Colthebrummie said:

The valves need to come out to get a good look at the seats. The cylinder walls look blacker than I would expect, they need honing at least. Other than that, the valves and head dont look too bad.

Col

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Does honing mean I need to order a oversized pistons and rings to match? If I don't I can maybe do it myself by dropping the oil pan, remove connecting rod bolts and push pistons out? Put honing device on drill and make some cross scratches in wall?

Turboman said:

Clean the head up very carefully, and look for cracks.
The bores are suspect, a few marks, and they look very shiny, has someone been using synthetic oil?
And make sure you get a composite head gasket, those copper gaskets are rubbish,

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Thanks, I guess I will not use synthetic, I usually just buy whatever when changing the oil. The gearbox and diffs I think has some possible synthetic gear oil in it from a couple years back. I'll have to look and see what I put in from empty bottles in garage.

You dont normaly need new pistons and rings after honing, it depends how worn the cylinder walls are, measure them carefully. I have known people do the honing with the pistons left in place but obviously at the bottom of thier stroke. Your compression figures are'nt too bad for an old engine, except for number 1 which should improve when the valves and seats are sorted. The compression figures for my series 3 engine are worse than yours but it still does about 60 mph and its fuel consumption is normal

Col

Col

you dont want to be using modern gear oil in series 2 gearbox/diff, has a tendency to eat the soft metals in there
you're best off sticking to regular mineral oil with a series engine, though semi synth will work

Update, Cleaned up the head little by little, to me it looks like I have hardened seats pressed in already. Is that assessment correct? Brother-in-law says my seats are fine, just need to be recut on the bad one (exhaust #1). He thinks some debris, or object caused the malformation on the exhaust valve. I pressed out the valve guides today and called it good. They all had some play side to side motion. A couple where really really hard to get out and 1 of them was way too easy.
So those valve seats I got from Turner are too small unless I can put a valve seat inside a valve seat, ? haha Anyone know?

So far doing good in avoiding the machine shop. The picture is the Hardened valve seat I ordered on top of the current pressed in valve seat?
I am think strongly on doing what you guys suggested and honing the cylinder just a bit. Just use the fine stone I reckon.

Turboman said:

Clean the head up very carefully, and look for cracks.
The bores are suspect, a few marks, and they look very shiny, has someone been using synthetic oil?
And make sure you get a composite head gasket, those copper gaskets are rubbish,

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Why would synthetic oil cause shiny looking bores? Are you saying it can damage an engine?

Mik87 said:

Why would synthetic oil cause shiny looking bores? Are you saying it can damage an engine?

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That sort of engine, yes.

Youve done a good job of cleaning the head. It does look like the head has hardened seats after all. I dont know what to say about the new valve seats being the wrong size, its difficult to believe Turners sent you the wrong size, maybe email them with your pic and ask them the question.

Ckl

Ckl[/QUOTE]

Colthebrummie said:

Have a look at the amount of thread protruding from the tappet adjusters, if one or more is is showing a lot more thread than the rest the cam followers may be worn.

Col

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Your right, the roller assembly was flaking off chips. At least 1-2mm difference between new and old. The rollers are mostly in great shape. The new sliders don't say "front" on them, so I am guessing they go either way.

Colthebrummie said:

Youve done a good job of cleaning the head. It does look like the head has hardened seats after all. I dont know what to say about the new valve seats being the wrong size, its difficult to believe Turners sent you the wrong size, maybe email them with your pic and ask them the question.

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Ah its fine, I thought they may have had hardened seats already. I think it was from a stock of hardened steel and the machine shop just went with whatever size on a lathe. I'm not going to be touching the seats except to grind just a bit with the new valve guides now installed to get a true circular cut. Maybe I will come across another 2.25 in the future. Those valve guides I pushed out where not fully seated, the ones I pushed in I tried to get it seated all the way with the press. I wonder if not being seated would make my engine run hotter?

Its spray priming and painting the head tomorrow. The only original paint that was a sizable amount I could find was a spare oil filter canister. Had the duck egg green look to it. Interesting the inside is a blueish color. ha

update, Got held up today when looking at the three cooling water cast pieces. Lots of scale/corrosion so I tried to lap the gasket faces by hand with sand paper until they where mostly flat. I know now why the three long bolts where half the dia. they originally where. Ended up using a vibrating sander I use for doing drywall and some real abrasive paper to speed up the process. I think I have to much pitting and scale in the water jackets. I'm going to pull the radiator then the water pump cover to see how bad that is as well. Perhaps change it with a spare I have and also change out the double pulley on the crank to a single while I have easy access. The list of stuff to do seems to be getting longer and longer .

Thats always the case with old landies, one job turns into twenty.

Col

Couple pictures of where I'm at now. Not sure if that is normal wear. Also found every 1 inch long bolt on the water pump cross threaded. Waiting for parts again with correct unf type thread. Also waiting for deep socket large enough for the flywheel nut.

update:
Finally got the valve seat cutter I ordered 3 weeks ago. A little disappointed it only came with the exhaust cutter. The tool works very nice though, but the book said exhaust seats are 45 degrees, the tool driver its printed as 46 degrees. Its a Newway valve seat cutter kit - Land Rover KA1350. Well every exhaust seat was way off, the tool would take material from the half of the circle, eventually got it nice all around the seat. So then the next problem was lapping the valve with the paste, the tool I bought which I never checked was some kind of rivet chisel pneumatic- up and down motion tool with really garbage suction cups. I don't know what on earth that is for. Ended up turning the head sideways and putting paste on the valves and using a cordless drill to spin the valves. Only 1 valve of the 8 have a shiny spot on the middle of the seat. Not sure what to do know. I may lap again tomorrow and be allot more aggressive. Also I had to hone every intake valve guide to get the valve to slide through. It is what it is.

Got the new valves in, some duck egg engine paint on the springs I noticed. Wonder if that is from factory or some previous paint job over spray. Last picture is my set up for trying to get that goddam dog of the pully. I did have it in gear but the clutch must be going bad. I wanted something rock hard and not spongy to break the lock. My torque wrench max's out at 150lbs. One other thing I had to do was put a TDC notch onto the used pully that I put on. The old pully was a double and a chunk was taken out of it. I used a dial gauge on the piston but there was still about 2 degrees or more of a dead spot, so I just marked both places where the dial would stop and put a notch between the spots with a dremel tool. Tomorrow is put radiator and fan back on. Possibly the head if things go smooth. I really can't wait to see the new compression test results.

I think if its got duck egg blue overspray on the valve springs, its a recon military engine, I may be wrong about this. Military engineers think they are the best in the world but the ones who rebuild their truck engines dont seem to give a damn.

Cll

Colthebrummie said:

I think if its got duck egg blue overspray on the valve springs, its a recon military engine, I may be wrong about this. Military engineers think they are the best in the world but the ones who rebuild their truck engines dont seem to give a damn.

Cll

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Your right it belonged to the military according to previous owner.

Got it put back together, it fired, ran it for a couple minutes. I'm going to post compression test results tomorrow.

All done, test drove it today. Its like a new vehicle (except for the non existent brakes, thats normal), not like the old Landy. I set static timing (plugging vacuum hose), adjusted mixture and idle. Its so quiet and absolutely no vibration. So much more power.
Here is 2 sets of compression test, incase anyone is curious.
First test after top end rebuild with spark plugs like my first test in 1st post. (cold, 1 plug out at a time)
1- 100 (before rebuild 40)
2- 100
3- 100
4- 93

Second test the proper way- plugs out, accelerator down, engine warm.
1- 110
2- 110
3- 105
4- 100

Here is a link to the vacuum test
https://files.catbox.moe/fzf2dx.mp4

I thought it should be a little bit more steady, maybe because I am plugged into a port that is not central?

So to recap, I have been driving around with bad valve seats and still may be as I did'nt have the tool to check the intake seats. Probably for 7 years, in my mind the machine shop never bothered to use a pilot that fits snug into the valve guide to get a even cut but instead probably threaded a bolt into the block to adjust the angle the block rests on the bench then eyeballed it. I think i was getting back pressure through the carb like a backfire, pre ignition with #1 exhaust not closing and all the carbon build up which was belching into the oil/air filter cause that to drench the carb in a excessively oily film and not sure from there. Somehow leading to extra carbon build up along with the non stop zenith warp. I'm not sure what I just said there hehe, Hopefully its trouble free for a while, it used most of its allowance money for this year. cheers

edit: I never did hone the cyl. wanted to but waiting chickened out. Also she has non synthetic oil in her now. Thank you for everyone's suggestions.

last edit: (05-20-22)
My gas mileage has increased by a lot, I usually drive 80kph on the highway, I now creep up to 95kph and have a hard time slowing down to 80. Also the engine temp stays just a hair past the "C" (cold) mark when on the highway as before it would be in the middle between hot and cold, and I am in the tropics. The carburetor has also stopped acting up. The starting is better but not great yet. I think what happened was a clogged cooling port on the copper gasket, overheated the exhaust valve, which was cut wrong to begin with into a melted into a oval shape.