B

Bibbs

Member
hi chaps, my series 2a didn’t have a fuel tank when I got it so have just received my new one from Paddock. Only thing is, it says to use your old sender unit to take a measurement to then solder your new one to the correct length.....

Anyone know what the length should be? It’s a 1970, 88”

Many thanks
 
Does the tank fit ok? When I got mine the filler tube was in the wrong position- had to cut a bit out of the tub to get it to fit!!
 
Yeah it’s ok, mine is under the drivers seat, it had two holes with covers for the pick up pipe and the whole lot went straight in. Just no idea really what length to solder the two parts of the float arm together at.
 
Can you stick a ruler in the tank, and work out the distance from the sender to the base when empty, and then use that distance to setup your new unit?

I mean, imagine you had a great big hole in the side of the tank - fit the sender to the empty tank, and make it so that the float (or whatever) has enough distance to get to the base.

Or am i completely missing your point?
 
No you’re not missing anything.

Ultimately, unless someone knows the length it should be, that’s what I’ll have to do, it’s just whether or not it’s supposed to reach the bottom etc.
 
Theyre not precision items. You have a resistive carbon strip with a wiper. If you buy a nice clean potentiometer from an electronics wholesaler, then it will probably have +/-10 % tolerance at any given point, if not more.

I swapped out our OEM disco sender for another OEM disco sender, and they perform differently, but, in time, your brain synchronises.

Basically, its not going to perform identically to any other unit, but, im sure, it will give you an indication of when youre about to run out of fuel.

If you dont take it to the base of the tank, then you will have an un-registered "reserve". Which, again, your brain will probably sync to... : )
 
Cool, so I’ll just prop the tank and best guess it. If I don’t do a suitable length, I can always withdraw it and resolved I suppose.

Cheers.
 
What I did was put a couple of tinycable ties round it that way you can adjust the length till the gauge reads right- come to think of it I never did fix it properly.....
 
Take the middel out of an electrical connector block, use a decent size one, take the two screw out and poke the metal bit out then use it as an ajustable clamp on the sender arm.
 
rob1miles said:
Take the middel out of an electrical connector block, use a decent size one, take the two screw out and poke the metal bit out then use it as an ajustable clamp on the sender arm.
Click to expand...
That’s a great idea. Also just occurred to me after your idea, I could use splice crimps.
 
So to put a lid on this thread, I used wire splice crimps. They worked a treat, solid.

Thanks for tips chaps. Attached is a pic of what I used, in case anyone else looks for a non-solder option.
A8DAFA51-2CDE-4EE7-869E-1B3961F83F14.jpeg
 
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