landy110sw

New Member
Hi chaps, i have just purchased a 110 with a few issues, I could do with some advice on, here goes....
Firstly the chap i bought it off advised the valve stem oil seals require doing, smokes when coasting downhill and when you reapply throttle - have searched around and apparently can be done with the head on, just need a link with pics if possible of how this is done as seen a few posts describing the procedure.

Secondly it makes a noise when coasting, particularly in the high gears, 3/4/5, almost like its from the gearbox, not sure if its linked to the issues above, i doubt it, its almost like a grinding noise, any pointers would be appreciated. many thanks
 
Worn valve stem seals will allow the engine to burn engine oil on startup - black smoke. Much easier done with the head off.
 
Valve stem seals are easy enough to do with the head on using air pressure to hold up the valves, or a bit of rope shoved in through the spark-plug hole if it's one of those petrol things. Done the trick on V8s, 2.25s, 2.5s...it's all essentially the same.

I have a write-up (few pictures, though) on the process for a 2.5D/200TDi at:

http://richer-engineering.com/Defender/valve_seal_replacement.php

And yes, the valve stem seals can cause smoking on overrun - not usually so much in a Diesel as they breathe free to the air and don;t develop a lot of manifold vacuum, but notorious on 2.25s of the petrol persuasion.
 
Grumbling noise may well be UJs as mentioned above.

I have just done my valve stem oil seals with the head on. It took about hour and a half. I bought an overhead valve spring compressor and followed one of the many guides that I found after using the search function on here. Essentially Move the engine to TDC and then pistons 1 dn 4 should be fully up. You can now do both valves on pistons 1&4 as the valve will just sit on top ogf the pistons. Then (when 1&4 are done and finished, rotate engine crank shaft 180 degrees so pistons 2&3 will be up. Then do the valves for each of these.
Remember to re-do valve clearances when finshed.
Also Put paper or tissue into the various oil holes to stop you losing the collets down there when you remove them. Otherwise it becomes a head off job.
 
Thanks guys for the input,
Had a crawl under today as Marmaduke suggested, i couldn't find any play in the UJ's, off the rear prop or the front, I was just looking for excessive play in the joints, and all seemed well, very little movement.
The engine is a 200tdi by the way.
Mrchurchill, thanks for the link but i couldn't get it to work.
 
Play in the joints may be hard to detect by hand with the wheels on the ground and the handbrake applied, because there can still be some load in the transmission, especially if the car is trying to roll downhill. Jacked up, it's easier to detect. Give the drive flanges on the gearbox and the diffs a good wobble too as their bearings can wear and might benefit from replacement.
 
Play in the joints may be hard to detect by hand with the wheels on the ground and the handbrake applied, because there can still be some load in the transmission, especially if the car is trying to roll downhill. Jacked up, it's easier to detect. Give the drive flanges on the gearbox and the diffs a good wobble too as their bearings can wear and might benefit from replacement.

Putting the boxes in neutral, handbrake off (wheels chocked) has the same effect by freeing up an end of the props
 

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