Jonnyb1990

Well-Known Member

• Sep 23, 2016

• #1

[GALLERY=]

[/GALLERY]

Its all mine !

Solid underneath, only some issues,

Primary one is upper tailgate doesnt shut propperly, does require a bit of force on the courners for it to latch,

the other is the cattle shed inside !

 

davidsmith1307

Well-Known Member

• Sep 23, 2016

• #2

Nice. Such a great looking car the classic.

 

Saint.V8

Dyed-in-the-wool 100% RR Junkie

Full Member

• Sep 23, 2016

• #3

Odd to see the vertical grill on the post 84 era vehicle, and scuttle could do with a coat of looking at, but other than that, I am glad to see another Classic being given love - they are becoming rarer now!

 

norseman

Well-Known Member

• Sep 23, 2016

• #4

Pressing on the bottom corners is the best way to latch the tailgate as the catches are at the ends, not in the middle. Slamming it shut by the handle is not only ineffectual but you can bend the frame as well.
Interesting that it's fitted with the pre-'86 rad grill & no spoiler.

 

Jonnyb1990

Well-Known Member

• Sep 23, 2016

• #5

Yeah i did notice, also its ignition needs adjusting as its been on gas before the valves and manifolds replaced

 

P

pete1987RRC

Well-Known Member

• Sep 23, 2016

• #6

Nice looking classic, did you enrol on a welding course yet.

 

Gmacz

Well-Known Member

• Sep 23, 2016

• #7

Nice classic, hope you have lots of fun with it.
On my rrc, i gently close rear hatch and push on both corners, it works well and beats trying to slam it shut.

 

Jonnyb1990

Well-Known Member

• Sep 24, 2016

• #8

any idea on teh part numbers for the upper tailgate latches or how to allign the tailgate propperly ?

 

P

pete1987RRC

Well-Known Member

• Sep 24, 2016

• #9

There is a bit of play in the hinge mounts if I remember correctly.
The hinges bolt through and have a single nut on the inside of the car.
Last one I changed I closed both tail gates and then used a wide blade chisel between the 2 tailgates to lever top one to position, worked a treat but careful not to scratch anything.

 

Jonnyb1990

Well-Known Member

• Sep 24, 2016

• #10

lower tailgate needs a respray anyway so not bothered about paint damage

 

norseman

Well-Known Member

• Sep 24, 2016

• #11

Gmacz said:

Nice classic, hope you have lots of fun with it.
On my rrc, i gently close rear hatch and push on both corners, it works well and beats trying to slam it shut.

Click to expand...

That's the way to do it

 

S

ShaunPDisco

Active Member

• Sep 25, 2016

• #12

Hi Jonny
Welcome to the classic club. I got one a couple of months ago but still haven't yet finished the welding!!! Are you still at the Land Rover dealers? Need to get a timing chain kit for my P38 2.5!

 

Jonnyb1990

Well-Known Member

• Sep 25, 2016

• #13

ShaunPDisco said:

Hi Jonny
Welcome to the classic club. I got one a couple of months ago but still haven't yet finished the welding!!! Are you still at the Land Rover dealers? Need to get a timing chain kit for my P38 2.5!

Click to expand...

yeah still there, i'll get a quote tomorrow for ya !

 

Jonnyb1990

Well-Known Member

• May 11, 2017

• #14

Thread revival alert

£107.78+VAT for both upper and lower

Also have discovered that the headlights are not the type that you can fit Defender bowls in, got a much earlier type, ideas as the reflector material is peeling !+

 

Grrrrrr

Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd

Full Member

• May 11, 2017

• #15

ShaunPDisco said:

Hi Jonny
Welcome to the classic club. I got one a couple of months ago but still haven't yet finished the welding!!! Are you still at the Land Rover dealers? Need to get a timing chain kit for my P38 2.5!

Click to expand...

Does that include all the sprockets and guides?

 

Jonnyb1990

Well-Known Member

• May 11, 2017

• #16

Sadly there is no kit, chains only, main tensioner is nearly £100, guides are rougly £65 each, working off my phone, can look tomorrow

 

Jonnyb1990

Well-Known Member

• May 11, 2017

• #17

Also a quick list of changes to heap o scrap,

New Plugs, (britpart ones @ £1 each)
HT leads changed (red silicon ones)
New dizzy and Cap,
2nd hand plenum chamber,
New Header tank,
New header tank sensor,
New steels (white, off a 2015 defender)
5 new Gen AT2,
2 upper tailgate latches
New ignition barrel
New old stock steering coloum surround
new coolant hoses,
uprated battery
All filters changed, even the not so common ones ie flametrap
new Belts all round
new maf
New pipe for maf to plenum

much monies and trade discount used !

Oh and the power brakes still dont work .... except when i dont want them to haha

 

dkl1971

Active Member

• May 11, 2017

• #18

Do you now have a new key for the ignition then which, presumably, is different to the door locks. Any way around this?

 

Jonnyb1990

Well-Known Member

• May 12, 2017

• #19

The door barrels are worn and the new key opens them (even though it shouldnt),

but no, there is way other then disassembling the door and looking at the barrel (different years have other ways to adapt the barrel but not always possible)and it may require a kit for ebay for the plates/mechanism

 

Grrrrrr

Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd

Full Member

• May 12, 2017

• #20

Jonnyb1990 said:

Sadly there is no kit, chains only, main tensioner is nearly £100, guides are rougly £65 each, working off my phone, can look tomorrow

Click to expand...

Thought that sounded a good deal! Oh well.