mick the builder

mick the builder

Well-Known Member
95 300tdi. As title says, i thought it was going to just change the seals in the calipers until i took the wheels off. All the calipers are in a bad rusty state but im hoping to clean them. the seals on some of the pistons have failed so will replace them. All the discs are on there last legs and two of the pads are contaminated will oil.( dont think its brake fluid so not sure where its coming from) the brake lines need replacing aswell.:( That said, it still stops better than my 88 with drums on the back and everything working well.
While im changing the discs, will there be any other seals, bearings etc that i will need to order aswell?
Also, steering box is leaking, any views on reseal kits, lr £216 aftermarket £16??????
 
The callipers can rust away to their hearts' content on the outside and it's unlikely to do any harm. The key thing is the condition of the grooves that the seals go in. there's an inner seal that goes in the groove in the slave cylinder bore, and an outer seal that's held in by a kind of push fit retaining ring. As you might imagine, you want nice clean, sharp grooves for the seals to make a good seal against. Pistons tend to deteriorate in my experience and it may be worth replacing them if there's any sign of surface imperfections, as they have to slide in and out on the seals and not let any fluid leak out. I did mine last year and splashed out on stainless ones.

Some people just buy new callipers complete with pistons and seals pre-fitted though.
 
Thank you sir. Uncovered a lot of oily faults yesterday while doing uj,s so new calipers are out for the moment. I already have the seals kit but will now order new pistons. as one inside pad was covered in oil, i suspect new oil seals will have to be ordered. any views on the steering box seal kit?
 
mick the builder said:
Thank you sir. Uncovered a lot of oily faults yesterday while doing uj,s so new calipers are out for the moment. I already have the seals kit but will now order new pistons. as one inside pad was covered in oil, i suspect new oil seals will have to be ordered. any views on the steering box seal kit?
Click to expand...


If you're wanting to do the seals, i'd not go with the LR one - at £216 you could get a recon box for that amount. I'm not sure how easy it is to do the steering box - it was the first thing I did on mine, so went for a recon box and has been fine since - going on three years now
 
mick the builder said:
Thank you sir. Uncovered a lot of oily faults yesterday while doing uj,s so new calipers are out for the moment. I already have the seals kit but will now order new pistons. as one inside pad was covered in oil, i suspect new oil seals will have to be ordered. any views on the steering box seal kit?
Click to expand...

if calipers are quite poor fit new they arent that expensive,apart from been harder to fit dust seal retainer its not uncommon for pad retainer holes to break, if sector shaft isnt too scored or grooved were seal sits resealing is a good fix , i can run through it with you if you like
 
Might be worth replacing the hub seals whilst the hubs are off as that may be where your oil leak is coming from. Mine were OK last time I had my hubs off so I left them alone. It's a good idea to check condition of wheel bearings whilst the hubs are off too. Mine were OK last time I looked, but on the old Series 2 we had when I was a youth the rollers had started breaking up - the case hardening seemed to be peeling off.
 
jamesmartin said:
if calipers are quite poor fit new they arent that expensive,apart from been harder to fit dust seal retainer its not uncommon for pad retainer holes to break, if sector shaft isnt too scored or grooved were seal sits resealing is a good fix , i can run through it with you if you like
Click to expand...

Thanks James, the outside of the calipers are in a bad way but not sure of piston shafts. Unless you know a cheap place to get calipers, buying all four works out a lot at the mo. Would aftermarket or recon be ok. Ive watched a lot of you tube tutorials so i think i can reseal it ok, more worried about getting them off without shearing bolts.

Brown said:
Might be worth replacing the hub seals whilst the hubs are off as that may be where your oil leak is coming from. Mine were OK last time I had my hubs off so I left them alone. It's a good idea to check condition of wheel bearings whilst the hubs are off too. Mine were OK last time I looked, but on the old Series 2 we had when I was a youth the rollers had started breaking up - the case hardening seemed to be peeling off.
Click to expand...

If i just do oil seals, which i too thinks is the cause of the oily pads, can i renew the bearings at a later date without destroying the new seals? its bearings before seals isnt it? I put a recon steering box on my 88 200tdi but the costs are rising at the moment so i need to economise with a reseal.
 
fronts are available from £30 ,if hub seal is leaking you might want to see why there shouldnt be oil in hub on a 300 tdi
 
Going back to the earlier point, it's probably not worth re-using seals as they're pretty cheap.
 
Put Paddock supplied aftemarket callipers on mine about 4 years ago - no problems. Think they were about £35 a corner

Steering box I think I'd be going the recon route as heard of a few not having a lot of success with seal kits
 
Station House said:
Put Paddock supplied aftemarket callipers on mine about 4 years ago - no problems. Think they were about £35 a corner

Steering box I think I'd be going the recon route as heard of a few not having a lot of success with seal kits
Click to expand...

As long as theres no special tools needed, it cant be that difficult. The only difference is using aftermarket seals. £200 difference between lr and the others. will the cheaper seals last.
 
Hi, I would fit the new calipers, the cheap ones I fitted to the rear of my 90 have been fine, I was going to fit new seals but when I stripped the caliper the pistons were pitted and the bore was corroded at the dust shield fitting point..
I would advise washing the bearings out, checking them for wear and if ok repacking with good quality lithium grease. I would also advise you use a good quality 12pt socket to remove the caliper and the discs and that you use new bolts when reassembling, otherwise buy some good thread lock and always use your torque wrench.
Parts:
2 x Drive member gaskets
2 x rear grease seals
10 x Disc bolts (Optional)
4 x Caliper mounting bolts
2 x locking tabs
4 x brake pad pins and springs
brake fluid

Regards, Phil
 
Brown said:
Going back to the earlier point, it's probably not worth re-using seals as they're pretty cheap.
Click to expand...

you can pull hub off and refit without disturbing seal if it wasnt leaking before ,no reason why it would when hubs put back on as long as stub axles clean
 
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