bynack

Member

• Oct 31, 2015

• #1

i need a new heater unit in my S3 and
http://www.t7design.co.uk/ seem to have whats needed.
so has anyone fitted one of these in there landy
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-5kw-Lig...er-S1-2-Kit-Car-Westfield-Cobra-/190983218231

 

chrisstdt

Well-Known Member

• Oct 31, 2015

• #2

Not fitted one but i plan to fit one just like it if the smiths heater i have isnt up to the job when i finish my rebuild

If they are good enough for a kit car im sure they will heat a landy

 

blue beasty

Leaks an prone to bits dropping off

• Oct 31, 2015

• #3

They do tend to be a bit rubbish but I suspect seals and a bit of a pathetic blower are the real problem.

A few people have upgraded by using more powerful in line boat fans instead of the snail with good results.

 

bynack

Member

• Oct 31, 2015

• #4

ok there blue beasty second time today! good call, went back to the t7design web page they have these blowers on the site.
http://www.t7design.co.uk/index.php/ventilation/spal-blowers.html
they look like they would fit/ could be made to, along with some new hoses and it would save a lot of hassle though they do a 8.8kw heater for VW campers (12v out of stock at the moment) that one would work for me on the daily school run - in order of priorty 1; defrost the windscreen and melt the ice puddle under the accelerater peddle. 2; defrost the kids on the bench seats in back

 

tacr2man

Well-Known Member

• Oct 31, 2015

• #5

Its a long time ago now , but I always found the standard smith heater OK , I did fit another modified old minivan heater in the rear of a 109 diesel I had . The biggest single improvement is making sure the engine thermostat is operating to spec , and then use a Rad Muff either a fancy bought one or an old fertiliser bag .

 

blue beasty

Leaks an prone to bits dropping off

• Oct 31, 2015

• #6

Even in the ambulance with separate heaters and blowers in the cab and in the back defrosting wasn't brilliant.

Nice and toasty but a serious lack of huff to the screen.

Imo the first step is checking seals and pipes on route to the screen and an uprated blower.

Even if your warming the air nicely defrosting needs a proper wash of air over the screen.

 

chrisstdt

Well-Known Member

• Oct 31, 2015

• #7

Also worth pulling the pipes off at the bulk head and flushing the heater rad both ways with a hose pipe ,you will sometimes get some realy bad sludge out when doing this

 

E

EWG

Active Member

• Oct 31, 2015

• #8

I bought one of these five years ago for my 2a Truck Cab and it's mediocre at best. It was easy to install and that was its redeeming feature.
With hindsight the money I paid would have been better spent on refurbishing my original Smiths heater at Claytons.

 

Bobsticle

De Villes Advocaat

• Oct 31, 2015

• #9

If you replace the electric motor with a decent brushless lump along with an impulse controller you should be able to get the old blades batting at around 1500 rpm. might be worth including a decent bearing or two and deffo balancing the fan or it just might self destruct.

 

Bobsticle

De Villes Advocaat

• Oct 31, 2015

• #10

This one will do 4500 rpm without the fan connected............................ have fun.

 

Bobsticle

De Villes Advocaat

• Oct 31, 2015

• #11

If you look at the stats on ducting air you may find some answers. Corrugated ducting is rubbish at transferring pressure as are bends and the like. We did an experiment on site once with a bathroom extractor fan and 50 feet of ducting. No air came out the other end. Apparently as the turbulence begins increasing down the pipe it just ends up stirring the air rather than pushing it.

 

danb79

Member

• Nov 2, 2015

• #12

that rad is a pc one, you could bolt a 120mm pc fan with controller and save loads of money!!!
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/water-cooling/components/radiators