A

aberbotimue

New Member
I have posted this question, on another forum, and since posting, its been read 3 times!! I guess they don't have the readership, and now I have wondered about looking at other forums, I found one closer to home!! with more folks and better community too!! so sorry guys , your stuck with me, I like it here better!!

So.

I have bought a series recently, and its been in a barn for the last 10 years. It is absolutly trashed!!! the clutch is jammed down, and the engine is looking very rough, no electrics are working, one wheel is jammed, can't open the passenger door, and much more, well worth the money I paid!! oh,. I should look at these things in the light, and not just be all excited, cos I bought another pile of metal!!

But lets face it, I have a project on my hands!!!

so, the question...

with it being left so long, what is likly to need fixed in the engine??

My haynes manual, sugests that I can do most things to the engine with it still inplace, but I would have to remove it for :

the crank shaft
the camshaft bearings
re boring the cylinder block.

How do I tell if I can get away without doing these??

where should I start??
 
yule probelly need to change all yer seals injun,g/box,hubs,diffs the lot. if you can get yer engine started then you'll have an idea if you need to strip it. if you can't then you'd most likely be best orf getting another or rebuilding the one you have. you can find enginr fer series landies on ebay fer next to nowt .
 
sounds like a real project.
Questions
What is it (Series 1 2 3 etc..)?

when was it last used (Last MOT)?

How much did you pay for it and how much do you want to spend (it might not be worth restoring)?

As slob says all the seal's (anything rubber) are prob shot.

Generaly the expensive bits are.
engine, Gear box, transfer box, steering
If these are shot and you look at replacing them then it's hundreds of pounds.
 
Cheers guys,,..

its a 1976, so is that a three??
the tax on the window, is 10 years old, i have NO documents ( I'll have that fight with DVLA next )
its a long wheel base.

I'm up for a real big project, as much as I can do in the garage the better.. I am mecanicaly inept, but planning on learning, and with the help of a lot of fourums, and google, I think I'll get there!!

250 and it was mine!!

and now I know, that was too much

what am I willing to spend?? good question. I havm't thought abouyt it, and if each bit is a small amount, hopefully I won't notice the overall cost!!

The engine doesn't start.

so I guess my starting points are

get it so the dashboard at least lights up
get the starter motor to turn?
I assume there will be no spark, so now stuck as to where to turn my attention next??

N
 
get a good batery and some jump leads. stick the black jump lead between any good point on engine and batt neg. next put red onto starter, then firmly push other end of red onto batt pos. that should let you see if injun will turn over but it wint start cos you don't got no ign. yet.. make sure that its oot of gear and that the transfer box is in neutral. ..
 
Get yourself a starter handle, and see if you can manually turn the engine over.

If you can't, remove spark plugs (might as well give them a clean and reset the gap while they're out) and insert a quantity of penetrating oil (like Plusgas - not the aerosol version tho) into each plug hole & leave it for a few days - what you are trying to do is to loosen up the crud which will be around the piston/rings.
Now use the starter handle to turn over the engine. - If you can't turn it over, try giving it some Redex. and repeat the process.

Not much point in trying to force the thing to turn on the starter if its' seized solid!!!

If it will turn, look at the points - reset the gap - check the HT leads for cracks or breakdown, Give it oil change, buy a tin of EASYSTART, and when you've got it all wired up and the fuel system charged, wack a load of easystart down the carb, cross your fingers, and try in on the key.

Good luck!!
 
easy start blah!! fooking hate that stuff..if yer injun needs it then it needs fixing not that ****
 
Ive found that engines get to like ezy start, they can get dependent. if your gona do that type of thing ive found that a tiney drop of petrol in the carb dose the trick just fine.
 
I have finaly got thr garage sorted to start this work, and re read the post.. thanks guys..

It just ocured to me, however...

Its a deisel - does that make any of the advice above not appropriate??
 
fresh fuel would not go a miss. But see if it will turn over first.

Where are you based, some one may be near by and able to help get you started.
 
aberbotimue said:
I'll have that fight with DVLA next
Click to expand...

It's not that bad, I just said that mine had been lying in a barn for several years (from the last MOT) and the original owner didn't have the documents (which was true), just filled out the form and paid the £18 or whatever it was, declared it a SORN and that was it.
 
ERe ed.poore

1982 Series III SWB - Now with big mother of winch

so what winch have you got and what is the best way of fittingon sIII. Definately need one as my sIII took 2.5 hrs to dig out today, all part of the fun but seriously thinking about a winch.
 
Sidz said:
ERe ed.poore
so what winch have you got and what is the best way of fittingon sIII. Definately need one as my sIII took 2.5 hrs to dig out today, all part of the fun but seriously thinking about a winch.
Click to expand...


Champion 1000G-S, but was on offer at the time, haven't really used it that much since I've started a chassis-up rebuild, isn't one of the big-names such as Warn but then I don't need anything that big/powerful (mainly expensive), in fact it'll be used more for pulling stuff around the farm.

Still with a 10,000lbs rated load it's more than enough. I think where it may lose out to Warn etc is how long it's able to pull continuously.

The way I fitted it was a sheet of 6mm steel, put four holes in the same place as the ones for the bumper and then four for the winch, two of these also went through the bumper for added strength. For the fairlead I got some old but strong angle-iron and mounted the fairlead with it's four bolts onto the angle-iron and two more bolts then through the bumper.

Simple, but bad diagram here if you want, black is bumper, red is steel plate, green are holes. The top four are the bumper attaching ones, the bottom two go through bumper as well, the middle-top two simply go through the plate.

Simple but effective solution.
 
Yeah I looked at the mounting plate but then a local trailer manufacturing company who said to drop by if we wanted gave me a sheet of 6mm steel (7x12" or something like that) for £6 and cut the big bits I wanted off off.

All that was left was for me to drill the holes through the plate and the bumper, which was no mean feat, required a titanium drill bit for the first hole to speed things up.
 
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