saxmanuk · Nov 4, 2020

Hello all
Been a fair while since I posted - maybe 5 yrs! - anyway Leaky the Landy failed its MOT and so since I have not really tinkered for the last 5 yrs or so I am gonna get a new chassis soon and as a winter project replace said chassis. Will post pics of progress and no doubt be asking questions along the way! some relevant and no doubt some stupid ones.
6 years ago I completely stripped and rebuilt the 110 CSW so am hoping the work I did then is still ok - but I can see that the springs and the work I did replacing bushes etc. look rusty and tired already!
So I will be asking opinions on the best springs and shocks and bushes etc. no doubt - I will be searching 1st and will not fall into the same trap as asking about which wheels and tyres etc.

I have newbie questions covered haha. So hello again and let the games begin - Sean

Al2O3 · Nov 4, 2020

saxmanuk said:
Hello all
Been a fair while since I posted - maybe 5 yrs! - anyway Leaky the Landy failed its MOT and so since I have not really tinkered for the last 5 yrs or so I am gonna get a new chassis soon and as a winter project replace said chassis. Will post pics of progress and no doubt be asking questions along the way! some relevant and no doubt some stupid ones.
6 years ago I completely stripped and rebuilt the 110 CSW so am hoping the work I did then is still ok - but I can see that the springs and the work I did replacing bushes etc. look rusty and tired already!
So I will be asking opinions on the best springs and shocks and bushes etc. no doubt - I will be searching 1st and will not fall into the same trap as asking about which wheels and tyres etc. I have newbie questions covered haha. So hello again and let the games begin - Sean

New Defenders can look rusty after 6 years!

dag019 · Nov 5, 2020

saxmanuk said:
6 years ago I completely stripped and rebuilt the 110 CSW so am hoping the work I did then is still ok - but I can see that the springs and the work I did replacing bushes etc. look rusty and tired already!

6 years of mud and road salt I would say the work has lasted fairly well. I don't think there is much on mine I have not touched for 6 years!

saxmanuk · Nov 30, 2020

So - Chassis has arrived ! (Marshlands or KDR) as they were polite & very knowledgeable and offered a great service - I did ring a few suppliers
I made a wooden Dolly for it - it was easy to pull the chassis off the delivery van straight onto it
Its now in my garage awaiting the 1st coat of T- Wash

Colthebrummie · Nov 30, 2020

Nice, I like the dolly. Where are you going to do chassis swap? Outside?

Col

Resurgam · Nov 30, 2020

Can't beat a brand new chassis. So shiny it's almost a shame to put T-wash on it. It's going to be a bit tight doing a rebuild in there, but if you can keep it tidy you might just manage it!

v8250 · Nov 30, 2020

Resurgam said:
It's going to be a bit tight doing a rebuild in there, but if you can keep it tidy you might just manage it!

I would offer the space if my dining room, conservatory, two sheds, garage and 6.2m x 3.3m tent but they're already full of Land Rover parts

Litch · Nov 30, 2020

I did a step by step chassis change thread earlier this year (started 1st April when the weather was warmer / drier) so take a look if interested?
Search for - 300TDi 90 replacement chassis
I did make mention of the amount of T-Wash, etch primer etc that I used as I couldn't find anywhere how much people had used when doing their rebuilds.

With me it wasn't so much an issue in making a dolly as I had no need to move the chassis around, what I did want to do however was to be able to rotate it so I could prep, paint & treat the underside of the chassis just as easily as the topside and for that the hoist was a godsend as it allowed me to rotate the chassis at will. When sitting upright I supported it on the (new) bumpstops and built up almost the whole vehicle before putting the axles & suspension underneath.

Reading a current chassis swop thread on another forum the chap did not take note of the need to drill the chassis for pipe clips etc before painting, doing a dry run up-front means you don't have to go back and make good where you have had to drill through your nice new paint.

saxmanuk · Dec 6, 2020

Colthebrummie said:
Nice, I like the dolly. Where are you going to do chassis swap? Outside?

Col

Gonna try and do all the suspension first and make it a rolling chassis. Then do the wiring. Then literally remove the engine and gearbox do a 180 and drop into the new chassis. Once done remove roof then swap tub and bulkhead etc. Push out into the drive and replace the roof. That’s the plan anyway ! Haha

saxmanuk · Dec 6, 2020

Litch said:
I did a step by step chassis change thread earlier this year (started 1st April when the weather was warmer / drier) so take a look if interested?
Search for - 300TDi 90 replacement chassis
I did make mention of the amount of T-Wash, etch primer etc that I used as I couldn't find anywhere how much people had used when doing their rebuilds.

With me it wasn't so much an issue in making a dolly as I had no need to move the chassis around, what I did want to do however was to be able to rotate it so I could prep, paint & treat the underside of the chassis just as easily as the topside and for that the hoist was a godsend as it allowed me to rotate the chassis at will. When sitting upright I supported it on the (new) bumpstops and built up almost the whole vehicle before putting the axles & suspension underneath.

Reading a current chassis swop thread on another forum the chap did not take note of the need to drill the chassis for pipe clips etc before painting, doing a dry run up-front means you don't have to go back and make good where you have had to drill through your nice new paint.

Thanks ! I will have a read through your thread

saxmanuk · Dec 6, 2020

So. T washed. Then red oxide and 1st coat of Matt black top coat. Am gonna keep painting coats until my 5 litre is finished! Most likely 3 coats. Am planning to spray some hammerite wax oil inside the areas I couldn’t get into with my paint brush.
On a slightly worried note I noticed my rear crossmember actually bends in about 4mm on both sides (from the elevated view) is this normal for a puma chassis? I read somewhere else that from older td5 onwards they all do ?

Litch · Dec 6, 2020

Did you removed the gearbox crossmember to paint behind it?
Although I brush painted the etch primer & chassis black I did spray the inaccessible areas and the rear crossmember as it gives a nicer finish, that said the Frosts Extreme Chassis Black (Satin) went on so smoothly that you can't see any brush-marks anyway.
Don't forget to use grease on every fixing, pays dividends in years to come. I used over a tub when I did my rebuild.

Colthebrummie · Dec 6, 2020

I wonder why everyone seems to paint their chassis black. If I was doing one, I'd consider summat different, maybe landrover green.

Col

v8250 · Dec 6, 2020

Cool Vintage in Portugal do some funky chassis paintwork...

##

And some very smart looking Land Rovers https://www.coolnvintage.com/process

Litch · Dec 6, 2020

"I wonder why everyone seems to paint their chassis black."

Personal choice.
I have seen plenty painted all different colours over the years (red / blue / green / yellow / orange / silver etc) plus of course lots left in plain galv but personally I like black as it is unobtrusive as well as being original. If you want to make a statement then go ahead and use a different colour (I painted the Salisbury axle on my S111 SWB V8 yellow for instance) but it is a part of the vehicle that isn't really visible and is subject to a lot of abuse (road salt, dirt, mud, stone chips etc).
I don't mind going away from originality (the bulkhead on my 90 is bare galv as are the cappings and many other steel parts) but somehow black on a chassis just looks "right".

saxmanuk · Dec 7, 2020

Litch said:
Did you removed the gearbox crossmember to paint behind it?
Although I brush painted the etch primer & chassis black I did spray the inaccessible areas and the rear crossmember as it gives a nicer finish, that said the Frosts Extreme Chassis Black (Satin) went on so smoothly that you can't see any brush-marks anyway.
Don't forget to use grease on every fixing, pays dividends in years to come. I used over a tub when I did my rebuild.

Good call on the gearbox crossmember ! I will remove and paint behind that

saxmanuk · Jan 24, 2021

So a little sunshine and warmer yesterday so I started to strip down the Landy - photos are self-evident why it needs a new chassis! Hopefully the other wing off today.
New springs and shocks will be required.
Question though - what are thoughts on methods of cleaning other suspension and axle components of oil and surface rust and what paint do we use to give long life and stop corrosion?
thanks Sean

Litch · Jan 24, 2021

Depends on your budget but certain things I would replace just because you currently have the perfect chance to do it plus it saves on refurbishment time. If you consider the old parts to still be serviceable then there will always be someone willing to buy them from you.
Springs, shocks, turrets, bushes, fixings, TRE's etc are all items that I would replace (along with those bulkhead support brackets and probably F&R wing stays).
Radius-arms, A-frame and steering tubes I would clean up (I used a rotary wire-brush, works wonders) and after prepping finish off with a nice coating of chassis black.

The photo below for instance shows what one of my A-frame arms looks like after only a short amount of time with the rotary wire-wheel (I took the photo mainly to show how I remove old bushes prior to the Super-Pro ones going in, took only 5-minutes). With the old bush out I then finished cleaning it up and got stuck in with the painting.

To protect the bottom of the bulkhead I thoroughly recommend fitting Gwyn Lewis Defender Front Outrigger Mud Shields - GL1010, I fitted a set back in 2013 and when I took the bulkhead off last year the area behind them (including the brackets) was completely untouched by road dirt / salt.
I was so impressed that this time I also fitted their Defender Rear X-Member Mud Shields and Defender Front Of Rear Wheel Mud Shield.
Well made, good price, easy to fit and very worthwhile.

saxmanuk · Jan 25, 2021

Thanks for the detailed response
Was just looking at the super pro kit on the Gwyn Lewis website and interesting how you drilled the old bushes out.
Will look for the mud shields as well
Cheers

Litch said:
Depends on your budget but certain things I would replace just because you currently have the perfect chance to do it plus it saves on refurbishment time. If you consider the old parts to still be serviceable then there will always be someone willing to buy them from you.
Springs, shocks, turrets, bushes, fixings, TRE's etc are all items that I would replace (along with those bulkhead support brackets and probably F&R wing stays).
Radius-arms, A-frame and steering tubes I would clean up (I used a rotary wire-brush, works wonders) and after prepping finish off with a nice coating of chassis black.

The photo below for instance shows what one of my A-frame arms looks like after only a short amount of time with the rotary wire-wheel (I took the photo mainly to show how I remove old bushes prior to the Super-Pro ones going in, took only 5-minutes). With the old bush out I then finished cleaning it up and got stuck in with the painting.

View attachment 229002

To protect the bottom of the bulkhead I thoroughly recommend fitting Gwyn Lewis Defender Front Outrigger Mud Shields - GL1010, I fitted a set back in 2013 and when I took the bulkhead off last year the area behind them (including the brackets) was completely untouched by road dirt / salt.
I was so impressed that this time I also fitted their Defender Rear X-Member Mud Shields and Defender Front Of Rear Wheel Mud Shield.
Well made, good price, easy to fit and very worthwhile.

v8250 · Jan 25, 2021

@saxmanuk , depending on how far you want to go I did the following when I re-furb'd mine

suspension components - all new incl spings, dampers, SuperPro bushes all round, front Gwyn Lewis cones and HD mounting hardware [all reassembled with lots of ceramic spray grease].
all other suspension hardware buzzed back, cleaned, primed and resprayed with Raptor black 1k cans - it's very good, even did the same with the fuel tank as was near rust free internally.
I had a dilemma with the engine bay black metal components, brake & clutch cylinder boxes, air filter box and cradle, radiator frame and all the associated brackets - total this lot up and there's £2000 in parts so I buzzed back and cleaned then had them media blasted and HD powder coated, all for £150. They now look fantastic...here's some inspiration

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