Uplift · Jan 19, 2020

Hi, I've just signed up to the forum as about to embark on a small restoration of a one owner 2002 3l L322 SE, my first Land Rover.

It needs a few service items and some minor body repairs, but the main challenge is the sills and rear arches. Rotten, so I'm looking for a good local welder.

My first question though is where is a good place for quality parts that's not a main dealer? Need glow plugs, gearbox filter and an engine thermostat.

Cheers for any pointers.

Saint.V8 · Jan 19, 2020

Welcome...with the body repairs, you will have to fabricate your own repair panels, as the whole side of the L322 is one piece!

I use island 4x4 based in Kent for my parts - customer service is a bit hit and miss, but I have never had a problem with there delivery or parts quality.

Ther eis also, Paddock Spares, mm-4x4 and if you liek the feeling of being financially butt-fiddled....Rimmer Bros.

kevstar · Jan 19, 2020

Welcome to lz matey, peeps tend to stay away from britpart parts but cheap & cheerful if funds are tight.

stemac33 · Jan 19, 2020

Welcome to the asylum nursey will be along soon with your tablets

tomcat59alan · Jan 19, 2020

stemac33 said:
Welcome to the asylum nursey will be along soon with your tablets

She may be late,she's tucking me up in bed and you know how things develop. Welcome and get yo the back of the queue.

ukadamwest · Jan 19, 2020

I use island 4x4, Brit Car, John Craddock, Paddock Spares, Maltings 4x4 depends who has the best price on my order list.

rather than order in dribs and drabs and get hooked up with shipping, I tend to plan what needs doing and order over £50 as that tends to get free shipping.

welding sills and arches, well that depends of the welder/bodyshop you use. it can be hit or miss so pop a long and see the kind of work they do. my paint guy is trade, charges £150 a panel but he's trade so it comes back covered in primer dust as dealers will valet a car before it goes on the forecourt and being trade he turns a lot of cars around so it can take a while to get to it. replacement panel parts for the L322 are non existent.

welcome to Range Rover ownership.

kevstar · Jan 19, 2020

tomcat59alan said:
She may be late,she's tucking me up in bed and you know how things develop. Welcome and get yo the back of the queue.

She is a he on weekends called Bob iirc enjoy

Uplift · Jan 19, 2020

Thanks all. Yes I'll be researching good welders, I think the issue will be finding a good one wanting to do it. Won't be a small amount of work and having to make everything will take time. Love the car though, well looked after mechanical,shame to be let down by rot.

norseman · Jan 19, 2020

Uplift said:
Love the car though, well looked after mechanical,shame to be let down by rot .

You'd think JLR would have eradicated that by now wouldn't you ?
No chance, old habits die hard

Datatek · Jan 20, 2020

Welcome. The best thing you can do with an L322 is burn it before it bankrupts you.

gold rover · Jan 20, 2020

norseman said:
You'd think JLR would have eradicated that by now wouldn't you ?
No chance, old habits die hard

.JLR have to answer in part, but I think some fault lies with owners. I've had the Golden Girl creeping up on 10yrs. I had the rear wheel arches dealt with at very first sign of bubbling , when she was about 10yr old. That did the job until this year. The wheel arches were fine but she failed, her MoT ( first fail in over a decade) on a small 5p sized hole near rear suspension mounting. So I had wheel arches done again at same time, as there were a few bubbles. At 18yr old I don't think that's too bad
Which after the long story, means not all are completely rotten. They just need paid attention to.

Salisbury Nick · Jan 20, 2020

I love the L322 - they can be fabulous cars. But when things go wrong they are also fabulously expensive!

kermit_rr · Jan 20, 2020

If you built a car using decent quality steel and prepared/painted it properly, rust wouldn't be such an issue, provided any paint damage is repaired

Datatek · Jan 20, 2020

kermit_rr said:
If you built a car using decent quality steel and prepared/painted it properly, rust wouldn't be such an issue, provided any paint damage is repaired

Like the P38, the only Land Rover product that is reasonably rust free.
Building rust in is part of "Planned Obsolescence"

kermit_rr · Jan 20, 2020

Datatek said:
Like the P38, the only Land Rover product that is reasonably rust free.
Building rust in is part of "Planned Obsolescence"

Do you not simply think it's the bean counters choosing cheap Chinese steel which has next to no QA?

Salisbury Nick · Jan 20, 2020

@Uplift - look on the bright side. If you had bought a P38 people would laugh at you and say you have bought a heap of trouble. As it is you have bought an L322 - and people will laugh at you and say you have bought a heap of trouble. So don't be despondent or put off by this merriment, welcome to the forum and what every one on this forum has in common is that they all own a Range Rover, or two, and can all be laughed at for buying a heap of trouble. We are united! And with the knowledge and expertise on here, (not mine), you may get away with reducing the cost - a bit.

Datatek · Jan 20, 2020

kermit_rr said:
Do you not simply think it's the bean counters choosing cheap Chinese steel which has next to no QA?

No, it's planned. Chinese steel seems to last pretty well in Asian products. I think most of the steel in the Range Rover came from the UK.

Datatek · Jan 20, 2020

Salisbury Nick said:
@Uplift - look on the bright side. If you had bought a P38 people would laugh at you and say you have bought a heap of trouble. As it is you have bought an L322 - and people will laugh at you and say you have bought a heap of trouble. So don't be despondent or put off by this merriment, welcome to the forum and what every one on this forum has in common is that they all own a Range Rover, or two, and can all be laughed at for buying a heap of trouble. We are united! And with the knowledge and expertise on here, (not mine), you may get away with reducing the cost - a bit.

The difference between a P38 heap of trouble and an L322 heap of trouble is a factor of 10 in terms of complexity and cost

gold rover · Jan 20, 2020

kermit_rr said:
Do you not simply think it's the bean counters choosing cheap Chinese steel which has next to no QA?

Ummm might be being a bit silly here but the issue doesn't seem to be steel . I had it explained that it's not rust, it's corrosion, and some reaction between the metal and aluminium.
I'm sure someone cleverer, who knows L322s, like @Saint.V8, can explain better

gold rover · Jan 20, 2020

Salisbury Nick said:
@Uplift - look on the bright side. If you had bought a P38 people would laugh at you and say you have bought a heap of trouble. As it is you have bought an L322 - and people will laugh at you and say you have bought a heap of trouble. So don't be despondent or put off by this merriment, welcome to the forum and what every one on this forum has in common is that they all own a Range Rover, or two, and can all be laughed at for buying a heap of trouble. We are united! And with the knowledge and expertise on here, (not mine), you may get away with reducing the cost - a bit.

Except @gstuart , who is our resident, early RRS, expert, due to it being a D3 in disguise

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