Coming from the auto industry it's not uncommon to have redundant connectors on wiring looms for options/high level use, it's cheaper to maybe give them away rather than have say 4 looms with four part numbers, four different storage points, four negotiated prices etc. so just have one. It may also be a scheduling issue, ie bring in the higher spec loom that is designed for later engine etc but still functions with existing engine. Better that than the other way round!
 
ALARM FOB???? you have an alarm :confused: Only alarm on mine is the alarmed look I get when I see the state of the chassis.. :eek: :eek:

Sorry about the slow response, had a bit of family issue I had to jump on unexpectedly.

It was sold to me as with imobiliser but no alarm. The first time I opened it without zaping the "imobiliser" (I was only geting something out of the boot) the horn and alarm started blaring!

Susspect it was an optional extra at new as it appears to be the Disco1 system made to fit in a 110
 
All the 'high end' defenders have them, if you are really posh it will also work :rolleyes::rolleyes:

If by "work" you mean goes off when it feels like, and needing to arm and disarm it 3 times to get the imobiliser let me start then I've just become posh :D:D


Guess the fuse and the round connector will remain unknown.
 
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The 300tdi can have electrikery, in the form of the EDC engine, not sure if it was ever put in the defender, but was on most, if not all auto discos.
My 300 has an alarm, immobiliser was standard afaik.
 
Don't quote me on this but I think in 1998 it was compulsory for all new cars to be fitted with an immobiliser as standard !
 
If by "work" you mean goes off when it feels like, and needing to arm and disarm it 3 times to get the imobiliser let me start then I've just become posh :D:D

Nope, one press as you would expect, no false alarms and it actually goes off if you forget to disarm :eek: :cool:

You are probably suffering from dry joints in the immobiliser box (in the battery compartment), a fairly easy fix with a bit of grinding and soldering
 
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Coming from the auto industry it's not uncommon to have redundant connectors on wiring looms for options/high level use, it's cheaper to maybe give them away rather than have say 4 looms with four part numbers, four different storage points, four negotiated prices etc. so just have one. It may also be a scheduling issue, ie bring in the higher spec loom that is designed for later engine etc but still functions with existing engine. Better that than the other way round![/QUOTE

Your'e absolutely correct. Land Rover constantly plan to reduce complexity on their builds. For instance a low spec Defender will have a lead wired into it's nearside front wing harness to take a BBUS ( battery back up sounder ) even though it has no BBUS.
 
Sorry about the slow response, had a bit of family issue I had to jump on unexpectedly.

It was sold to me as with imobiliser but no alarm. The first time I opened it without zaping the "imobiliser" (I was only geting something out of the boot) the horn and alarm started blaring!

Susspect it was an optional extra at new as it appears to be the Disco1 system made to fit in a 110

Yes, it was an optional extra. If you were to buy the immobiliser from a Land Rover dealer to fit it yourself, you would have had 2 sets of fitting instructions. One to fit it to a Defender, and the other to fit to a Disco. Same system.
Take a look in your battery compartment and see if there is a roughly 4 inch square steel box attached to the front of the compartment. If it's there, it's the ' spider ' immmobiliser.
 
Aye the black socket is the diagnostic/reprogram socket fur the imobiliser , I looked at reprogramming some new fobs a few months back but fixed ma fobs wea solder instead. Ma systems still working so its staying.

Still would love tae ken what the rubber covered socket is fur as I canna find any mention of it anywhere. Mines a 98 300tdi so was the last of that model
 
Aye the black socket is the diagnostic/reprogram socket fur the imobiliser , I looked at reprogramming some new fobs a few months back but fixed ma fobs wea solder instead. Ma systems still working so its staying.

Still would love tae ken what the rubber covered socket is fur as I canna find any mention of it anywhere. Mines a 98 300tdi so was the last of that model

Well at least I know its not just me being stupid. I hope someone can trace the round one sometime, it definately looks like it belongs to the loom rather than a diy add on so I can't understand why no-one else seems to have one.
 

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Aye the black socket is the diagnostic/reprogram socket fur the imobiliser , I looked at reprogramming some new fobs a few months back but fixed ma fobs wea solder instead. Ma systems still working so its staying.

Still would love tae ken what the rubber covered socket is fur as I canna find any mention of it anywhere. Mines a 98 300tdi so was the last of that model

Are you able to trace these extra leads under the centre seat area to see if they are coming out of the main harness ? If so, does it look as if they were grafted into the harness, or part of the original equipment. Or are they separate from the main harness and leading off perhaps to one of the fuse boxes or the battery ?
 
Are you able to trace these extra leads under the centre seat area to see if they are coming out of the main harness ? If so, does it look as if they were grafted into the harness, or part of the original equipment. Or are they separate from the main harness and leading off perhaps to one of the fuse boxes or the battery ?

I'm going to see how far I can trace it when I fit the cubby (hoping this weekend) but I have had my head down through the access hatch and cant see any sign of where it splits off again, it doesn't have very far to go before the whole loom pops up in the fuse box region at which point things look fairly untraceable.
 
did anyone find out what the 3 cables are for, apart from power? I shall plug in a diagnostics scanner this week, but would be good if it can be used with a raspberry pi based device with a CAN hat and 4G to be able to remotely turn alarm & immobiliser on/off, or at least see status...
 
have had another look and the vendor specific pin is pin 8, which will be communicating with SA10? (the other two are 16 power and chassis ground obviously)
 
Well at least I know its not just me being stupid. I hope someone can trace the round one sometime, it definately looks like it belongs to the loom rather than a diy add on so I can't understand why no-one else seems to have one.
I have not read the full thread but is that just the connector for the diagnostic socket. Trace the lead back from the diagnostic.
 

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