Joe_H · Oct 13, 2016

Charlot said:
Ok removed front prop and noise still there. Here is a video you can hear the noise at 9sec and 18sec in video sorry if not yhe best quality but should give an idea.

Hmmm. That's a very 'light' knocking - more like something is occasionally just touching somewhere.

It sounds more like something slightly loose in the engine bay - a cable or part of the loom etc. It is not a suspension type knock -(from what I can here on the vid.)
Can you 'feel' any thing through the steering when the light knock occurs ? - or through the floor ?.
Joe

Charlot · Oct 13, 2016

Joe_H said:
Hmmm. That's a very 'light' knocking - more like something is occasionally just touching somewhere.

It sounds more like something slightly loose in the engine bay - a cable or part of the loom etc. It is not a suspension type knock -(from what I can here on the vid.)
Can you 'feel' any thing through the steering when the light knock occurs ? - or through the floor ?.
Joe

It is actualy slightly louder than in the video. Have checked again the cables and fuel lines situated near the driverside steering arm. as I have slightly moved these. And sounds like something solid more than a pipe or cable.

Tomorrow Im taking it to a friend of mine. Will be putting it on posts and put it in gear and try trace the noise.

Joe_H · Oct 13, 2016

Charlot said:
It is actualy slightly louder than in the video. Have checked again the cables and fuel lines situated near the driverside steering arm. as I have slightly moved these. And sounds like something solid more than a pipe or cable.

Tomorrow Im taking it to a friend of mine. Will be putting it on posts and put it in gear and try trace the noise.

You would probably feel it if it was something heavier - If you have moved cables - fuel lines this could well be the issue. Often things sound a lot louder than they are.
When you say you 'moved' them - in what way ?
It would be well worth trying a temporary piece of padding in around them. A slightly loose piece or wiring -and certainly a fuel line can make quite a sound when it moves against something solid.
The idea of running a freelander on a post lift with all 4 wheel spinning is not something I would want to be anywhere near I must confess.

Charlot · Oct 13, 2016

I moved the fuel line from above the chasis to the side so just 10mm or less and tied them with cable ties to keep them steady. Cutting the extra length of the cable ties. But will try the padding.

As for the posts I will leave it on 2wd as it does it also in 2wd and raise only the front end. 4wd would be way more dangerous.

And also I can't feel the banging from steering wheel as far as I know. and as from the floor it's hard to say as roads are not the best over here.

Charlot · Oct 13, 2016

This is a picture taken from the engine bay from above on the passenger side of the fuel lines. Feel lines appear closer then they really are to the gear selector but tested several times and they don't touch at all. Also there is enough space in between them and the left drive shaft and inner and outer cv joint/bellow

Joe_H · Oct 13, 2016

Charlot said:
This is a picture taken from the engine bay from above on the passenger side of the fuel lines. Feel lines appear closer then they really are to the gear selector but tested several times and they don't touch at all. Also there is enough space in between them and the left drive shaft and inner and outer cv joint/bellow

Hi Charlot
That looks rather tight in there !

Try a few more tie wraps - but also check this one out (see arrow on image attached) - this sort of pipe moving against the frame could well cause that sort of noise.
Also the gear linkage area - this may cause the noise to be more evident on acceleration due to engine / box movement.
You can always add a bit more restriction during testing by using a piece of string under a tie wrap on a bundle and tying it up to a point higher to put a little bit of tension on.
Joe

dfossil · Oct 13, 2016

Charlot said:
Ok removed front prop and noise still there. Here is a video you can hear the noise at 9sec and 18sec in video sorry if not yhe best quality but should give an idea.

If I heard it right it's too irregular for transmission - far more likely drop links or summat lightly loaded like that

Charlot · Oct 13, 2016

dfossil said:
If I heard it right it's too irregular for transmission - far more likely drop links or summat lightly loaded like that

It was a very short run but on longer trips its more regular and more consistent with drive speed than engine revs.
Frequency of noise is like when you have something stuck to the tyres such as a bolt or some stone. But again only when accelerating hard and not when cruising or idleing. And also not all the time.

dfossil · Oct 13, 2016

Charlot said:
It was a very short run but on longer trips its more regular and more consistent with drive speed than engine revs.
Frequency of noise is like when you have something stuck to the tyres such as a bolt or some stone. But again only when accelerating hard and not when cruising or idleing. And also not all the time.

OK - Nodge is prolly on the money then.

Nodge68 · Oct 13, 2016

To me it sounds like a hollow sound. Like when a CV joint is pushed home. That's where I'd be looking.

Alibro · Oct 13, 2016

Tenner says it's a shock absorber.
I had a very similar noise from mine and changed the wishbones, track rod ends, drop links, anti roll bar bushes and decided there was nothing else left. I got a 2nd hand shocker from a scrappy and the problem was sorted.
In my case it would be noisy one day and quiet the next, sometimes it was noisy over certain bumps and next time nothing.

Joe_H · Oct 13, 2016

This is one of those times when after changing the whole car, it turns out to be the Jack moving about in the fish tank or that pair of pliers you forgot to to remove from the glove box.......

It is amazing how noise is transmitted through a monocoque structure....

ps, Who the fek has gloves ?

Charlot · Oct 14, 2016

Nodge68 said:
To me it sounds like a hollow sound. Like when a CV joint is pushed home. That's where I'd be looking.

That's exactly my taught but upon inspection they look good. today we're raising it on stands and track the sound. and seriously considering changing both as it might be that they wear in a certain pattern and when raised that pattern no longer does the job. hope to sort it out once and for all.

Charlot · Oct 14, 2016

Joe_H said:
This is one of those times when after changing the whole car, it turns out to be the Jack moving about in the fish tank or that pair of pliers you forgot to to remove from the glove box.......

It is amazing how noise is transmitted through a monocoque structure....

ps, Who the fek has gloves ?

or the ratchet I once forgot in the engine bay. still cannot figure out how I found it in the exact same spot after a 5 mile drive.

Alibro · Oct 14, 2016

Charlot said:
That's exactly my taught but upon inspection they look good. today we're raising it on stands and track the sound. and seriously considering changing both as it might be that they wear in a certain pattern and when raised that pattern no longer does the job. hope to sort it out once and for all.

Still say it's one of the struts.

Charlot · Oct 14, 2016

Alibro said:
Still say it's one of the struts.

Had to postpone todays inspection so will be doing it next week. Both tie rods have been replaced together with track rod ends. Ball joints look good. Only thing un touched are shocks, cv joints and shafts together with inner cvs. So only lots of money worth of parts remains to be changed if found kaput.
Is there a way to test the shocks?

Alibro · Oct 14, 2016

Not in my case there wasn't. I tried standing on the bonnet stay (with the bonnet open) and bouncing the front as much as possible but nothing. I think it might have been worse when going over a pothole rather than a bump as the wheel suddenly dropping seemed to cause it more but the noise was so random I couldn't put a finger on it. The only thing I was sure about was it was coming from front left. I guess that makes sense as the N/S wheel will always hit more potholes and bumps then the O/S so will fail first.

Charlot · Oct 14, 2016

Alibro said:
Not in my case there wasn't. I tried standing on the bonnet stay (with the bonnet open) and bouncing the front as much as possible but nothing. I think it might have been worse when going over a pothole rather than a bump as the wheel suddenly dropping seemed to cause it more but the noise was so random I couldn't put a finger on it. The only thing I was sure about was it was coming from front left. I guess that makes sense as the N/S wheel will always hit more potholes and bumps then the O/S so will fail first.

What I have noticed also is tire wear on the outside of both front tires and back ones which I assume where changed and put there from the front end. But wear was present since I baught the car not just after the lift kit and have never heard these sounds before.

Alibro · Oct 14, 2016

You've changed the attitude of the struts so if one of them was about to get noisy you might have done enough to trigger it.
As for tyre wear, have you ever looked at the car from the front or back? After fitting the lift kit to mine the wheels are definitely have much more positive camber than before which will wear the outside edge of the wheels.

Joe_H · Oct 14, 2016

Charlot said:
What I have noticed also is tire wear on the outside of both front tires and back ones which I assume where changed and put there from the front end. But wear was present since I baught the car not just after the lift kit and have never heard these sounds before.

This is the sort of case where you could use decent diagnostics. I have a 6 channel electronic audio detector (a multi channel electronic stethoscope.) each detector has a crocodile clip that can be clipped onto items that you suspect. - IMO it is not a shock - but it could be -who knows ? - it is so helpful to have the audio pick up as you can connect to eachstrut top for example - also to a track rod and suspension arm - any combination really.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Elect...670018?hash=item3d26208342:g:6dgAAOxyiRlSa-oq
It seems expensive but is actually really really cheap when you compare the price of a few replacement parts that turn out to NOT be the issue.
It would be entirely logical to put the blame on the fitting 'lift kit' until proven differently.
As for your tyres. - after you have solved your problem - whatever they were like before you will still need to get the camber angles sorted at the front and then do the tracking - don't bother with tracking until you have the camber corrected.
Hopefully you get it sorted.
I still think it is the jack in the box lol

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