As Fanatic says above, there is a magic trick.... No doubt some diagnostics can solve that issue....not sure how the US market systems are setup, but the UK market does adopt the higher mileage reading unless magicked!!
As Fanatic says above, there is a magic trick.... No doubt some diagnostics can solve that issue....not sure how the US market systems are setup, but the UK market does adopt the higher mileage reading unless magicked!!
rodntod
Active Member
Just jumper the two connectors inside the plug which normally connects to the sensor
Ok I'll certainly try that. I did not install the sensor, I had the shop do that but after watching them I'm confident to do it myself. I did notice though that my sensor had four prongs on it...though I did not get a chance to inspect the wiring perhaps it is only two lines.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Unless you have the kit to interfere with the flash memory in the instrument cluster it cannot easily be re-set, even then a re-set to zero is the easiest option. The BECM is a different ball game, not sure if it can be done with the Faultmate SM035 module.
The odometer error message is normal if there is a difference in mileage readings between the BECM and the instrument cluster, eventually it will update to the highest mileage figure I believe.
JamesBB
Active Member
Just chipping in here, but could this be a simple thermostat failure (stuck open) after the overtemp?
I have had a similar issue and I measured the output from the temp sensor and compared it to the temp co-efficient for the device, it seemed to be working ok but low for an engine that had been runing an 30-40 mins.
I have had a similar issue and I measured the output from the temp sensor and compared it to the temp co-efficient for the device, it seemed to be working ok but low for an engine that had been runing an 30-40 mins.
I don't believe so because I was able to plug in a handheld code reader that gave live data, and it showed my temp at 93-98C
Datatek
Well-Known Member
The aux fans are not connected to your problem, they operate normally with the aircon and only with a serious overheat do they operate to act as engine cooling.
You need to look at RAVE to see which pins to short.
UPDATE: STUMPED!
Soo. the shop has checked all wiring. Everything is perfect. Lines from coolant sensor go first into engine ECU, then from Engine ECU to BECM then out to gauge. So far, they have swapped and re-coded engine ECU as well as BECM to no avail. Also swapped instrument clusters. No luck.
Should also mention coolant sensors have been swapped twice now.
Here's the thing...they can successfully drive the gauge from diagnostics. We are all absolutely stumped.
Soo. the shop has checked all wiring. Everything is perfect. Lines from coolant sensor go first into engine ECU, then from Engine ECU to BECM then out to gauge. So far, they have swapped and re-coded engine ECU as well as BECM to no avail. Also swapped instrument clusters. No luck.
Should also mention coolant sensors have been swapped twice now.
Here's the thing...they can successfully drive the gauge from diagnostics. We are all absolutely stumped.
rodntod
Active Member
This is exactly where i was.
What are the part numbers of the sensors that have been fitted?
Well that's a good question, I'm not sure the shop is closed now...they both came from Atlantic British, a major parts provider here in the States.
They only list one sensor for my specific truck on the website so I imagine if they had the wrong sensor listed I wouldn't be the only one with this problem.
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What Radiator Temperature Sensor?
Hi guys...this will be the final update before I install a digital temp gauge. So far, the shop has changed out the cluster, ECM, BECM, and tested all wiring. Everything was swapped from a truck that runs and is driven daily. All wiring measures out, and the most frustrating thing is that we are getting the correct reading at the harness that plugs into the cluster...the end result...not only is that resistance correct, it matches the resistance we are getting from the daily driven truck. If I take my cluster and swap it into the other truck, it functions perfectly.
But my gauge will work and go to the center when plugged into diagnostics. I and the shop are out of options:mad2:
But my gauge will work and go to the center when plugged into diagnostics. I and the shop are out of options:mad2:
What do you mean by scoping? I know they have followed the wires from the coolant sensor to the ECM then to BECM and up to dash, and all the wires checked out good, including grounds. The wires to the dash are actually two power wires, and the ground must be in the harness somewhere. Kind of strange. Also we have checked for correct alternator/battery voltage, it was ok.
