Landyfox

Well-Known Member
Can anyone suggest the best place to purchase a new replacement X Member and tear exhaust tail pipe and silencer to fit a 90 300TDI (Needs to be cost effective as money is a premium just before Christmas) Thanks guys!
 
Hmm...'cost effective'. In my (limited) experience, those two words aren't heard at all when related to rebuilding/repairing a Land Rover!
I replaced my cross member with a Blacksheep fabricated steel jobby which should last a lifetime, so I figured that WAS cost effective. It's just everything else that it's attached to isn't :)
Can't help with the exhaust I'm afraid.
 
TBH... I just want cheap to get through MOT, I'm hoping to put a new Galvanised Chassis on it next March.
 
Cheap equals steel plate tacked on with some filler and plenty of black paint, I certainly wouldnt go to the hassle of a new xmember then 6 months later fit a new chassis.
 
I fitted one of Pressbrakes crossmembers (Black sheep offroad), I won't need to ever fit another one, that's pretty cost effective, especially seeing as it cost the same to have fitted as a cheap one, but was only slightly dearer.
 
I fitted one of Pressbrakes crossmembers (Black sheep offroad), I won't need to ever fit another one, that's pretty cost effective, especially seeing as it cost the same to have fitted as a cheap one, but was only slightly dearer.

Got one in my shed. Bought it when he was closing up, not needed it yet.

That is right, the steel is much thicker than standard, it wouldnt rust out in a lifetime. As you say, wasnt a lot of money either.
 
TBH... I just want cheap to get through MOT, I'm hoping to put a new Galvanised Chassis on it next March.
Couldn't you just get it patched to get it through the MOT?

False economy if you're going to replace the chassis anyway! why don't just do that now?
 
Couldn't you just get it patched to get it through the MOT?

False economy if you're going to replace the chassis anyway! why don't just do that now?
I agree, perfect option.... I just need to find someone to give me a hand to weld it. Due to illnes I can't bend down and weld at the minute. I'm heavily dependent on help at the minute until I've had surgery.
 
Clive doesn't make them anymore tho does he.?! I thought he packed a few years ago?!

If he (Pressbreskers) were still making them, I'd jump at the chance of getting one of his!
 
a new x-member price also depends on if you need just the basic back bit (c £90) or one with extensions (c £160)
 
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It will 99.999 percent need one with extensions.
I fitted pressbrake one mutts nuts, I think he did them way to cheap especially for the quality, sadly people wont pay for quality anymore.
 
Clive doesn't make them anymore tho does he.?! I thought he packed a few years ago?!

If he (Pressbreskers) were still making them, I'd jump at the chance of getting one of his!

He said on the forum he was packing in, and I bought one, maybe four years ago.
I am not sure, but he may have started up again, no idea if it lasted.
If he is still on the forum, might be worth a PM.
As above, I thought it was way under what it should have cost, if he does still make them they may be more expensive.
 
Thanks BB

I've called him and emailed... wish me luck lol

'S OK but I'm not sure why you'd want to fit a Black Sheep cross member as a temp stop gap.

It doesn't need to be pretty to get through an mot, I'd get it patched.

Agricultural mechanics are usually quite handy with a torch and don't charge like a engineering shop or specialist welder.

They also tend to understand technical terms like 'I don't mind what it looks like so long as it dunt fall orf'
 
If I put Clive's cross member on, I won't change the chassis just yet as it's generally sound. The whole purpose was to do a full rebuild next using a new galvanised chassis with TD5 mounts so that I can fit a TD5 rear tub.
 
'S OK but I'm not sure why you'd want to fit a Black Sheep cross member as a temp stop gap.

It doesn't need to be pretty to get through an mot, I'd get it patched.

Agricultural mechanics are usually quite handy with a torch and don't charge like a engineering shop or specialist welder.

They also tend to understand technical terms like 'I don't mind what it looks like so long as it dunt fall orf'

I always go to the local tractor place for bushes pressed out and so on. They are much better at dealing with landrover stuff than the average garage.

I have better options for welding, but they will always have a competent welder on hand as well!
 
If I put Clive's cross member on, I won't change the chassis just yet as it's generally sound. The whole purpose was to do a full rebuild next using a new galvanised chassis with TD5 mounts so that I can fit a TD5 rear tub.

Not really looked into it, but I am sure there are easier routes to a new tub than that. I would have thought just welding a few new brackets on the old chassis, but that is not from my own experience.
 

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