Colthebrummie said:
Stupid question but, you have'nt got it low drive have you? Mine pulls away nicely in first and I change to second at about 20mph. Overdrive doesnt really make it go much faster but it reduces the revs in 3rd and 4th. Maybe the overdrive is engaged when it shouldnt be. When I bought mine, I knew nothing about the so I asked the seller if all the levers were in the right position for me to drive it home. Yes he said, you dont need to touch anything except the gear lever. It was making a right racket on the way home, it turned out the winch lever was engaged and eventually tore its drive shaft uj apart.

Col
Click to expand...
I don't see it as a stupid question, Its an honest one.
I believe that the red knob lever is forward for high range, middle disengages and ok ulled back low range. Yellow knob down for 4 wheel drive
No sure where the overdrive shift. Pulled back tight to the seat. Not sure if that's right.
 
Rhode rover said:
I don't see it as a stupid question, Its an honest one.
I believe that the red knob lever is forward for high range, middle disengages and ok ulled back low range. Yellow knob down for 4 wheel drive
No sure where the overdrive shift. Pulled back tight to the seat. Not sure if that's right.
Click to expand...
You are correct about the red and yellow levers, but I dont have an overdrive so I cant comment on where the lever should be. Have you tested the red and yellow levers? If they are not moved for a long time (years) the linkages can seize up. It is always a bit risky checking them for the first time in case something goes wrong and you end up stuck somewhere. I can never remember which lever can be operated whilst on the move albeit slowly and which one can only be engaged when the vehicle is stationary.

Col
 
Rhode rover said:
I don't see it as a stupid question, Its an honest one.
I believe that the red knob lever is forward for high range, middle disengages and ok ulled back low range. Yellow knob down for 4 wheel drive
No sure where the overdrive shift. Pulled back tight to the seat. Not sure if that's right.
Click to expand...
Fairey overdrive the lever will be in the drivers footwell beside the transmission tunnel.
Right back for 4 speed, right forward for overdrive, I think.
It is not recommended to use overdrive in low range, as it can break them.
 
Sounds like that might be the problem then, overdrive is engaged. Might be worth seeing if you get the instructions for it off the internet. Probably wise to check that it is a fairey overdrive first though.

Col
 
Rhode rover said:
Hi, maybe I shouldn't say slow. When starting off in 1st gear it really drags. Almost like I'm pulling something. Seem like I have to shift into 2nd in a very short travel span. 3rd and 4th seem normal. Speed is around 40. It equiped with OD but sure how us it yet. Could just be me,getting use to vehicle.
Click to expand...
Is the handbrake binding? Or one or all of the wheel brakes?
 
I don't think the brakes sticking or frozen. Move and stops fine, no pulling to either side. Emergency brake does it's job and releases..
It's a SuperWinch OD ( formerly Fairy I think) I have the Manual , haven't read it yet. It's position straight up, close to middle of seat. I would believe while in 4th gear I'd use the clutch and push lever down. Haven't tried it though. Still getting the feel for things.
I did however get to change the oil. Guy I bought it from said everything was ok. After a ride I figured I check, bearly a reading on the stick. Fortunately I found some 20w50 conventional. Found out during the change that there were washes and seals missing. Least he was consistent with his lack of service.
 
Rhode rover said:
I don't think the brakes sticking or frozen. Move and stops fine, no pulling to either side. Emergency brake does it's job and releases..
It's a SuperWinch OD ( formerly Fairy I think) I have the Manual , haven't read it yet. It's position straight up, close to middle of seat. I would believe while in 4th gear I'd use the clutch and push lever down. Haven't tried it though. Still getting the feel for things.
I did however get to change the oil. Guy I bought it from said everything was ok. After a ride I figured I check, bearly a reading on the stick. Fortunately I found some 20w50 conventional. Found out during the change that there were washes and seals missing. Least he was consistent with his lack of service.
Click to expand...
I only used to use Fairey ovedrive in 3rd and 4th high range, as you say, using the clutch to engage OD while on the move.
I think there is a neutral on the overdrive, between the engaged and disengaged positions.
Binding handbrake will not cause any effects on the steering, because it is a transmission brake.
It is very rare to buy an old Land Rover that has been well looked after, and if you do, it will be very expensive.
Are you sure the lack of power is not caused by poor servicing?
Look at ignition timing, valve clearances, oil level in gearboxes, etc.
 
If Im driving in 3rd and engage the OD just like shifting in another gear, can I then shift into 4th with the OD still engaged.
The reverse the process till I'm in 3rd and disengage the OD before shifting into 2nd.
 
Rhode rover said:
If Im driving in 3rd and engage the OD just like shifting in another gear, can I then shift into 4th with the OD still engaged.
The reverse the process till I'm in 3rd and disengage the OD before shifting into 2nd.
Click to expand...
Yes on upshift, that will be fine.
Changing down, I used to just change down the gears, and then take the overdrive off when stopped.
With a standard 2286 petrol, you can do what you like with OD in High Range.
The problems with Fairey OD were mostly when people used them in Low Range for towing or heavy off roading.
I will also mention that Fairey overdrive uses 90 weight gear oil, and they have a drain and filler plug, so changing the oil is easy, and can do no harm.
 
Thank you. So I guess the next order of business check out the OD and give it some fresh lubricant.
And just to be clear the OD should be used only in 3rd &4TH
 
Rhode rover said:
If I change the oil in the OD an I changing the oil in the transfer case as well at the same time.
Click to expand...
No. Gearbox oil, transfer box oil, and overdrive oil should all be separate.
But they are the same oil, 90 weight gear oil, as is the oil in the diffs, steering box, and steering relay.
So it would be worth stocking up on a drum of 90 weight, save having lots of gallon cans lying around.
 
Thank you for clarifying Turboman
I was reading another Landyzone OD thread and it sounded to me that the OD and transfer box connected this filling at same time. I still poking my way around trying to learn what goes where.
 
Rhode rover said:
Thank you for clarifying Turboman
I was reading another Landyzone OD thread and it sounded to me that the OD and transfer box connected this filling at same time. I still poking my way around trying to learn what goes where.
Click to expand...
Filler plug on side of main gearbox, filler plug on back of transfer box, filler plug on top of overdrive.
For obvious reasons, the drain plugs for all of them are on the bottom! :D
The oil should be separate in all three, if the level is rising in one, and falling in another, it means you have a blown seal.
As these vehicles are well known for oil leaks, regular checks of the levels can save you a lot of money.
 
What are your thoughts on the oil itself? Do you think it should be the gl-4 or gl-5.
A cheaper generic brand or more name brand?
I looked at Staylube for the gl-4 rating... expensive but not sure if if worth the extra money be I'm so unsure of pass maintenance
 
Rhode rover said:
What are your thoughts on the oil itself? Do you think it should be the gl-4 or gl-5.
A cheaper generic brand or more name brand?
I looked at Staylube for the gl-4 rating... expensive but not sure if if worth the extra money be I'm so unsure of pass maintenance
Click to expand...
Cheap as you can. In the UK, I mostly use Comma and Carlube. But I don't know if they are available in the US under those names.
These vehicles were designed to use very basic mineral oils, made from the remains of a long dead dinosaur.
Using expensive tricksy oils is more likely to cause problems than solve them.

Think about it like working on a wartime Willys jeep, which is more or less what it is.
Time spent will repay you more than money spent.
 
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