip on it see photo. Number 1 is a good D2 key fob, Number 2 is a rover 75 fob, as you will see it is missing a yellow chip( this chip is for the passive immobiliser).
 

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Regarding the broken fob,

If you know the battery is good.

1) does the little red LED on the fob , light up when you press the buttons?
2) Does the fob unlock the door remotely?

If it needs programming then that is why the aforementioned diagnostics "friend" was recommended, find someone with a nanocom to program it, it is only a 5 minute job.

As also mentioned above, I tend to buy as spare keys, rover 75 / 45 keys, as they are cheaper. They will need the key blade changing and the passive immobiliser will not work correctly, but then just lock and unlock the car and start the engine straight way and drive away. As a warning even the cheapie ( £30) brand new "D2" keys on fleabay tend not to have the passive chip fitted on the electronic board as they should.

Cheers
 
Also worth noting what the dash LED is doing when you are trying to start the car.

Cheers
 
Thanks very much for such great help. Interesting stuff too.

1. I tried doing as you said, unlocking remotely with working fob, leave outside, try starting with broken fob key. This worked, it started fine :)

2. Yes the red light on the broken fob comes on briefly when I press it, but battery could be low. going to move the guts to a new fob and put new battery in and then try doors again, but no the broken fob doesn't lock/unlock remotely
 
PS I just opened the broken fob and I notice both yellow chips, I do think this is a genuine original key, hopefully just with a bad battery. will soon find out

The other reason I want to play around with keys is because I take the kids surfing in the sea quite a lot, and I obviously don't want to leave a key lying around. What I plan to do is have a key cut to just unlock the driver's door. I used to do this with my Mercedes. I would lock remotely with drivers door open, throw keys into hidden spot under seat and shut the door quick before alarm system activated. Then i would just have a metal key to keep in my wetsuit or hidden somewhere on beach. That way the car is alarmed, but i dont have the electronic key fob in the water! Hoping I can do similar with the D2.
 
Sounds good,

Try the fob once you have reworked it, if it does not work then as above, find a nanocom " friend" , just a 5 minute job to check a) if the car is programmed to accept the key ( check the 6 digit alpha numeric code on the key electronics against what is stored in the cars brain.
b) programme it and check to see if the key is transmitting correctly to the car.

If you show your general location, you may find someone local who has a nanocom, ( I do not know what other diagnostics can do keys correctly) or check the LZIR map.

Cheers
 
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