Datatek
Well-Known Member
What vehicle did the engine come from?
Which sensor are you talking about?
What year is the engine/car, does it have a MAF & EGR?
tnseal
Active Member
Temp sensors are engine (ECU fuel) under manifold, Air temp in the manifold near the front and Fuel temp sensor within the FIP under the top lid. Before the FIP was moved did you carefully scratch a couple of marks on the pump ? This adjustment is very small and the ECU has to adjust, everytime. It's not like ignition timing. The adjustments are made and you really need the right test gear. Try to locate the engine number and that may give an indication to it's type. Although I do not think it would matter too much. Timing a pump can affect it's fueling if it's retarded, but you can pick up timing dial gauges on the web now. You need to follow the RAVE manual. Moving too many things, leads to a build up of problems. Logical process is required. Did the engine come complete with the pump ? When you undid the pumps top, lifting it too high can let the control collar spigot pop out and problems there. Search youtube for Bosch VE EDC pump overall . There's a video with a Bosch tech pulling one apart also VW Turbo Diesel pump seals, they show the spigot.
Engines are Early EDC and yours was a late edc. You would need to check RAVE as to specs on the timing.
Engines are Early EDC and yours was a late edc. You would need to check RAVE as to specs on the timing.
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I did take the top ov the pump with out putting a mark on it but my mechanic said that the pump was the problem so we changed the hole pump and ecu were going to give it a try to day see if that changes the way it's fuelling if not il haft to get the mechanic to time it up when I get the tool would the tools of paddock spares do the job thankyou
Is the Pump a genuine Land Rover pump as the ones fitted to other vehicles won't work, you'll have to change over the electronics in the top part of the pump.
Also the ECU, I trust this is similarly from another P38 and has been synced to the BeCM....
Also the ECU, I trust this is similarly from another P38 and has been synced to the BeCM....
Datatek
Well-Known Member
There is no air temperature sensor in the manifold on the EGR engine, it's in the MAF.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
So, have you re-fitted the EGR manifold and kept the MAF? The coolant temperature sensor for the engine ECU may be different between the early and late engines, if the sensor is duff it could cause rich running.
However, from your other posts, I suspect you have the top on the pump out of position.
Have you got a Nanocom or other diagnostics? What is that telling you.
If the pump number ends 994 then it should be OK.
I wouldn't take the top off that pump unless you have to. There is a security bolt on it (you have to hammer a 7mm (?) socket onto it to get it off and that can cause issues in itself. If you do decide then mark it up on every side so you know EXACTLY where it went, left to right, front to back, side to side and twist. It on takes about 0.1mm of movement.
The mechanical part of the pump timing is in RAVE. For higher mileage cars it should by 0.9mm using a dial gauge in the access hole in the middle of where all the high-pressure hoses come out. IIRC, number 1 cam lobe vertical, turn engine clockwise until gauge doesn't go any lower, zero dial guage, keep turning clockwise until you can get the TDC locking pin into the flywheel. Check measurement. Move pump AWAY from the engine and then slowly turn it BACK TOWARDS the engine until measurement correct. I stopped about 0.1mm short and as the FIP tightened up the last bit went smack on. Turn the engine round again and check it again to see if anything has moved or any clattering. If all looks good then reassemble.
If the pump number ends 994 then it should be OK.
I wouldn't take the top off that pump unless you have to. There is a security bolt on it (you have to hammer a 7mm (?) socket onto it to get it off and that can cause issues in itself. If you do decide then mark it up on every side so you know EXACTLY where it went, left to right, front to back, side to side and twist. It on takes about 0.1mm of movement.
The mechanical part of the pump timing is in RAVE. For higher mileage cars it should by 0.9mm using a dial gauge in the access hole in the middle of where all the high-pressure hoses come out. IIRC, number 1 cam lobe vertical, turn engine clockwise until gauge doesn't go any lower, zero dial guage, keep turning clockwise until you can get the TDC locking pin into the flywheel. Check measurement. Move pump AWAY from the engine and then slowly turn it BACK TOWARDS the engine until measurement correct. I stopped about 0.1mm short and as the FIP tightened up the last bit went smack on. Turn the engine round again and check it again to see if anything has moved or any clattering. If all looks good then reassemble.
Bladerunner919
Active Member
Sorry, not my neck of the woods.
Tomcatalan would be your best bet for that area to ask but he's away at the moment. Same with Wammers the diesel guru.
It isn't a difficult job. Any mechanic should be able to do it PDQ. How about a BMW specialist? Or Vauxhall Omega? The M51 engine went in lots of cars. If you look on the OmegaOwners forum (Omega Owners Forum - Index) you might find they know someone local. Very helpful over there.
Tomcatalan would be your best bet for that area to ask but he's away at the moment. Same with Wammers the diesel guru.
It isn't a difficult job. Any mechanic should be able to do it PDQ. How about a BMW specialist? Or Vauxhall Omega? The M51 engine went in lots of cars. If you look on the OmegaOwners forum (Omega Owners Forum - Index) you might find they know someone local. Very helpful over there.
