Rf receiver is plugged in both old and 2nd hand unit tested.. no luck... Sync procedure on this model is just to unlock with ignition on.. it's a Thor model. Unlock not being picked up...

I am aware that swapping a key fob guts will no longer work with becm. I did not personally refurb the key
Does the FOB LED flash when you put the key in the ignition? If it does not, it's possible the passive coil in the ignition switch has failed or it has been switched off in the BECM.
So the alternate sync method is key in lock, turn to lock and press the lock button, then turn to unlock and press the unlock button. If that doesn't work, do it the other way round. If that doesn't work either the door lock micro switches are not working properly, or the FOB's are faulty, or the RF receiver is faulty, or the RF memory needs to be cleared.
 
Rf receiver is plugged in both old and 2nd hand unit tested.. no luck... Sync procedure on this model is just to unlock with ignition on.. it's a Thor model. Unlock not being picked up...

I am aware that swapping a key fob guts will no longer work with becm. I did not personally refurb the key

Have you tried sync in the door look, lock/unlock with corresponding button.

J
 
Does the FOB LED flash when you put the key in the ignition? If it does not, it's possible the passive coil in the ignition switch has failed or it has been switched off in the BECM.
So the alternate sync method is key in lock, turn to lock and press the lock button, then turn to unlock and press the unlock button. If that doesn't work, do it the other way round. If that doesn't work either the door lock micro switches are not working properly, or the FOB's are faulty, or the RF receiver is faulty, or the RF memory needs to be cleared.

Door microswitches are ok as I use the eka everytime to start... Lights on fob do flash

So... Nanocom needed? The coil is a possibility I suppose...
 
Check the battery voltage while cranking the engine on the starter, if it drops much below 11v you'll get a gearbox fault
With the engine running, select first gear, does it now drive in first? Move to second gear, do you still have drive? If you do, then the one way clutch has failed

Never rev the engine in N or P after selecting a gear or you'll kill the box. Turn the engine off and leave for 2 mins before trying again
 
Door microswitches are ok as I use the eka everytime to start... Lights on fob do flash

So... Nanocom needed? The coil is a possibility I suppose...
If the LED in the FOB flashes when the key is inserted in the ignition, then the FOB is attempting to auto sync. That leaves a duff RF receiver, missing aerial, the RF memory needs clearing or maybe the FOB's don't match the BECM in the car, second hand FOB's cannot be synced. If you get hold of a Nanocom, turn off EKA and Immobiliser in the BECM and you will be able to operate the car with just a key, no EKA input needed.
 
Ah, so neither fob has worked?

J

Correct!

If the LED in the FOB flashes when the key is inserted in the ignition, then the FOB is attempting to auto sync. That leaves a duff RF receiver, missing aerial, the RF memory needs clearing or maybe the FOB's don't match the BECM in the car, second hand FOB's cannot be synced. If you get hold of a Nanocom, turn off EKA and Immobiliser in the BECM and you will be able to operate the car with just a key, no EKA input needed.

Yeah either getting it it work using nanocom or turning it off will be fine with me

Check the battery voltage while cranking the engine on the starter, if it drops much below 11v you'll get a gearbox fault
With the engine running, select first gear, does it now drive in first? Move to second gear, do you still have drive? If you do, then the one way clutch has failed

Never rev the engine in N or P after selecting a gear or you'll kill the box. Turn the engine off and leave for 2 mins before trying again

Doesn't move in first/2nd either only reverse
 
It should be 12V, but never checked mine. Definitely worth checking ground points & the BECM connections.

If you do get hold of Nanocom, this is the BECM section you need. Clear the memory & try the fob again.

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So maybe you don't even know if the FOB's are the correct ones for the car and not some second hand ones off Ebay which can never be made to work.

Yeah the original casing was in bits. Posted off to a guy who claimed to rebuild it, received it back not working at all (no light)...sent it back and received this one with the light which he claims is the same board
 
Yeah the original casing was in bits. Posted off to a guy who claimed to rebuild it, received it back not working at all (no light)...sent it back and received this one with the light which he claims is the same board
Sounds like the repair man has fitted a different board, I had that happen to me with the FOB on my project P38. If that is the case, it will never work. With the EKA and Immobiliser turned of , the car will work fine just using the key blade, I ran like that for quite a while. Indeed I have the EKA and Immobiliser turned off on both my P38's. comes in very handy if the FOB signals are blanked by a radio transmitter source.
 
Go to nearest LR dealer with V5C & ID, and get the Lockset Code from them. Then contact Les at CRNW. He can probably also check if your FOB is sending the correct ID.
 
Go to nearest LR dealer with V5C & ID, and get the Lockset Code from them. Then contact Les at CRNW. He can probably also check if your FOB is sending the correct ID.

Lockset code different from EKA?

Word of warning btw, I called up for the eka code for this land rover a while ago. Somewhere near Glasgow... Just gave me it over the phone there and then with reg only. V5 wasn't even in my name yet at this point.
 

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