B

bazbar

Member
I have fitted another diesel injection pump on my 2.5 BMW engine p38and have some problems i need to solve.
Are the pumps coded?
When we removed the old pump we made some markings to ensure we refitted the new pump in place without having to time the pump.
The engine started with a pinking but would not run, cuts out straight after starting. We tried putting a foot on the accelerator which made no difference. So the engine starts, but will not run and will not accelerate, could this be a pump timing issue or fly by wire problem?

Any help would be appreciated
 
Was it a pump from a p38 also did you get it checked before fitting

I would say pump timing is out you cnt just mark it and refit it, it need to be timed correctly, did u make sure you got the correct hole on.the fly wheel as there is two holes very close to tdc also did u make sure the woodruff key on the pump didn't fall out when reinserting the pump

I would say time the pump correctly and if you done the rest right you shouls be ok unless it a duff second hand pump
 
Cheers Matt
the pump was from a P38 with the correct identifications numbers, we did make sure we got the right hole, just maybe thought we could get away by cheating and marking it up.
The pump was second hand from a dealer who informed it was good and came with 6 month warranty.
 
I would time it correctly get it to run and then get it scanned for faults with a print out so u know it is ok

May I ask why did you change the pump did u have a code in the system like fuel actuator
 
Pump needs to be timed properly you CANNOT just stick one on and hope that timing falls as specified +- 0.001". Cannot be done.
 
the fault was fuel actuator, this was the only fault showing, the crank sensor was checked as well and that was ok, all the checks where done whilst driving.
dealt with a BMW guy who told me it would be the diesel pump.
,
 
Hi all
had another go at setting the timing and got some bad knocking noises when we started it up.
the settings we got from the dtf gauge where 0.9mm-0.91mm which i thought would be ok, but still not running, starts but with alot of noise.
Any suggestions welcome before i strip the pump back out to check and put back in.
 
bazbar said:
Hi all
had another go at setting the timing and got some bad knocking noises when we started it up.
the settings we got from the dtf gauge where 0.9mm-0.91mm which i thought would be ok, but still not running, starts but with alot of noise.
Any suggestions welcome before i strip the pump back out to check and put back in.
Click to expand...

Did you follow the RAVE sequence for zeroing DTI then fitting crank lock pin. Then adjusting cam lift by rotating pump, last movement towards engine? You do of course have all the injector pipes in the correct place i take it.
 
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We did follow RAVE, but we are going to remove the pump and start again just ensure we have fitted everything correctly, just trying to source a timing pin for the flywheel, we didn't use a BMW one and feel we may have got it wrong there.
 
I dint use the bmw tool a nice punch did the trick

I reckon you have got the wrong hole for tdc on the flywheel there is three holes the top and bottom hole goes to the flexi and the middle one is tdc

You may have got the wrong hole and have set it up via that and now you are kising the valves hence tour noise and non start

Don't remove the pump just yet try amd get the correct hole on flywheel first and see where the first lobe on camshaft faces and see where you are at

Also do you have the camshaft locking tool and the feeler guages to adjust the chain for strecht

Also where r u located
 
matt1987 said:
I dint use the bmw tool a nice punch did the trick

I reckon you have got the wrong hole for tdc on the flywheel there is three holes the top and bottom hole goes to the flexi and the middle one is tdc

You may have got the wrong hole and have set it up via that and now you are kising the valves hence tour noise and non start

Don't remove the pump just yet try amd get the correct hole on flywheel first and see where the first lobe on camshaft faces and see where you are at

Also do you have the camshaft locking tool and the feeler guages to adjust the chain for strecht

Also where r u located
Click to expand...

You don't need the cam tool to time the pump. Chain stretch on pump timing is allowed for by the two different settings 0.95mm or 0.90mm after 20,000 Km +- 0.02 mm. How can he be kissing the valves he removed the pump not the camshaft. Unless he has tried to do it without sprocket holder and chain has jumped a tooth or two. He needs to look in through filler hole and make sure cam is sat flat at TDC with pin in place.
 
I'm located in Grimsby
My rangie run ok just loss of power on deceleration, having fault codes read and speaking to a BMW mechanic, they all confirmed diesel pump, that is the reason for changing.
my mechanic has never done one before so we entering a new field, we used a punch the same as you Matt but we suspect that we didn't get it right and he is also suspect the way the pump tightened in place, this is the reason for removing and replacing.
I suspect we may advanced the timing to far. But we want to start from the beginning and was just posting on here for possible solutions.
now i know there are 3 holes i can double check we have the right one as we have been using a camera.
 
bazbar said:
I'm located in Grimsby
My rangie run ok just loss of power on deceleration, having fault codes read and speaking to a BMW mechanic, they all confirmed diesel pump, that is the reason for changing.
my mechanic has never done one before so we entering a new field, we used a punch the same as you Matt but we suspect that we didn't get it right and he is also suspect the way the pump tightened in place, this is the reason for removing and replacing.
I suspect we may advanced the timing to far. But we want to start from the beginning and was just posting on here for possible solutions.
now i know there are 3 holes i can double check we have the right one as we have been using a camera.
Click to expand...

To check TDC number one, you take the oil filler cap off and look inside. Turn engine until cam lobes are laying in an almost flat V with lobes points opposing each other. Then insert crank pin by nudging engine either way until it slips in. You need to set DTI reading a couple of mm then rotate pump away from engine until DTI stops dropping as it hits null point of cam. Then zero it. Then move pump towards engine until you get 0.90mm +- 0.02mm. Nuts on pump must be minimally loose. Last adjustment of pump MUST be towards engine. In other words don't set the 0.90 by rotating pump away from engine. Always towards it.
 
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Good Evening Wammers
is that the correct procedure?
due to reading your procedure it is difference from the one in RAVE, in rave it says cam lobe pointing vertical, then fit dial gauge and preload by 2mm, then rotate engine to null point, setting dial gauge then insert timing pin.
We followed the procedure in RAVE which we believe has given us an incorrect reading.
 
bazbar said:
Good Evening Wammers
is that the correct procedure?
due to reading your procedure it is difference from the one in RAVE, in rave it says cam lobe pointing vertical, then fit dial gauge and preload by 2mm, then rotate engine to null point, setting dial gauge then insert timing pin.
We followed the procedure in RAVE which we believe has given us an incorrect reading.
Click to expand...


The description in RAVE is for checking the pump timing without slackening pump. It finds the null point on the cam to zero the DTI without moving the pump. But when number one is at TDC with pin in place the cam should form a flat Vee. That is what i was trying to get over. Showing both valves closed on compression. If the pin is in and the cam is not in this position you have the wrong hole position. If you have number one at TDC with pin in there should be enough movement on pump mounting slots to find null point of cam. But if not by all means use the RAVE way of finding it and zeroing DTI.
 
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