Nodge68
Well-Known Member
I've not long done this exact job on my MGF.
There's no need to remove the pistons from the liners to reseal the liner land. First off drain and remove the sump and the head.
Next make up some liner clamps. These will stop a repeat of the current situation.
If all liners are loose, all will need to be resealed. Do the liners 2 at a time. I'd 2 and 3 first as it's easy to clamp 2 a joining liners. I'll try to explain how.
Turn the crank so pistons 2 and 3 are right down the bore. This makes getting at the rod caps easy. You will need to remove the oil pickup pipe and oil rail. Mark the rod caps with the piston number and which way is to the front. Also if you can't see the mark on the piston crown, mark this also. Once the caps have been unbolted remove the caps, keeping them safe. Now pull the liners up obe at a time from above. Do number 2 first. Remove the liner clean the land in the block and the register on the bottom of the liner. I push the piston up into the liner to make it easier to handle. Don't turn the piston in the liner as the piston won't seal correctly.
To seal the liner, run a thin bead of Blue Hylomar around the register on the liner. When you are sure there is an unbroken bead of sealer, the liner can be pushed back into the block. Ensure you have the piston/ liner assembly the correct way round.
Repeat the process with piston 3.
Now you need to clamp the newly sealed liners to stop them moving again. The clamps can be made with some 8mm studding, 2 nuts, a short length of tubing and some large washers. The studding is passed down the head bolt holes in the block, secured with a nut top and bottom. Under the top nut goes the washer and short tube. The washers then clamps the liners on opposite sides of the block.
Once clamped, gently press the pistons down the bores so that the rods meet the crank pins. Refit the caps in the correct places and to the correct torque. Because the liners are now clamped, the crank can now be turned to bring 1 and 4 into the correct place to get at the bearing caps. Repeat the process again on liners 1 and 4 remembering to clamp the liners until you are ready to refit the oil rail. Your studding will need to be removed to fit the oil rail. The liners can be clamped again by substituting the studding for head bolts, screwed into the oil rail.
The oil rail needs to be sealed to the block using correct sealant. There is a proper Rover sealer for the task (LVV000108EVA). That's about all there is to it. I'll look out some pictures to post for you too.
A little tip on the K series is always undo the crank pulley with the head on :wink:
There's no need to remove the pistons from the liners to reseal the liner land. First off drain and remove the sump and the head.
Next make up some liner clamps. These will stop a repeat of the current situation.
If all liners are loose, all will need to be resealed. Do the liners 2 at a time. I'd 2 and 3 first as it's easy to clamp 2 a joining liners. I'll try to explain how.
Turn the crank so pistons 2 and 3 are right down the bore. This makes getting at the rod caps easy. You will need to remove the oil pickup pipe and oil rail. Mark the rod caps with the piston number and which way is to the front. Also if you can't see the mark on the piston crown, mark this also. Once the caps have been unbolted remove the caps, keeping them safe. Now pull the liners up obe at a time from above. Do number 2 first. Remove the liner clean the land in the block and the register on the bottom of the liner. I push the piston up into the liner to make it easier to handle. Don't turn the piston in the liner as the piston won't seal correctly.
To seal the liner, run a thin bead of Blue Hylomar around the register on the liner. When you are sure there is an unbroken bead of sealer, the liner can be pushed back into the block. Ensure you have the piston/ liner assembly the correct way round.
Repeat the process with piston 3.
Now you need to clamp the newly sealed liners to stop them moving again. The clamps can be made with some 8mm studding, 2 nuts, a short length of tubing and some large washers. The studding is passed down the head bolt holes in the block, secured with a nut top and bottom. Under the top nut goes the washer and short tube. The washers then clamps the liners on opposite sides of the block.
Once clamped, gently press the pistons down the bores so that the rods meet the crank pins. Refit the caps in the correct places and to the correct torque. Because the liners are now clamped, the crank can now be turned to bring 1 and 4 into the correct place to get at the bearing caps. Repeat the process again on liners 1 and 4 remembering to clamp the liners until you are ready to refit the oil rail. Your studding will need to be removed to fit the oil rail. The liners can be clamped again by substituting the studding for head bolts, screwed into the oil rail.
The oil rail needs to be sealed to the block using correct sealant. There is a proper Rover sealer for the task (LVV000108EVA). That's about all there is to it. I'll look out some pictures to post for you too.
A little tip on the K series is always undo the crank pulley with the head on :wink:
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Mine was faulty and the supplier refunded me. I fitted a Payen BW750 elastopolymer gasket 
