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swampy Stephen

Member

• Apr 17, 2019

• #1

I have an 87 110 v8 and I'm looking at doing a partial restoration/ build / throwing money down the defender hole.

My brakes are pants, my stromberg carbs are worn, no power steering, I think most seals are leaking except for the engine, Salisbury rear axle etc

Where to start?

 

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discomania

Well-Known Member

• Apr 17, 2019

• #2

Depends on your budget and the quality of work you wish to complete.

For me it would be the brakes first - however, before proceeding ascertain if perhaps you would be better restoring the whole axle or getting a good replacement complete with brakes (I fitted a brand new axle to the front of my 90 a few years ago as it worked out cheaper than all the parts I was going to need to buy for it coupled with the time spent doing it far exceeded the new axle cost).

I'd then look at the power steering, and once the thing actually stops and steers I would sort the engine.

How is the chassis, bulkhead, gearboxes?

 

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swampy Stephen

Member

• Apr 17, 2019

• #3

It looks pretty solid, gearbox is a bit crunchy but I'm doing a service this weekend replacing all oils and filters etc.
Thinking about buying a Salisbury axle on Ebay that has discs then replaced the front with vented discs?

Budget isn't an issue as it's a long term project and I can do a bit at a time.

 

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Mingus

Active Member

• Apr 17, 2019

• #4

Welcome and first off check for rust on chassis and bulkhead. If they are fubar then maybe a rethink. Ive got solid discs and drums on my 86 110 CSW with 300tdi and auto box and when setup up right the brakes are fine....mines has new calipers, discs, drums, shoes, cylinders....in fact only bit i haven't done is the master cylinder. Just need to regularly adjust rear shoes which isnt hard.
If strombergs are nik nacked then change to SU or weber/elderbrock

 

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swampy Stephen

Member

• Apr 17, 2019

• #5

Mingus said:

Welcome and first off check for rust on chassis and bulkhead. If they are fubar then maybe a rethink. Ive got solid discs and drums on my 86 110 CSW with 300tdi and auto box and when setup up right the brakes are fine....mines has new calipers, discs, drums, shoes, cylinders....in fact only bit i haven't done is the master cylinder. Just need to regularly adjust rear shoes which isnt hard.
If strombergs are nik nacked then change to SU or weber/elderbrock

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I'm pretty sure the chassis and bulkhead are fine. Going to strip the wheels off this weekend and have a look then make a presumably long to do list.

 

zeaphod

Well-Known Member

• Apr 17, 2019

• #6

If you're not planning on doing a lot of off-roading the rear drums will be fine - you can leave that for later on. Get the existing system up to scratch first. It's possible/likely the front calipers are seized. You can get refurb kits for the carbs, fit electronic ignition and then she will start easily. Fitting power steering would be a priority for me - should be easy enough if you can get the right brackets and the crank pulley is the right type.

 

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swampy Stephen

Member

• Apr 17, 2019

• #7

zeaphod said:

If you're not planning on doing a lot of off-roading the rear drums will be fine - you can leave that for later on. Get the existing system up to scratch first. It's possible/likely the front calipers are seized. You can get refurb kits for the carbs, fit electronic ignition and then she will start easily. Fitting power steering would be a priority for me - should be easy enough if you can get the right brackets and the crank pulley is the right type.

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Cheers bud. I'm going to leave the power steering until last. That way the mrs cant drive it.

The ignition is done and I have carb kits in the post.

Why are drums not good for off roading?

I have my eyes on the rpi cam and carb kit but I'll start with the important things.

But the kid in me wants to build a beast.

 

zeaphod

Well-Known Member

• Apr 18, 2019

• #8

Drums trap water/crud which can seriously reduce the braking force until it all gets flung out. Not a problem on the road, definitely a problem after wading through more than 30cm of water. If you get them full of really muddy water it's a drum off job to clean them - easily done, but bit of a PITA.

 

suew

Well-Known Member

• Apr 18, 2019

• #9

I've been off roading mine for 6 years with the original rear drums. They are about the only thing I haven't managed to trash YET I like going into the parts shop, giving the reg no and getting the right part without having to know what they are talking about lol.

 

zeaphod

Well-Known Member

• Apr 19, 2019

• #10

suew said:

I've been off roading mine for 6 years with the original rear drums. They are about the only thing I haven't managed to trash YET I like going into the parts shop, giving the reg no and getting the right part without having to know what they are talking about lol.

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As long as you have discs at the front you'll be safe enough outside of an emergency braking situation. In a series with drums all round it's a different matter - been there!

 

zeaphod

Well-Known Member

• Apr 19, 2019

• #11

If you're braking hard with cruddy drums, I find one seems to dry out/start working before the other, which can be interesting.

 

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Colthebrummie

Well-Known Member

• Apr 19, 2019

• #12

If all the seals are leaking except the engine, check to see if the engine has any oil in it cos that's just not natural.

Col

 

Oldseadog

Well-Known Member

• Apr 19, 2019

• #13

If the drums are well set up, they will be fine, even off road.
The only downside of drums is that they tend to wear out faster due to the dried mud acting as a very hard abrasive!
I wouldn't change axles unless the original is completely kernakkered, and even then it is easy enough to replace the diff and half shafts.