The final cost will be...

  • £0 -£250

    Votes: 6 9.2%

  • £250 -£499

    Votes: 10 15.4%

  • £500 -£750

    Votes: 13 20.0%

  • £750 - bankruptcy

    Votes: 36 55.4%
  • Total voters
    65
Well i got the new lower mount, or tie rod as its called. The old one was looser than its replacment but not falling apart by any means. Anyway, replacing it made absolutely no difference what so ever.:rolleyes: So now Ill go to the next suspect mount, which is the one sort of under the battery tray and slightly back a bit. Just hope this one isn't too expensive! Ho hum.:( Onwards and downwards!:D
 
Got ter hand it to ya tiapan yer dont give up, , ,bleedin annoyin tryin ta pin a noise down ,but i'm sure ya gonna git it in the end ,even mrs ming is feelin sorry fer ya, and she dont normally show any emotions fer earthlings. . .best oh luck. . .:) :) :)
 
ming said:
Got ter hand it to ya tiapan yer dont give up, , ,bleedin annoyin tryin ta pin a noise down ,but i'm sure ya gonna git it in the end ,even mrs ming is feelin sorry fer ya, and she dont normally show any emotions fer earthlings. . .best oh luck. . .:) :) :)
Click to expand...
Thanks for the words of sumpathy/encouragement.:) Its frustrating and annoying, but no big deal really. We still like the car and just want to get it sorted out so we can enjoy it without the embarrassing vibration. I'm off to Stratstones at lunchtime to order up the next mount. I'll get there in the end!:D

The Freelander has such an awful reputation that we went into ownership knowing this and with our eyes wide open. I expected some repair bills during ownership, but sometimes there are things you just want to own and you have to pay for the privilledge!;) :D
 
Soz you didnt get sorted with the vibration. Its starting to annoy me too if its any consolation.

Large mount you mentioned is about £150, check Heinzs for specific type. Might even be worth trying the local breakers.

When you replaced the lower tie rod did you inspect the IRD mounting? There are about 6 bolts keeping it in place. There have been some reports of these showing small fractures in the mount.
 
LR1796 said:
Soz you didnt get sorted with the vibration. Its starting to annoy me too if its any consolation.

Large mount you mentioned is about £150, check Heinzs for specific type. Might even be worth trying the local breakers.

When you replaced the lower tie rod did you inspect the IRD mounting? There are about 6 bolts keeping it in place. There have been some reports of these showing small fractures in the mount.
Click to expand...

Hi Mate

Well the new mounting may have not cured it but it was worn and was probably a contributing factor anyway. I keep telling myself that and the lost money isn't so painful then!;) :D

The othe rmouint that appears worn when yanking the negine is about is the one below the battery tray and slightly back a bit. I think its number 14 in the diagram below. Stratsones quoted £93.17+VAT if it is that one?
attachment.php


I saw a TSB about that IRD mount and I think its the petrol only. I couldn't see any issues on mine anyway?
best

Dave
 
Taipan said:
Hi Mate



The othe rmouint that appears worn when yanking the negine is about is the one below the battery tray and slightly back a bit. I think its number 14 in the diagram below. Stratsones quoted £93.17+VAT if it is that one?
attachment.php
Click to expand...


Thats a good price I priced the petrol one was about £150 but I havent removed that mount before or purchased one yet.

Does your engine have the Hydramount on the RHS above front wheel? Try it as well

You could get an old rubber car mat, fold it and wedge it into the space between mount and buffer of the LH mount. This might show if it is curing the prob.

As mentioned before Im surprised no-one has come up with a better mount design. Even Mini Sport produce a heavy duty mount for the old school minis. Still working on the bushes will let you know of any improvements.

Nil desparandum
 
LR1796 said:
Thats a good price I priced the petrol one was about £150 but I havent removed that mount before or purchased one yet.

Does your engine have the Hydramount on the RHS above front wheel? Try it as well

You could get an old rubber car mat, fold it and wedge it into the space between mount and buffer of the LH mount. This might show if it is curing the prob.

As mentioned before Im surprised no-one has come up with a better mount design. Even Mini Sport produce a heavy duty mount for the old school minis. Still working on the bushes will let you know of any improvements.

Nil desparandum
Click to expand...

Thanks. It looks like a pig of a job to replace this mount? I'd liek to remove and inspect it before ordering the new one due to the price of the thing. But dont like the idea of leaving the engine jacked up etc.

Your idea of shimming the mount out with an old car mat is a good one. I'll certainly try that approach first. Nice tip, thanks.:cool:
 
Yes bit awkward thats why I havent got round to removing it yet. Roll on the light evenings.

Just use, large blocks of wood. Place trolley jack under bell housing to support weight and stack blocks underneath gearbox/sump
 
LR1796 said:
Yes bit awkward thats why I havent got round to removing it yet. Roll on the light evenings.

Just use, large blocks of wood. Place trolley jack under bell housing to support weight and stack blocks underneath gearbox/sump
Click to expand...

Did you pack your mount out to confirm that it was gone?
 
Taipan said:
Did you pack your mount out to confirm that it was gone?
Click to expand...

Only on one side. It was awful weather and as much I dont mind working on cars, enough was enough.

I intend to pack both sides of the damper when I get chance.

So bottom line..... I cant give a definitive answer, try it on both sides and see if it resolves the matter.
 
Well Taipan, if nowt else, you've created one of the most readable threads so far in my humble opinion! Am waiting with anticipation for the next episode - along with many others I suspect! Reduced my vibration by swopping wheels front to back diagonally and pumping up to 3o psi all round(never knew this was now correct pressure from 26 till I read a post on LZ!!!) Good hunting and best of luck!
 
Have I missed something here Retsgom? All tyres are the same make and with what appears to be same wear. Will revert if it is dangerous, of course! Plan to block all four corners up this weekend anyway and get a listening tool too see if I can isolate some noise.
 
When a tyre is fitted to a vehicle, it creates its own wear pattern, if you swap the wheels around and mix them in a diagonal pattern, then not all of the worn tread surface of the tyre will be in contact with the road.:eek:

This is a highly dangerous practice and should be avoided at all costs !!!!!:eek:
 
Used to be standard practice years ago and recommended by all major tyre companies but, thanks for the heads up on this matter, Retsgom. Will take your advise and will revert them back over the weekend when I get it blocked up. Will be interesting to see if the "bad vibes" return!
 
ah think the idea of rotating ( cue tyres going round gags) yer tyres was to encourage even wear, obviously if you've left it too late then it might be like wot rets as sed
 
They're about half worn - Michelin synchron. No feathering on rears. (or ex rears as it is now). Anyway, no probs. Just exploring as I have similar to Taipan - VCU turns as per lever in prop test and I dropped complete prop assy off to test if it was VCU support bearings. All ok there! Gonna get a long handled screw driver and put it to my ear - used to work a treat when listening on rocker cover for noisy tappets and also suspect noisy wheel bearings so we'll see what evolves.
 
Hello, Ambulance service please.....Ambulance required for man with screwdriver embedded in head....


Handle to your ear Miles, not tother way round mate.....:p
 
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