Apologies for yet another Nanocom posting but as I am now 'rapidly' wading my way through the few remaining 'problems', (on my 1996 P38 4.6HSE - GEMS), I am at a stage where I need to decide whether I should invest in a Nanocom now or later, (I may have a few 'spare' pennies currently and my wife is in a relatively good mood currently)!

I have taken a good look at the Nanocom site but the actual list of functions does not appear to be overly comprehensive and I do know that the Nanocom, (for the early P38's), has limited functionality - as compared to the Nanocoms for the later P38's.

Although I shouldn't say this, (or even think it), in public - my engine starts, first time, every time and sounds as sweet as a V8 should sound and likewise for the transmission but, (as I continue to repair the, somewhat lessening, list of 'things to do'), I am aware of a couple of issues that will require the Nanocom namely: -

1/. The HIVAC fault symbol - as I believe it is somewhat difficult to troubleshoot without a bit of 'guidance' from the Nanocom.

2/. My speedometer appears to be reading low, (she came with what I believe to be 'mud plugger' tyres on her at the moment - 255 65R16), and I suspect that these may not be standard and I am wondering whether the Nanocom would allow the re-programming of the speedo for different tyre sizes?

In addition to the above I have also considered that it would be prudent to make a copy of all the engine parameters, (whilst she appears to be running well), so that I have something to compare against should she lose her 'purr' at some point in the future - which I fully expect - once I get her back to an 'acceptable' condition, (Murphy's Law)!!

And, finally, should I ever 'upgrade', (to a later P38), in the future am I able to 'upgrade' my Nanocom, (to that of a later version of P38), with a nominal additional cost or would my 'initial investment' be lost completely?

Apologies for directing these questions to the forum but I would rather 'learn' from those who have been in the same position as myself rather than just relying on the sales hype.

I'm not sure you can do anything with the speedo, almost certain you cant.
I had Nano for the 4.6 GEMS engine. I also have the Discover TD5 unit. I did consider
adding the GEMS to the TD5 but for the extra cost bought a separate unit, which since the P38
was sold has also been sold.

biggeeeee said:

I'm not sure you can do anything with the speedo, almost certain you cant.
I had Nano for the 4.6 GEMS engine. I also have the Discover TD5 unit. I did consider
adding the GEMS to the TD5 but for the extra cost bought a separate unit, which since the P38
was sold has also been sold.

Click to expand...

The speedo ratio can be changed with Nanocom.

wammers said:

The speedo ratio can be changed with Nanocom.

Click to expand...

Cool - every day is a school day

Now how do I 'casually' broach the subject of another 'modest' investment . . . .

Use the "look at the money I can save" argument

My argument is currently going in the direction of "well I need it to fix the HVAC issue" Rather peevishly my P38 likes to blow cold air at the passenger and warm air at the driver. Great for when I'm overheating and shes moaning shes freezing!

I have use of a Nanocom, and think the list of functionality is pretty comprehensive. It's certainly got everything you need for day to day mechanicing, and running of the car. I thought the Nanocom did everything it was possible to do with all the P38's, early or not except re-program and update the milage on the BECM.

As Wammers says, the speedo can be changed. The input control you're looking for is the "Wheel Coefficiant" or something. Mine is on standard 16 inch rims, and the "Wheel Coefficient" is currently set to 1.

As well as taking snapshots of the engine settings, you can take traces of all the engine perameters as you drive along too. So you can see how the engine is performing accross all it's inputs, sensrs, and outputs. I added the GEMS capability to a Diesel Nanocom for £50 I think. Adding THOR capability (if you change your car) is possible, and probably about the same price. I prefer the Nanocom to the other product BlackBox make because they are VIN locked to the vehicle, to use it on another car you have to re-register, with a Nanocom once you have the GEMS module, it'll work on any GEMS P38.

Nanocom is a pretty spectacular wee thing I must admit but didn't know it could do the speedo too. I have one but it scares me silly in case I inadvertently screw something up which was going fine. My intention is to get a new capability on Nano if I ever upgrade the P38

quavey said:

My argument is currently going in the direction of "well I need it to fix the HVAC issue" Rather peevishly my P38 likes to blow cold air at the passenger and warm air at the driver. Great for when I'm overheating and shes moaning shes freezing!

Click to expand...

Pretty weak argument. L/H blend motor is sick. Maybe just stripping it removing the electric motor then cleaning the carbon dust from the commutator would do the job.

Chaps, many thanks, indeed, for your very valuable feedback and my conclusion is that I will be investing ASAP.

I also appreciate Wammers reference to the 'known' issues with the HIVAC, (which I was already aware of), that can be addressed without the assistance of a Nanocom - in some/most cases.

I was 'winging' it with regards to the speedo calibration though - as I hadn't checked RAVE - just to check that it was, in fact, electronic and not simply cable driven - confession of the day over!

Strange how you can instinctively tell when road speed does not = indicated speed!

Yes, you added it for about 50 quid. Never did pay anything though.

wammers said:

Pretty weak argument. L/H blend motor is sick. Maybe just stripping it removing the electric motor then cleaning the carbon dust from the commutator would do the job.

Click to expand...

I'll have to have a go at that then!

I have had a quick look at Rave, it looks like glove box removal, HVAC panel removal and a few trim panels, is that the case to try and get at the flaps to see if they move or are stuck?

quavey said:

I'll have to have a go at that then!

I have had a quick look at Rave, it looks like glove box removal, HVAC panel removal and a few trim panels, is that the case to try and get at the flaps to see if they move or are stuck?

Click to expand...

For L/H blend motor you just need to remove the side panel. Maybe a bit of a fiddle but it's the easiest one to get at. Blend flaps don't stick.

wammers said:

For L/H blend motor you just need to remove the side panel. Maybe a bit of a fiddle but it's the easiest one to get at. Blend flaps don't stick.

Click to expand...

OK Cool thanks, will have a look at that. Can the LH blend motor be changed without anything else out apart from the side panel?

quavey said:

OK Cool thanks, will have a look at that. Can the LH blend motor be changed without anything else out apart from the side panel?

Click to expand...

Not unless you cut the cable and splice it. Changing it properly is a little more difficult.

wammers said:

Not unless you cut the cable and splice it. Changing it properly is a little more difficult.

Click to expand...

But I can get at it and give it a good clean though? I have read about people lubricating and freeing of flaps behind the dash, If i'm honest my last P38 was never a bother with the HVAC (praise the lord) so I've never had any of it to bits. I wish there was someone local that would have a look at for me and I can give some beer tokens to as I imagine its not the best job!

quavey said:

But I can get at it and give it a good clean though? I have read about people lubricating and freeing of flaps behind the dash, If i'm honest my last P38 was never a bother with the HVAC (praise the lord) so I've never had any of it to bits. I wish there was someone local that would have a look at for me and I can give some beer tokens to as I imagine its not the best job!

Click to expand...

Blend flaps don't stick they are small ones one either side. It's the distribution flaps that stick because the motor has to drive two of them and they go right across the heater unit.