Dopey
Well-Known Member
Yes and blank nuts, and I have a P38 plate on it for power steeringVery poshWolf wheels too hope youve fitted longer studs.
Dopey
Well-Known Member
Yes all that, the one thing I am not looking forward to is doing the power steering, I am going to put the original banjo steering wheel in with the different splines, it's a whole different set up, but If I can do it, it will look a lot better than a disco wheel
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
I pasted the the van with about 6 six chassis on the back as i was on my way out to the motorway and said to my son there landrover chassis bet thats going to your place seams i was right, looks good and great progress
dag019
Well-Known Member
I would take the time now to prepare and paint the chassis. It is not something I did when I fitted mine to the 110 and is something I regret. It not only removes the shiny steal me look of a galv chassis but it doe also add an extra layer of protection. I know my 110 gets heavy use and high mileage but on rebuilding it after the fire recently (about 10 years after fitting the chassis) there is surface rust beginning to from in all of the usual places. I am sure if it was standard it would have rotted through by now, but while access is easy with nothing fitted I would definitely paint it.
Dopey
Well-Known Member
Yea I get what you're saying, you are not the first to say this to me, so I am taking the advice, so first I was it down with Mordant T wash solution (alkaline cleaning solution) then a primer, then paint
dag019
Well-Known Member
Yes that is it. I would recommend a nice hard tractor/machine enamel but other would say a chassis paint. I would also suggest that just because it is painted does not mean you don’t need to wax underseal (dinitrol/lanoguard/etc) I know it sounds like a lot of effort and overkill but if you are going to the effort of putting a new chassis on it you are already doing the work.
Wildefalcon
Well-Known Member
Epoxy 2k zinc phosphate as a first coat, followed by mastic epoxy and a top coat
Treat it as mild steel then it will last a very long time..
Treat it as mild steel then it will last a very long time..
Wildefalcon
Well-Known Member
Oh. And soak the interior with cavity wax. It's possible that there's ash and such like left in there from the dip process.
Bobsticle
De Villes Advocaat
I cut off my rear cross member today. Replaced it from the original about 7 ish years ago. Simply fell to bits from the inside. Looking at the rest of it makes me think I’ll be replacing the whole thing sooner rather than later. At least the third one is galvanised. Just need to find a good bit to weld it to.
Tape stiff garden wire to the loom and draw the loom forwards via the access hole in the engine bay, weld chassis, pull stiff wire to the rear.This crossmember I’m doing is probably more faffing than a full replacement. It’s taken two days just to hack the old one off and get the stubs ready. I’ve still got to chop the new one about to go round the spring hangers and electrics.
Bobsticle
De Villes Advocaat
No. Discover the looms are basically one big lump of snot from previous owners patching and purchase some heavy duty trailer cable ready for the re wire.
32amp cooker cable works best!No. Discover the looms are basically one big lump of snot from previous owners patching and purchase some heavy duty trailer cable ready for the re wire.
dag019
Well-Known Member
No. Discover the looms are basically one big lump of snot from previous owners patching and purchase some heavy duty trailer cable ready for the re wire.
Completely agree with making a new loom from HD trailer wire, but don't feed it back through the chassis. Put in in some conduit and feed it along the top edge. Makes future access for repairs to either the loom or the vehicle far easier and is no less protected than being inside. Both the 110 and the series have this setup and no issue on many years of abuse!
