F

Farmboy86

Member
Right where do I start :rolleyes: I need to change my shocks on a disco 2 02 model now the the top shock bolt and the 2 turret nuts inside the engine bay are fine rachet them easy but the 2 turret nuts and the lower shock bolts are just 1 with the vehicle no amount of penetrative fluid or even heat i think would even work! I don't think they have ever been changed this is a low mileage disco aswel but it has had air bags to coil conversion so the back should should be fine I need to double check, anyway it looks like I'll have to go at it with a grinder when I come to doing the job 2 turret nuts easy enough cut them clean off and have new turrets and rings but what would be the best way to get the lower shock bolts out :eek: what would your tips and trick be in this situation? You see all these youtube videos with perfect bolts that just ratchet out :mad:
 
I have a set of spanners with the 6 sided ring end as opposed to bi-hex..

On mine I jammed a 6 point ring spanner on there and smacked the spanner with a lump hammer. ;)
 
6 sided socket with a couple of extension bars from above always works for me on the turret nuts.
6 sided socket on the damper bottom bolts too, but with 3/8 drive Ratchet to get the through springs (vehicle lifted to extend springs as far as possible)
 
Pawl said:
6 sided socket on the damper bottom bolts too, but with 3/8 drive Ratchet to get the through springs (vehicle lifted to extend springs as far as possible)
Click to expand...
^ that sounds familiar from when I did them 3 years back....but I seem to remember having to use a variety of extensions to cope with the different spring aspects. There wasn't much room to play with :)
 
I like @Henry_b used a single hex ring spanner to remove those lower damper bolts (then replaced them with stainless steel items). If you use a ratchet, again as said, 3/8 with any combo of extensions just use the vehicles bottle jack with some blocks of wood to hold the axle down as it makes life easy. Just got the other side to do now ;)
20220328_102443.jpg
 
Andy Warren said:
I like @Henry_b used a single hex ring spanner to remove those lower damper bolts (then replaced them with stainless steel items). If you use a ratchet, again as said, 3/8 with any combo of extensions just use the vehicles bottle jack with some blocks of wood to hold the axle down as it makes life easy. Just got the other side to do now ;)View attachment 262769
Click to expand...
that's looking good sir! Have you done the other side now? Did you feel a difference in driving after it? I didn't get on with the job the discos in the garage for its mot been in since Friday had brake lines to put on it but after having a good look didn't feel confident enough to do it and the bleed nipple have corroded to just points lol hope it passes and when I get it back going to have a go again lol
 
Farmboy86 said:
that's looking good sir! Have you done the other side now? Did you feel a difference in driving after it? I didn't get on with the job the discos in the garage for its mot been in since Friday had brake lines to put on it but after having a good look didn't feel confident enough to do it and the bleed nipple have corroded to just points lol hope it passes and when I get it back going to have a go again lol
Click to expand...
No haven't had a chance yet as I've been working on my FL1 fr. suspension & o/s driveshaft. Mine failed the mot on a broken n/s coil spring & I must confess I didn't notice any difference before or after the new spring was fitted :rolleyes:. Once the FL is done I'll do the other side & see if I notice any difference.
Yes I wouldn't tackle the brake lines until you can get the bleed nipples sorted, other than that it's a straight forward job, best of luck with the mot.
 
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