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Krysia

New Member
Hello, I really am hoping that some of you very knowledgable people on here can help me as I don't know what else to do. I had the clutch replaced on my 05 td4 5 months ago. When I say replaced it has in total been 3 times with new parts each time. They have replaced the clutch, master cylinder and slave cylinder each time. It works ok for a few days then gets progressively more difficult to change gears until the point, usually 7-10 days when it doesn't at all. They bleed the system then all is ok for the next few days. Each time they have replaced everything and the exact same thing happens again :(

The garage has said they don't know what else to do and I've to scrap it! I love my car and have had it since new. I thought I would have it for a very long time. Now the gear box has broken and they say I need new rods. They say this is nothing to do with me forcing it into gear for the last 5 months but I'm not so sure? So, what on earth do I do? If a Land Rover garage (independent) can't fix this is it time to say goodbye?? I'm absolutely gutted :(
 
if a mechanic said they couldn't fix something by repair or replacment, then i wouldn't call them a mechanic.
 
Sorry to hear of your troubles. NO WAY scrap it !
The gearbox rods I can't help with, but I have posted several times on the clutch issue with a TD4. Please search my threads. Basically the push rod in the master does not travel to the bottom and air gets trapped. Some put a weight or rod and jam the clutch down overnight with the bleed open, I have removed the circlip from the master, removed the push rod, replaced the circlip, pushed the cylinder right down (with a longer rod or screwdriver) whilst bleeding. This has worked on several TD4 manuals that I have had with the bit point in the floor. Longer push rod will give higher bite point as a last resort. Good luck..
 
Wow! Thanks andyfreelandy :) sounds like the best piece of advice! I will have a look at your threads and show the man. Thank you :)
 
Also do you drive with your foot resting on the pedal? Cuz if you do slap yourself on the wrist... I have known many clutch bleeding problems due to lazyfootitis.. :eek:
 
trax said:
if a mechanic said they couldn't fix something by repair or replacment, then i wouldn't call them a mechanic.
Click to expand...

This^^^^
You need to find a mechanic that can actually fix the problem. The Freelander's clutch system isn't anything out of the ordinary these days. The linkages are easy to change too.
 
Haha easier said than done! Where would you start?? I go to this garage as it has a good reputation and everybody recommends it. It seems to just be my car that has a problem :(
 
The problem with most LR specialists. Is they are great with series, defenders and discos.... When it comes to hippos they don't really know or want to know them.

Gear linkages are a simple change and the bushes etc often wear out anyway. There must be a slight leak in the hydraulic system somewhere. There is no other explanation for the clutch to gradually get worse and then work after bleeding.
 
ZDomZ said:
The problem with most LR specialists. Is they are great with series, defenders and discos.... When it comes to hippos they don't really know or want to know them.

Gear linkages are a simple change and the bushes etc often wear out anyway. There must be a slight leak in the hydraulic system somewhere. There is no other explanation for the clutch to gradually get worse and then work after bleeding.
Click to expand...

ZDOMZ is talking sense here^^^^
The TD4 Freelander has more in common with a Rover 75 than a Land Rover of old. ;)
 
Yes, he's agreed there's air getting in somewhere but he just doesn't know where as he's replaced everything so many times. I phoned him and read out what andyfreelandy had written and he said that works on defenders and discoveries but not freelanders. He said that was a sure fire way to fu_k up a freelander! He said if I was happy for him to try that then he would but he didn't seem keen. I think he likes freelanders haha as he has an old one himself that he kindly lends me when mine is trying to get fixed :)
 
if there is air getting into the system you mechanic is doing something wrong as said before if you do not expel all the air you will get a **** clutch I have two freelanders and have extended the rod on one of them tell him to try it and fixing the rods is not a big job
 
Myself and a couple of others on here recently have had the same problem, and it turned out to be bad quality parts in the quick release coupling between master and slave cylinder, which were leaking and allowing air in.
Seems to be a problem with the female side on slave cylinders made by Borg and Beck in particular.

A solution is to bin off the quick release part and fit standard brake pipe fittings in its place, which requires a bit of copper brake pipe to replace the plastic pipe on the master cylinder.
Joining this copper pipe to the master cylinder isnt obvious. The other chap tapped and threaded the bottom of the cylinder, but he was still having problems of some kind. I braised a brake pipe fitting to the metal barb on the master cylinder. This is also now leaking, annoyingly, and I think its maybe because the copper pipe doesnt compensate for the rocking movement of the engine like the plastic does. Perhaps the solution is a flexi hose.
 
Thanks freelander1958 I will show him this whole post. I'm determined my car will be fixed and won't need to scrap it! Dave21478 that sounds too complicated for me but again I will show him. I'll keep pestering him with your ideas until something works :) thank you
 
I would agreed that the b&b slave is rubbish. I also suffer from this after a recent replacement. I bleed it every few months which does the job but out of interest how are people extending the masters rod?
 
Everything is meant to be preblead. You just fit it and plug the ends together and hey presto it works. I've tried bleeding them and it always seem to do what yours is. ie fit new slave and keep the old master. But the masters I've changed came from euro car parts (can't remember the make) worked as soon as you plug em in with no bleeding.
 
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