Tomgc61 said:
Thanks again for the information. I'm replacing both suspension airbags next week as one dropped momentarily over the week end so they are probably due for it as you say, they are service items. Hopefully that will be it and all other components of that system are good. The rust I'm very keen to get on with particularly as I want to be able to use it in the poor weather. Do you have to get it up on a lift to do the work? I just restored a very rusty mower deck with an angle grinder and that was a filthy job but easy to get to. Doing the same thing lying on my back is quite another matter! Any advice on that process would be appreciated. I am determined to get it straight underneath though so whatever it takes.

I've only driven it a few miles and while it is not exactly quick it is the most engaging machine to drive. Fantastic viewpoint with the windscreen design which puts the dash quite low and just supremely comfortable and really not in the least out of date in terms of the way its laid out. I was split between this and a more recent l322 but so glad I went for the Discovery.
Click to expand...
Surely not a nice job. When you remove the air bags do the back part of the chassis before you install the new ones. If you want to have more room to work on the frame remove also the fue tank and you will have access to the place inside.
 
I will be certain to check that area - be good to know it's all under control.
berg450 said:
Mine had surface rust on the back 3rd of the chassis. brushed off, passivated and painted. Pay attantion between the fuel tank and the chassis (left side). I have removed the tank and found this area the most critical. The mud can stay there which help corrosion.
Click to expand...
 
If you dare ask the garage to check the state of the chassis behind the airbags when they change them, that and the pocket for the shock on the rear are great places for rust holes.

Oh, and get your EKA code.

Cheers
 
neilly said:
If you dare ask the garage to check the state of the chassis behind the airbags when they change them, that and the pocket for the shock on the rear are great places for rust holes.

Oh, and get your EKA code.

Cheers
Click to expand...
They are only a mile from me so I will hopefully have a look when they do the airbags. How do you get the EKA code?
 
Tomgc61 said:
They are only a mile from me so I will hopefully have a look when they do the airbags. How do you get the EKA code?
Click to expand...

Local dealer should give it to you with proof of ownership free of charge.
Also find a friend who has proper diagnostics for it.
make sure the key works in the drivers door lock, as they sieze.

Cheers
 
berg450 said:
chassis painted.jpg
Click to expand...

Nice work :) Good for you for taking the tank out :eek: ..... :D ( deffo the way to do it )
 
I know it is heresy around here to suggest it, but there are companies who will do this professionally and offer a guarantee to the work.
I'm planning on getting mine done either by Flatdog or Before 'n After in the next few weeks. Both will thoroughly clean the chassis inside and out, remove or stabilise any rust before applying a high quality preservative. Before 'n After also state that they do the inside of the doors and wings which is a plus.
More expensive than doing it yourself, but my logic is that if I get it done properly the first time, it will give me a solid baseline to re-do myself in the future.
 
Si Click said:
I know it is heresy around here to suggest it, but there are companies who will do this professionally and offer a guarantee to the work.
I'm planning on getting mine done either by Flatdog or Before 'n After in the next few weeks. Both will thoroughly clean the chassis inside and out, remove or stabilise any rust before applying a high quality preservative. Before 'n After also state that they do the inside of the doors and wings which is a plus.
More expensive than doing it yourself, but my logic is that if I get it done properly the first time, it will give me a solid baseline to re-do myself in the future.
Click to expand...
I will check them out. If the rust seems more extensive than I can cope with then probably a good option but do they go to the trouble of removing all surface rust with abrasives or are they just steam and pressure cleaning?
 
Last edited:
Si Click said:
I know it is heresy around here to suggest it, but there are companies who will do this professionally and offer a guarantee to the work.
I'm planning on getting mine done either by Flatdog or Before 'n After in the next few weeks. Both will thoroughly clean the chassis inside and out, remove or stabilise any rust before applying a high quality preservative. Before 'n After also state that they do the inside of the doors and wings which is a plus.
More expensive than doing it yourself, but my logic is that if I get it done properly the first time, it will give me a solid baseline to re-do myself in the future.
Click to expand...
This is what i plan to do as well, but before i want to do the critical parts. I am sure they do a professional job but surely they will not remove parts like fuel tank or air bags. Next job for me to do the area behind the airbags and after take it for a professional treatment.
 
Si Click said:
I know it is heresy around here to suggest it, but there are companies who will do this professionally and offer a guarantee to the work.
I'm planning on getting mine done either by Flatdog or Before 'n After in the next few weeks. Both will thoroughly clean the chassis inside and out, remove or stabilise any rust before applying a high quality preservative. Before 'n After also state that they do the inside of the doors and wings which is a plus.
More expensive than doing it yourself, but my logic is that if I get it done properly the first time, it will give me a solid baseline to re-do myself in the future.
Click to expand...

I'd suggest a search on here regarding the latter of the two firms you mention......... ( I think the former also appeared on here years ago - seemed good then ....)

IMHO and IME, the ONLY was this job will get done properly is if you do it yourself ..... ask me how I know*

(*Actually, don't.... SWMBO's D1 chassis was the victim of a supposedly high quality "underseal" , er, "treatment", which included the front swivels :rolleyes: )
 
Have just had this up on the ramp at the specialist workshop and it appears ok -ish. The rust that is apparent is surface and wood metal underneath. The worst area is the rear section but the rest from the rear wheels forwards is only very light. The air bag that doesn't drop appears new so not going to replace that.
IMG_0663.JPG
IMG_0655.JPG
IMG_0659.JPG
IMG_0662.JPG
IMG_0656.JPG
 
Even mine was a bit better the place betwen the left side chassis and the fuel tank was quite rusty. If you want to treat (underseal) yours, remove the tank and clean that area before.
do you have oil in the transfer box? Looks too dry:)
 
berg450 said:
Even mine was a bit better the place betwen the left side chassis and the fuel tank was quite rusty. If you want to treat (underseal) yours, remove the tank and clean that area before.
do you have oil in the transfer box? Looks too dry:)
Click to expand...
What is the process for removing the fuel tank? Imagine that is a fairly lengthy task but maybe worth it if something nasty lurking behind there!
 
Tomgc61 said:
What is the process for removing the fuel tank? Imagine that is a fairly lengthy task but maybe worth it if something nasty lurking behind there!
Click to expand...
Not a diffcult task. make sure that the tank is almost empty so you will not need to drain much fuel (otherwise the tank will be heavy to remove).
You will need to pull back loadspace carpet (for this you will need to remove D post trim casing) to get access to fuel pump. Disconnect it, remove and drain fuel. Then you can work under the car to disconnect hoses, remove 2 bolts and 2 nuts and lower tank.
But google this "discovery 2 fuel tank removal" and you will find videos, descriptions about it.
 
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