D

dickdecca

New Member
Decided to replace the rear mud flaps on my 90 today and started poking around. The rear cross member has been replaced and I was quit pleased with the chassis so far as it seems solid and only surface rust. What is the best way to treat this corrosion and rustproof it?

5f8a4d15d1157872e965e7727dbfa16b.jpg


Then I looked at the fuel filter and it looks like it should have some sort of cover on it. Any ideas on that?

b39be0496d96c47e695d7c5c44939b0c.jpg


Then I looked at the tubular outrigger and that has rusted to bits, nothing connecting the body to it.

4ef259b9395071ec99733e0dd69d9daa.jpg


None of the nuts would come undone, all had to be cut off. Can you get just the bracket to mount the body to the outrigger or is it better to replace the whole thing.

So a small job turned into quite a bit of work.

Any advice is much appreciated. I am new to this😀
 
Filter has a cover and the outrigger is available in one piece ,tube end welds to chassis if u weld its a 10 min job
 
Yes there is a bit of corrosion there.
Needs cleaning up, repairs where necessary, then treat the whole chassis with a rustproofer such as Waxoyl.
My tip is to dilute the waxoyl 10% with gear oil. Waxoyl on its own can go hard and just peel off, or even trap moisture. If you put 10% oil in, it never goes hard and works better.

I treated my Defender 90 five years ago and the Waxoyl is still sticky, although it has required occasional re-treatment where water sprays on it, such as under the wheel arches.
 
or just use dinitrol which is far superior to waxoyl in the first place. id get your wire brush and steam cleaner out before you do it.

one for when its a bit warmer id say!
 
I have - but that's a different story.....

You can rent steam cleaners - not silly money - or look up local places , lorry mechanics or plant mechanics etc usually have big steam cleaners and ramps etc.

I got my RRC done for a few quid.

Also worth checking out are the Dynax rustproof products.
I've rustproofed a few cars with them - it sticks very well, and self heals.
The spray cans are very good and easy to use.

On mine, I steam cleaned the dodgy crusty bits, let it dry, then I wire brushed it as best as I could. Then worked in a rust converting primer ( from toolstation) before coating in dynax underbody wax underneath, and cavity wax inside sections.

Three years on, looks fine - only need to touch up where the wax has got worn off / scraped off by obstructions.
 
captainbeaky said:
I have - but that's a different story.....

You can rent steam cleaners - not silly money - or look up local places , lorry mechanics or plant mechanics etc usually have big steam cleaners and ramps etc.

I got my RRC done for a few quid.

Also worth checking out are the Dynax rustproof products.
I've rustproofed a few cars with them - it sticks very well, and self heals.
The spray cans are very good and easy to use.

On mine, I steam cleaned the dodgy crusty bits, let it dry, then I wire brushed it as best as I could. Then worked in a rust converting primer ( from toolstation) before coating in dynax underbody wax underneath, and cavity wax inside sections.

Three years on, looks fine - only need to touch up where the wax has got worn off / scraped off by obstructions.
Click to expand...

thats exactly how i did mine. just used dinitrol instead, but ive heard great things about dynax. I reckon either are better than waxoyl.

i used my local landy garage outside lift and steam cleaner. beer money was exchanged.
 
After a good cleanup and anti rust treatment you choose. Do NOT be tempted to cover with underseal. Looks good to start then it cracks and water gets behind and in no time there is hidden rot. I have looked over many vehicles for others and allways walk away from those with underseal.
 
dickdecca said:
Decided to replace the rear mud flaps on my 90 today and started poking around. The rear cross member has been replaced and I was quit pleased with the chassis so far as it seems solid and only surface rust. What is the best way to treat this corrosion and rustproof it?

5f8a4d15d1157872e965e7727dbfa16b.jpg


Then I looked at the fuel filter and it looks like it should have some sort of cover on it. Any ideas on that?

b39be0496d96c47e695d7c5c44939b0c.jpg


Then I looked at the tubular outrigger and that has rusted to bits, nothing connecting the body to it.

4ef259b9395071ec99733e0dd69d9daa.jpg


None of the nuts would come undone, all had to be cut off. Can you get just the bracket to mount the body to the outrigger or is it better to replace the whole thing.

So a small job turned into quite a bit of work.

Any advice is much appreciated. I am new to this😀
Click to expand...

As far as I know you can only buy the whole outrigger which would be a shame to hack up the old one if it's just the end that is rotten.

If you can weld and have a little patience I would buy a piece of rectangular tube, 2/3mm wall, and slice it down the middle to create the "triangle piece" then contour the base section to the radius of the tube, clean it all up and weld it on - drill holes at the bottom to let water drain out, or even better cut a larger square hole. I did this on my new chassis so that water and muck would drain out.
 
discomania said:
As far as I know you can only buy the whole outrigger which would be a shame to hack up the old one if it's just the end that is rotten.

If you can weld and have a little patience I would buy a piece of rectangular tube, 2/3mm wall, and slice it down the middle to create the "triangle piece" then contour the base section to the radius of the tube, clean it all up and weld it on - drill holes at the bottom to let water drain out, or even better cut a larger square hole. I did this on my new chassis so that water and muck would drain out.
Click to expand...
I have ordered a new outrigger for this. I am thinking of cutting the hanger off the end and welding it onto the old bar. That might be an easier repair than replacing the whole thing.
 
captainbeaky said:
I have - but that's a different story.....

You can rent steam cleaners - not silly money - or look up local places , lorry mechanics or plant mechanics etc usually have big steam cleaners and ramps etc.

I got my RRC done for a few quid.

Also worth checking out are the Dynax rustproof products.
I've rustproofed a few cars with them - it sticks very well, and self heals.
The spray cans are very good and easy to use.

On mine, I steam cleaned the dodgy crusty bits, let it dry, then I wire brushed it as best as I could. Then worked in a rust converting primer ( from toolstation) before coating in dynax underbody wax underneath, and cavity wax inside sections.

Three years on, looks fine - only need to touch up where the wax has got worn off / scraped off by obstructions.
Click to expand...
I was just going to pressure wash it. Is steam cleaning that much better?
 
top drive said:
who actually has a steam cleaner for their chassis at home....
Click to expand...

me, and a jetwash and i use it regularly. best way, none of this painting ****. mud on steel is what rots it.

That chassis looks a bit scabby, that could do with investigating.....
 
I pressure wash but im sure the mrs would have a flip if i used the karcher steam mop on the landy chassis :)
 
top drive said:
I pressure wash but im sure the mrs would have a flip if i used the karcher steam mop on the landy chassis :)
Click to expand...

just wait till she is out, thats what i have done, also the dishwasher does double duty as a parts washer but she doesnt know that either!!!
 
Yes, the chassis metal looks like it is flaking in places, so you'd want to get some of that scale off prior to applying anything. Looks like a job for a needle scaler if you have such a thing. Plus, see if what's left us thick enough to hold everything together!
 
dickdecca said:
I have ordered a new outrigger for this. I am thinking of cutting the hanger off the end and welding it onto the old bar. That might be an easier repair than replacing the whole thing.
Click to expand...

Is the tube and the part into the chassis solid?

If so, I would be tempted to cut the outrigger off about half way along, cut the new one at the appropriate point to make it the same length when fitted, then sleeve it in some tubing, hopefully you would find a tube just bigger.

Weld it up end to end, then slide the new sleeve over and seam weld all around on both sides. Absolutely lash paint onto the lot and it would be a good repair.

I always think unless you go to the bother of removing the old outrigger from the chassis by core drilling round it, you just end up with a new outrigger bodged into the old tube hole which is a water trap.
 
Brown said:
Yes, the chassis metal looks like it is flaking in places, so you'd want to get some of that scale off prior to applying anything. Looks like a job for a needle scaler if you have such a thing. Plus, see if what's left us thick enough to hold everything together!
Click to expand...
Thanks. I have wire brushed it and it actually looks a lot worse than it is. After several wacks with a hammer it seems solid. I am going to treat it with metalmorphisis and then hammerite on the outside and waxoyl on the inside.
 
dickdecca said:
Thanks. I have wire brushed it and it actually looks a lot worse than it is. After several wacks with a hammer it seems solid. I am going to treat it with metalmorphisis and then hammerite on the outside and waxoyl on the inside.
Click to expand...

good news. think you should consider pretty much anything other than hammerite. its pants. same goes for waxoyl. try dinitrol or dynax.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

dag019
Station wagon conversion
Replies
11
Views
756
shaynecm
S
A
Wish I hadn't started this job!
2
Replies
22
Views
1K
KISSMYAURA
KISSMYAURA
AH-4x4
Help ending my leak - 200TDI
Replies
10
Views
361
AH-4x4
AH-4x4
DAJDefender
Lower spring seat corrosion
Replies
6
Views
411
DAJDefender
DAJDefender
T
Defender front wheel not spinning.
Replies
2
Views
305
miktdish
miktdish