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b9boy

Member
So it's finally happened and our beloved 1999 Td5 110 has failed its MOT on rust. It's an original example that's only had one small weld on a front outrigger so suppose it' ultimately done well.

Looking at the holes I suspect t could be welded but also suspect we might be just prolonging the inevitable.

I'd welcome recommendations on where to have a new chassis fitted and also any advice/tips on things we might need to consider because we don't know what we don't know!!

We are based in Preston, Lancashire but happy to have the vehicle transported further afield if there are excellent places we should consider.

All advice gratefully received!!
 
I did mine myself as have a few on here. It's very labour Intensive and lots of parts need or should be replaced at the same time. Lots of the bolts will be u/s, exhaust, brake pipes, dampers, probably springs, all bushes etc etc.
It's not difficult to re chassis just lots to do, you may find tha bulkhead needs work too.
Above all, get a galvanised chassis, it'll add ££££££ to the value.
 
Thanks for that. I will go galvanised I think. The more I look at the holes the MOT garage have exposed/created the more I think it will weld up OK because the main chassis areas still look solid BUT I can see the bigger picture and a galvanised chassis will be needed at some point so might as well bite the bullet given the family LOVE the Landy.

Broadly speaking does whatever the chassis costs just effectively add the same amount to the value or is it say 50 pence in the pound?
 
If you bring it to a garage they lift the body off, roll out the rolling chassis then swap all the rolling chassis parts across onto the new chassis. They then lower the body back down and bolt it all up.

One or two things about that, if the rest of the vehicls has issues they probably wont be addressed, if the body is a pile of old pants you will have a pile of old pants sat ontop of a new chassis. The body, although made from alliminium , also corrodes. The bulkhead could have issues that will go unseen, you will still have an old vehicle but with a new bit underneath. It will cost a lot of money.

If you do it yourself you will most likely pull the whole thing apart, you will see what the garage couldnt, you will replace everything that needs replacing, you will rebuild everything, you will end up to some extent with a new vehicle, you will learn all about how your vehicle is put together, you will learn how to repair and maintain it, you will know it inside out, it will cost a lot of money but you will be working to a budget and not be throwing money at someone elses budget. It will be built to your specifics, how you want it, you can incorperate any modifications during the rebuild.

Those are basically your options.

There is a lot of information out there regarding rebuilding Land Rovers, lots of facebook groups aimed at every aspect from vehicle electrics to hybrids, lots of options for cheap but decent tool kits, its a lot to consider.
 
I've almost finished rebuilding a 110 200tdi onto a new galvanised chassis and bulkhead for a friend. If you have the space and time i'd definately recomend doing the work yourself - you will spend a lot more but have a much better vehicle at the end of if, and know how everything works.
I fitted a sheilder chassis and bulkhead which i would recomend - no major issues.
 
I think nobber has summed the situation up well there. If you're not frightened of getting your hands dirty, you're practical and can use tools quite competently, then doing it yourself is a very worthwhile experience. There's free help on here from a lot of people with a great deal of experience. It will cost you a lot more, because you will do a far better job than a standard lift the body off and drop it on a new chassis. But, nobber has already explained that.
 
howlingj said:
I've almost finished rebuilding a 110 200tdi onto a new galvanised chassis and bulkhead for a friend. If you have the space and time i'd definately recomend doing the work yourself - you will spend a lot more but have a much better vehicle at the end of if, and know how everything works.
I fitted a sheilder chassis and bulkhead which i would recomend - no major issues.
Click to expand...

I have never heard anyone recommend Shielder Chassis, wow! My personal experience with them would suggest to everyone to run away from them. Don’t waste time and money on them.

@b9boy what @nobber has posted is about the best advice anyone can give someone who is looking to do a rebuild. I had never changed a chassis by myself, but had worked on defenders in the past. I replaced my chassis and bulkhead for galvanised items. It took around 48-50 weeks for me to do it, that includes a huge **** on with Shielder which delayed the build by 5-6 weeks and an 8 week lead time from GKN (Marsland Chassis) for the new chassis. I also resprayed the vehicle a different colour, and replaced everything that needed doing. In total I spent something like £9-10K, that includes the £3K on the chassis and bulkhead. It’s a huge cost that I probably won’t get back anytime soon.
 
mick 1986 said:
I have never heard anyone recommend Shielder Chassis, wow! My personal experience with them would suggest to everyone to run away from them. Don’t waste time and money on them.

@b9boy what @nobber has posted is about the best advice anyone can give someone who is looking to do a rebuild. I had never changed a chassis by myself, but had worked on defenders in the past. I replaced my chassis and bulkhead for galvanised items. It took around 48-50 weeks for me to do it, that includes a huge **** on with Shielder which delayed the build by 5-6 weeks and an 8 week lead time from GKN (Marsland Chassis) for the new chassis. I also resprayed the vehicle a different colour, and replaced everything that needed doing. In total I spent something like £9-10K, that includes the £3K on the chassis and bulkhead. It’s a huge cost that I probably won’t get back anytime soon.
Click to expand...

Yes there are a lot of negative reviews but i had a good experiance - maybe just lucky or they are better now. Only issue with the chassis and bulkhead was the top door hinge holes which needed moving forwards about 5mm. Just about to fit another sheilder bulkhead so hopefully that fits as well
 
In my experience it's definitely worth budgeting for a replacement clutch and springs/shocks. These are much easier to change while the body is off. I went for a Richard's Chassis, supplied and fitted by Trevor Cuthbert Landrovers. Highly recommended, but not handy for you.
 
Thanks all this is very useful advice and to hear how other people tackled the job. I would dearly ;like to work on the vehicle myself but I'm simply not mechanically minded enough nor have a unit to work in so I will need to employ the professionals to get it done. I'll try and get some pics of the rust up so you can see what I'm working with.

Any idea by the way on a rough cost for the extra items like springs and shocks?
 
Hard to tell, you need to clean the crap off.... First glance your main chassis rail looks ok but when you look at the hole in the bracket above it thats quite bad.

All fixable. Dont go the whole chassis replacement route if you want to use it any time soon. It takes TIME MONEY and PATIENCE and you may lose the love of the vehicle whilst doing it.
 
A lot of that isnt on the chassis, and what is is repairable, I would get what I can patched then get some oil into it. Some of that is on the bulkhead, Id be more worried about that than a few patches on the chassis.
 
Thanks again for the comments.

Which bits are bulkhead related just so I understand what is what?

If it can be welded that's great but I don't want to keep patching if ultimately it will all end the same way (new chassis)
 
b9boy said:
Thanks again for the comments.

Which bits are bulkhead related just so I understand what is what?

If it can be welded that's great but I don't want to keep patching if ultimately it will all end the same way (new chassis)
Click to expand...


b9boy said:













Hopefully these pics will come through OK??
Click to expand...

So, from the top;

1- C Post bottom of Second Row Seatbox - awkward but can be patched
2- Underside of same location, Seat Box support Beam - replaceable, a pig to get out (YRM do a bolt in version) Tub support Bracket has a hole in it,but it rots inside out - so top of chassis rail will probably have a hole in it to. Can be patched.
3-Rear Crossmember - designed to trap muck and rot inside out, Can be patched but better to replace with a decent version that’s has been internally rustproofed.
4- Same as 2
5- Drivers Chassis outrigger already patched - chop off and replace with solid new
6- Drivers Shock Tower - They all rust out there eventually unless galvanised, replaceable with new part, plus bolts retainers etc.

By the time you’ve chopped, cleaned, prepped and paid a good welder to patch plus parts/consumables - I’d go replacement chassis as it will give you peace of mind (excepting bankruptcy)

I’m going 1/2 Chassis (non Galv but treated) on mine as the front is solid, but the rear half is Swiss cheese - add in the bushes, dampers, bolts and odds/sods and I’m into £1600…..

Bonne Chance!
 
nobber / slomofo - thanks for those posts - super helpful.

Is there a realistic ballpark for a full chassis once you've done the extras like suspension, clutch and brake lines i.e. what should I assume I'd be in for? I am sitting down so you can just hit me with it...
 
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