dogsbody

dogsbody

Very senior member
Hello to you all. This is my first post on this or anything like it, I'm not a great computer user. At last I've fulfilled my dream and own a P38. Now I want to get it in a condition to keep it for a good few years. I got a local independant to do a major 96,000 service and have a good nose around. From his report and what I've read on here the next thing is airbags. If I'm honest I can't afford to pay him to do the work so I thought I'd have a go. I've found bags and clips on line but what else should I have to hand before I start. (I know that a jack might come in handy!) I've got Rave. Is it worth buying any of the electronic aids that I see advertised for this or is it worth having any of them for the long haul? Anything else?
 
Welcome. Make sure you have EKA code for your car.(emergency key access) Necessary if locked out `cause of battery probs. Check-out www.rswsolutions for an overview of EAS system. Get a suitable lead and software, as described soon. With luck you may not need it , but sod`s law reign`s supreme in Rangie-World. I think Datatek has done a piece on changing air springs. Looked a bit frightening to me at first `cause of unfamiliarity.... not merely lumps of metal to bash! A good pair of jacks (buy one borrow one) and good strong axle stands make air spring changing easier, and safer! Have fun!
 
Welcome to the whacky world of P38's. Great motors when they work can be a real pain in the butt when they don't. You don't require any electric gizzmos to change the air bags but will probably help long term. Be prepared for 1 or 2 of the retaining clips to be a bit on the stiff side and I found a smear of vasaline is a big help when refitting the air lines to the new bags.

Personally I carry an EAS buddy box in the glove box and have carried out routine maintenance on the system. i.e new bags, new piston seal on the compressor and shortly carrying out a valve block overhaul. So far this has kept me free from any hard faults (touch wood) and with the major components in good shape a fault should be easily cleared with the buddy box.

At 90k you're eas will be getting a bit tired so keep an eye open for any issues and good luck.
 
dogsbody said:
Hello to you all. This is my first post on this or anything like it, I'm not a great computer user. At last I've fulfilled my dream and own a P38. Now I want to get it in a condition to keep it for a good few years. I got a local independant to do a major 96,000 service and have a good nose around. From his report and what I've read on here the next thing is airbags. If I'm honest I can't afford to pay him to do the work so I thought I'd have a go. I've found bags and clips on line but what else should I have to hand before I start. (I know that a jack might come in handy!) I've got Rave. Is it worth buying any of the electronic aids that I see advertised for this or is it worth having any of them for the long haul? Anything else?
Click to expand...


I can send you an "Idiots Guide" with photo's to help with changing the airbags. It's an easy job. PM me with an email address if you want a copy of the guide.
:welcome2:
 
Thank you all. I've got the EKA code, I realised early on that this could be important and not just while working on the car so I've got it, and a spare key, in a greaseproof wrapper cable tied under the car. Two jacks, yes I can see why that might make life easier and safer.
Fortgrange - sorry but what's an EAS BUDDY? No, forget this, I've just found it fleabay. $200 (whatever that is in real money) I think I'll go the bit of wire and laptop route. Thanks anyway.
A special thank you to Datatek. Now then, PM? Ahah, private message. Here I go.
 
Last edited:
Just done my rear with Datatek's idiot guide.

The couple of problems I had is that the air bag would not come out of the top housing no matter how hard I tugged and pulled and I couldn't get a good grip on the air hose, so I did the air hose once the bag was out (As per the Rave). As for getting the air bag out I managed to slide my crowbar in :eek: and the lip just rested on top of the air bag, bit of lifting on the other end and it popped out. BUT be carefull as there where other pipes, wires around the area.

Rob
 
dogsbody said:
Thank you all. I've got the EKA code, I realised early on that this could be important and not just while working on the car so I've got it, and a spare key, in a greaseproof wrapper cable tied under the car. Two jacks, yes I can see why that might make life easier and safer.
Fortgrange - sorry but what's an EAS BUDDY? No, forget this, I've just found it fleabay. $200 (whatever that is in real money) I think I'll go the bit of wire and laptop route. Thanks anyway.
A special thank you to Datatek. Now then, PM? Ahah, private message. Here I go.
Click to expand...

Got mine for about £60 from memory. The lead and lap top are far more comprehensive but we travel to Northern Norway most winters and when its -15 and pitch black the Buddy Box is quick and easy. Sits in the glove box with my syncmate. Wouldn't leave home without them!!
 
As RJ says i had trouble getting thr rear bags out, firmly stuck at the top, as he says only way is to get some leverage on the very top of the bag from underneath.
Also had problem with one of the collets not letting the hose thru far enough to seal, so on the others i gently prised the collett out of the new bag to check the fit over the airline, they can be opened out (gently) with the shaft of a screwdriver, not to much though or it wont go back in. Apart from that not a difficult job but a bit fiddly, make sure you have a pair of needle nose pliers.
 
MASSIVE thanks to Datatek. As I've said before I'm a total newcomer to the land of P38's but this afternoon I have replaced my rear air bags. Why the thanks to Datatek? Well, I've read RAVE, I've read through this forum and I 'sort of' knew the official way to do this. Then along comes Datatek with an idiot's guide with pictures, hints and a method of doing it that meant that if I made a mistake it would be obvious where it was.

One of his tips, almost a throw away comment in fact, was an absolute gem. He mentioned that he used forceps to grip the air pipe. Well I've got a pair, think locking, needle nose pliers, and I used them to re-insert the R clips and then the pipes. Magic, and everything went in first time!

The only thing that I'd add to this is that I had a cheap squirty bottle of soapy water. The sort of thing that B&Q sells for 99p to water house plants. This meant that I could wash all the mud away from around the airline without soaking the area that I was then going to lie on.

THank you Datatek.
 
dogsbody said:
MASSIVE thanks to Datatek. As I've said before I'm a total newcomer to the land of P38's but this afternoon I have replaced my rear air bags. Why the thanks to Datatek? Well, I've read RAVE, I've read through this forum and I 'sort of' knew the official way to do this. Then along comes Datatek with an idiot's guide with pictures, hints and a method of doing it that meant that if I made a mistake it would be obvious where it was.

One of his tips, almost a throw away comment in fact, was an absolute gem. He mentioned that he used forceps to grip the air pipe. Well I've got a pair, think locking, needle nose pliers, and I used them to re-insert the R clips and then the pipes. Magic, and everything went in first time!

The only thing that I'd add to this is that I had a cheap squirty bottle of soapy water. The sort of thing that B&Q sells for 99p to water house plants. This meant that I could wash all the mud away from around the airline without soaking the area that I was then going to lie on.

THank you Datatek.
Click to expand...

glad you got stuck in and changed the air bags,it is great when you get a talk through like data's isn't it.;)
 
Hi "Dogsbody" - Welcome to the LandyZone! I recently had to get my suspension air bags done for the MOT. The garage I went to were going to charge a fortune (and I never even considered using a LR Dealer), so I looked into whats' involved. I was going to attempt it with a mate who is pretty good with LRs, but in the end I discovered it needed some ECU work to clear faults caused by depressurising the system. I went for a compromise with the garage: I got the parts off Ebay for much less than they would have charged and the garage were happy to do the work. All in it cost me around £400 in the end - parts and labour.

100 miles later my head gasket went, but that's another story! If I didn't love my RR I'd be crying - a lot!!!!
 
I don't think I've ever felt so confident owning a car. It's probably the biggest I've ever owned but having read this forum I'm feeling that this just means easy access. Then with some-one like Data, who of course doesn't know me from Adam and might not even like me if he met me, but is willing to guide me through this job. Then I find that it's not even that difficult. OK my jack wouldn't reach the chassis but even that is just an excuse for a trip to Machine Mart. (I'm just taking the recycling down to the dump dear).
 
Karl702123 said:
Hi "Dogsbody" - Welcome to the LandyZone! I recently had to get my suspension air bags done for the MOT. The garage I went to were going to charge a fortune (and I never even considered using a LR Dealer), so I looked into whats' involved. I was going to attempt it with a mate who is pretty good with LRs, but in the end I discovered it needed some ECU work to clear faults caused by depressurising the system. I went for a compromise with the garage: I got the parts off Ebay for much less than they would have charged and the garage were happy to do the work. All in it cost me around £400 in the end - parts and labour.

100 miles later my head gasket went, but that's another story! If I didn't love my RR I'd be crying - a lot!!!!
Click to expand...

Hm, thats about £150 for probably less than 1.5 hours work. I'd do it for that:D
 
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