I'm actively looking for something to tow a 3-ton boat (I may post a bit of history under new members), and have been asking around for ages without being confident about any answers.

Q1. Will both D2's and D3's operate in low range on mixture of tarmac and rough ground? I think I am asking whether low range can work without the front and rear wheels being locked together.
Q2. Does the D3 rot like my D1did? Will it be easy to have it welded if it rots?
Q3. I need a good turning circle Is the D3 any better than he D2?
Q4. Do any D3's come with roof rack features built in like D1's did?
Q5. I have kept the heavy raise/lower tow hitch with steps attachment off my late lamented 110's and D1. Will this fit on a D3?
 
Hi

D2 will operate in low range on tarmac and rough ground. I mentioned CDL in your intro post.

Your old D1 had hi / lo range plus it also had selectable CDL,.
Some D2's have the same system , others just rely on HI LO and Traction control. ( but they can be modified)

For the rest, maybe A D3 owner like @gstuart can help you out.

Cheers
 
D3 auto 190bhp std vs D2 136bhp answers all questions really.
Only seen a couple of pics of rusty examples of the D3 and Im sure theres a story behind them ie what theyve been used for or where theyve been used, like all old land rovers rust proofing should be seen as essential.
Dont get me wrong the D3 isnt perfect and its a very complicated machine but Ive owned every model of disco prior to the D3 and have to say its certainly the easiest to drive and live with.
The D3 was the most car like of all the land rover range at that time, by that i mean ease of driving, lack of bump steer, 6 speed auto v 4 speed.

Will need fixed towbar as land rover are now saying the detachable one is for light/temporary use only due to issues!
 
I'm actively looking for something to tow a 3-ton boat (I may post a bit of history under new members), and have been asking around for ages without being confident about any answers.

Q1. Will both D2's and D3's operate in low range on mixture of tarmac and rough ground? I think I am asking whether low range can work without the front and rear wheels being locked together.
Q2. Does the D3 rot like my D1did? Will it be easy to have it welded if it rots?
Q3. I need a good turning circle Is the D3 any better than he D2?
Q4. Do any D3's come with roof rack features built in like D1's did?
Q5. I have kept the heavy raise/lower tow hitch with steps attachment off my late lamented 110's and D1. Will this fit on a D3?

hi and welcome
i've done a buyers guide

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/buyers-guide.312800/

i put it together from owning one and hopefully may be of use to u

very important , check the oil pump cover has the latest one fitted, if not it must be replaced ,
belts 105,000 miles or 7 x years

there are plastic roof rail covers that can easily be removed , to then install roof rails, 2 x types a standard one and full length rail

TDV6

kerb weight 2.718 kg
max gross vehicle weight 3.230 kg
max towing weight , ( weight of vehicle plus trailer with over run brakes )
6.730 kg
max towed weights
unbraked 750 kg
trailers with over run brakes 3.500 kg
nose weight 150 kg

hope that helps
 
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D3 auto 190bhp std vs D2 136bhp answers all questions really.
Only seen a couple of pics of rusty examples of the D3 and Im sure theres a story behind them ie what theyve been used for or where theyve been used, like all old land rovers rust proofing should be seen as essential.
Dont get me wrong the D3 isnt perfect and its a very complicated machine but Ive owned every model of disco prior to the D3 and have to say its certainly the easiest to drive and live with.
The D3 was the most car like of all the land rover range at that time, by that i mean ease of driving, lack of bump steer, 6 speed auto v 4 speed.

Will need fixed towbar as land rover are now saying the detachable one is for light/temporary use only due to issues!


D2 is lighter and are any as low as 136bhp any more?

Mine is more like 170bhp
 
D2 is lighter and are any as low as 136bhp any more?

Mine is more like 170bhp

Std = standard, I wrote that on purpose, so the op can work from a level playing field.
Chip the D3 up by the same percentage and you are still 50bhp difference.

I reckon the TD5 auto would be a great towing machine if it had a 5 speed auto and not that ancient 4 speeder.
 
Thanks for all the help. I'm still reading through everything and thinking.

I've found an old pic of the tow hitch I would like to fit. It has the pin as well as the ball and can be adjusted up and down, so it copes with our boat and odd fishing boats etc. It was fine on this 110 and the Disco1, and so ought to work on a D2, but I've never seen a D3 with anything like this. It is very heavy!

tow hitch.jpg
 
I'm actively looking for something to tow a 3-ton boat (I may post a bit of history under new members), and have been asking around for ages without being confident about any answers.

I have a D2. It does get used for the odd bit of towing (nothing that heavy on road, although its towed some very heavy trailers on fields!) I have driven and towed with D3s.

Q1. Will both D2's and D3's operate in low range on mixture of tarmac and rough ground? I think I am asking whether low range can work without the front and rear wheels being locked together.

Yup. D2s come with or without centre diff lock. If you're regularly going to be towing weight on slippery ground then try to get one with CDL. Although the traction control system is pretty good it's not always the best when you're trying to do very slow speed maneuvers.

Q2. Does the D3 rot like my D1did? Will it be easy to have it welded if it rots?
I dont think so! The D2 will rot, but not in the same places (e.g. boot floor). Watch out for the rear chasiss though!

If you're going to do long motorway miles and want more comfort, then get a D3. If you're going to be exposing it to salt water and want something that you can afford to replace eventually / something thats easier to self-repair, get a D2.
 

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