JimAttrill
New Member
Easy peasy. Jack up car, take off wheel, put on axle stand, remove split pins, push pads back in with screwdriver, remove old pads, fit new pads, replace split pins and wheel. Takes about 5 mins a side.
Preferably use a syringe to take out a bit of brake fluid from the reservoir before you start or it could overflow and damage your paintwork. Or even better, bleed the brakes before removing the pads, that will change the fluid in the calliper.
Preferably use a syringe to take out a bit of brake fluid from the reservoir before you start or it could overflow and damage your paintwork. Or even better, bleed the brakes before removing the pads, that will change the fluid in the calliper.
Jason2
Well-Known Member
Just change the pads, you dont have to bleed the brakes but it's better to bleed them now and again to get some new fluid in there but if you've never changed pads before you might be taking too much on doing them both at the same time.
JimAttrill
New Member
Well if you bleed them it stops the reservoir overflowing when you push the pads back in. I don't bother with all those tubes and bleed kits, just open the bleed nipples and let a bit of fluid out. Seems to work ok on Defenders and Discos. Squirt with a hose afterwards.
walter2004
New Member
All good advice but watch out if it has abs when bleeding brakes.
I did my pads allround at the weekend no problem and I dont know my spanner from a ham sandwhich, only tip I can give is leave overflow res. lid off whilst fitting.Apart from that getting the 18inch alloys off took the longest, sledgehammer and lump of wood came in handy but averaged 10 mins to fit pads and 20 mins to remove wheel first
battenberg
Well-Known Member
If you've never bleed brakes before your gonna need a mate to give you a hand (or a foot!)... see if you can find someone who has done if before!
It is a pretty straightforward process once you understand what's going on.
By using a total loss method of the fluid as per JimAttrill's post and squirting it over the floor, You will be changing your brake fliud as well. This can only be a good thing, as brake fluid degrades over time
However, be very cautious opening the bleed nipple for the first time on each caliper, as sheering them off will cause you all kinds of headaches, WD40 or PlusGas the night before and plenty of it, and use a spanner of proper fit!!
Bleeding brakes is easy if you've got a mate to help, almost impossible on your own without a fancy bleeding kit. So find a mate who's done it before and rope them in with the lure of beer...
Dont forget the hosedown at the end, Brake fluid is nasty stuff splashed about on paintwork.
It is a pretty straightforward process once you understand what's going on.
By using a total loss method of the fluid as per JimAttrill's post and squirting it over the floor, You will be changing your brake fliud as well. This can only be a good thing, as brake fluid degrades over time
However, be very cautious opening the bleed nipple for the first time on each caliper, as sheering them off will cause you all kinds of headaches, WD40 or PlusGas the night before and plenty of it, and use a spanner of proper fit!!
Bleeding brakes is easy if you've got a mate to help, almost impossible on your own without a fancy bleeding kit. So find a mate who's done it before and rope them in with the lure of beer...
Dont forget the hosedown at the end, Brake fluid is nasty stuff splashed about on paintwork.
Mantamad
New Member
Far easier just to get a pressure bleeder such as Gunsons Easi Bleed (under £15 from halfords), fill it with fluid and connect to your reservior, you then connect another hose to either your tyre valve or a spare tyre/wheel, air from this pressurises the system, then just open each bleed nipple in turn and let the fluid flow through, all you need to do is make sure the Gunson device does not run out of fluid.
JimAttrill
New Member
From experience changing a couple of ABS modulators which are UNDER the ABS pump so you have to disconnect all the pipes, etc: There is a bleed setting on the computer which we use, but this only goes so far. After that performance I still open the bleed nipples and let some fluid out. Whether the computer bleed is absolutely necessary I don't know, as I've got one and use it.
Now bleeding the ACE is 100% dependent on the pooter. Don't even try without one cos the pump will go poof and that's a lot of boodle.
Any of you fellas had any probs with your A.C.E in the past i've got a amber light on the dash ,the hand book say's it's an electrical fault. A LD specialst said it could be low oil in the A.C.E tank,it was slightly low but after fill to max it made no difference. Just wondering about costs for repairs. Thanks .
s12aun......
s12aun......
