Rhd, that makes it right - hole-drivethats why i said left ie the one opposite to right
for me, its the passengers door wot has the key hole innit
its RHD
Rhd, that makes it right - hole-drivethats why i said left ie the one opposite to right
for me, its the passengers door wot has the key hole innit
its RHD
fort it was Rancid Diesel DriveRhd, that makes it right - hole-drive
Rong-hole-dive!!fort it was Rancid Diesel Drive
So that kind of points to the FOBIt locks and unlocks all doors from the button in the centre console.
Hi All
I have finally scratched the itch of buying a Range Rover again after selling my last one ( a burgundy 1989 classic) in 2001.
I have just purchased a 2005 L320 Sport in Stornaway Grey with full service history.
Of course there are faults and I could do with a bit of advice on them
The doors lock with the fob but will not unlock with it. The tailgate opens using the Landrover button and this allowed me to get in and open the doors. The alarm went off but I managed to stop it by pressing the Landrover button a few times and then putting the key in the ignition. I daren't lock it again in case I can't get back in. What could be the problem?
The drivers side mirror does not work but the passenger one does.
The rear cabin lights don't come on when the doors are open or when the main button is pressed but come on if switched on. Again pointers to the problem would be welcome.
I read on here about the master reset so I tried that and it didn't work.
I know there are a lot of questions here but all the detractors are telling me the RR it is on its way out.
All advice would be very much appreciated.
Thanks
Which is the drivers door, or are you looking from the front which makes it the drivers door.
But does it operate the CDL? for all doors or just open that door. I have never tried mine. I will let you go first.
J
There will be no voltage reading with the meter set to VAC as that is Volts AChi
Plus 1 what others have said with regards to the alternator / battery , plse recheck with the engine off then with it running to double check the Vdc , if it goes over 17 Vdc it can take out both the alternator and battery , if a new alternator is fitted plse ensure it’s a genuine denso
With a multimeter set it to VAC, with the engine off go across both battery terminals , plse let us know what the reading are
regarding the key fob issue there are green/ white wires down by the passenger side sill, there’s 3 x wires crimped together which need to be cut off and resoldered, , there’s a large loom that runs in that sill and u might find water in the sill
as u have diagnostics u can buy a key off eBay , plse ensure it’s a new one with 433mhz as that’s what’s the frequency is for Uk cars
other things to make sure of are oil pump and timing belt to when they were last replaced , very important as some older oil pumps had a weak casings where the tensioner can and does break off
boot lights may just be broken bulbs , the rear boot side ones by the handles don’t come on automatically, u have to turn them on manually , only the rear middle one and other centre lights will come on opening the boot/ doors
hope that helps
High voltage readings can be caused by failure of the engine to chassis earth strap.Where would I go to get a new fob of how can I check it?
As an aside I tested the voltage at the battery while the car was running and it was measuring 18.2V.
I thought this was very high.
What happens to the car if this is true.
What could be the reason for the lack of interior lights at the back the lights in the bottom of the doors and the drivers side electric wing mirror movement?
there will be very low AC ripple,(in the 2-300mv range) much more than this indicates a problemThere will be no voltage reading with the meter set to VAC as that is Volts AC
True, but none of my DVM's will actually show it.there will be very low AC ripple,(in the 2-300mv range) much more than this indicates a problem
sounds wrong to me, would suspect the meter initiallyI did a test on the battery after leaving it overnight and the reading was 13.1V
I think I need to try a second multimeter to to see if they are the same and its not the meter thats faulty.
I will have a look in the sill at the weekend to look at the condition of the wiring.
It does have a bit of rust in the chassis so the earth strap could be a possabilty.