Datatek · Mar 29, 2023

jordanpc2 said:
Rf receiver is plugged in both old and 2nd hand unit tested.. no luck... Sync procedure on this model is just to unlock with ignition on.. it's a Thor model. Unlock not being picked up...

I am aware that swapping a key fob guts will no longer work with becm. I did not personally refurb the key

Does the FOB LED flash when you put the key in the ignition? If it does not, it's possible the passive coil in the ignition switch has failed or it has been switched off in the BECM.
So the alternate sync method is key in lock, turn to lock and press the lock button, then turn to unlock and press the unlock button. If that doesn't work, do it the other way round. If that doesn't work either the door lock micro switches are not working properly, or the FOB's are faulty, or the RF receiver is faulty, or the RF memory needs to be cleared.

Datatek · Mar 29, 2023

jordanpc2 said:
Don't know this one..... How do do?

With Nanocom.

marjon · Mar 29, 2023

jordanpc2 said:
Rf receiver is plugged in both old and 2nd hand unit tested.. no luck... Sync procedure on this model is just to unlock with ignition on.. it's a Thor model. Unlock not being picked up...

I am aware that swapping a key fob guts will no longer work with becm. I did not personally refurb the key

Have you tried sync in the door look, lock/unlock with corresponding button.

J

jordanpc2 · Mar 29, 2023

Datatek said:
Does the FOB LED flash when you put the key in the ignition? If it does not, it's possible the passive coil in the ignition switch has failed or it has been switched off in the BECM.
So the alternate sync method is key in lock, turn to lock and press the lock button, then turn to unlock and press the unlock button. If that doesn't work, do it the other way round. If that doesn't work either the door lock micro switches are not working properly, or the FOB's are faulty, or the RF receiver is faulty, or the RF memory needs to be cleared.

Door microswitches are ok as I use the eka everytime to start... Lights on fob do flash

So... Nanocom needed? The coil is a possibility I suppose...

jordanpc2 · Mar 29, 2023

marjon said:
Have you tried sync in the door look, lock/unlock with corresponding button.

J

Yeah many times no avail... With eka.. without etc etc

marjon · Mar 29, 2023

jordanpc2 said:
Door microswitches are ok as I use the eka everytime to start... Lights on fob do flash

So... Nanocom needed? The coil is a possibility I suppose...

Ah, so neither fob has worked?

J

kermit_rr · Mar 29, 2023

Check the battery voltage while cranking the engine on the starter, if it drops much below 11v you'll get a gearbox fault
With the engine running, select first gear, does it now drive in first? Move to second gear, do you still have drive? If you do, then the one way clutch has failed

Never rev the engine in N or P after selecting a gear or you'll kill the box. Turn the engine off and leave for 2 mins before trying again

Datatek · Mar 29, 2023

jordanpc2 said:
Door microswitches are ok as I use the eka everytime to start... Lights on fob do flash

So... Nanocom needed? The coil is a possibility I suppose...

If the LED in the FOB flashes when the key is inserted in the ignition, then the FOB is attempting to auto sync. That leaves a duff RF receiver, missing aerial, the RF memory needs clearing or maybe the FOB's don't match the BECM in the car, second hand FOB's cannot be synced. If you get hold of a Nanocom, turn off EKA and Immobiliser in the BECM and you will be able to operate the car with just a key, no EKA input needed.

marjon · Mar 29, 2023

kermit_rr said:
With the engine running, select first gear, does it now drive in first? Move to second gear, do you still have drive? If you do, then the one way clutch has failed

That’s the one/words I was looking for.

J

jordanpc2 · Mar 29, 2023

marjon said:
Ah, so neither fob has worked?

J

Correct!

Datatek said:
If the LED in the FOB flashes when the key is inserted in the ignition, then the FOB is attempting to auto sync. That leaves a duff RF receiver, missing aerial, the RF memory needs clearing or maybe the FOB's don't match the BECM in the car, second hand FOB's cannot be synced. If you get hold of a Nanocom, turn off EKA and Immobiliser in the BECM and you will be able to operate the car with just a key, no EKA input needed.

Yeah either getting it it work using nanocom or turning it off will be fine with me

kermit_rr said:
Check the battery voltage while cranking the engine on the starter, if it drops much below 11v you'll get a gearbox fault
With the engine running, select first gear, does it now drive in first? Move to second gear, do you still have drive? If you do, then the one way clutch has failed

Never rev the engine in N or P after selecting a gear or you'll kill the box. Turn the engine off and leave for 2 mins before trying again

Doesn't move in first/2nd either only reverse

jordanpc2 · Mar 29, 2023

Rf receiver seems to only be getting a voltage of 10v when battery is currently 12.4...

pwood999 · Mar 30, 2023

It should be 12V, but never checked mine. Definitely worth checking ground points & the BECM connections.

If you do get hold of Nanocom, this is the BECM section you need. Clear the memory & try the fob again.

Datatek · Mar 30, 2023

jordanpc2 said:
Correct!

Yeah either getting it it work using nanocom or turning it off will be fine with me

Doesn't move in first/2nd either only reverse

So maybe you don't even know if the FOB's are the correct ones for the car and not some second hand ones off Ebay which can never be made to work.

jordanpc2 · Mar 30, 2023

Datatek said:
So maybe you don't even know if the FOB's are the correct ones for the car and not some second hand ones off Ebay which can never be made to work.

Yeah the original casing was in bits. Posted off to a guy who claimed to rebuild it, received it back not working at all (no light)...sent it back and received this one with the light which he claims is the same board

marjon · Mar 30, 2023

What we are asking is.
Did either fob ever work on the car.

J

Datatek · Mar 30, 2023

jordanpc2 said:
Yeah the original casing was in bits. Posted off to a guy who claimed to rebuild it, received it back not working at all (no light)...sent it back and received this one with the light which he claims is the same board

Sounds like the repair man has fitted a different board, I had that happen to me with the FOB on my project P38. If that is the case, it will never work. With the EKA and Immobiliser turned of , the car will work fine just using the key blade, I ran like that for quite a while. Indeed I have the EKA and Immobiliser turned off on both my P38's. comes in very handy if the FOB signals are blanked by a radio transmitter source.

jordanpc2 · Mar 30, 2023

marjon said:
What we are asking is.
Did either fob ever work on the car.

J

The original did before it was parked up a LONGG time ago... I just don't actually know if this is the original or as said, he's probably swapped for another body

pwood999 · Mar 31, 2023

Go to nearest LR dealer with V5C & ID, and get the Lockset Code from them. Then contact Les at CRNW. He can probably also check if your FOB is sending the correct ID.

jordanpc2 · Mar 31, 2023

pwood999 said:
Go to nearest LR dealer with V5C & ID, and get the Lockset Code from them. Then contact Les at CRNW. He can probably also check if your FOB is sending the correct ID.

Lockset code different from EKA?

Word of warning btw, I called up for the eka code for this land rover a while ago. Somewhere near Glasgow... Just gave me it over the phone there and then with reg only. V5 wasn't even in my name yet at this point.

pwood999 · Mar 31, 2023

Call Les first. He will explain exactly what’s needed & make a working key for you.

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Member

Member

Well-Known Member

Very

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Member

Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Member

Well-Known Member

Member

Well-Known Member

Similar threads