ronnierix

ronnierix

Active Member
Hi guys as the title suggests I’ve acquired a new toy. It’s. 1998 p38 4.6 V8 in Niagara grey done 120,000 and was cheap enough to have a play with over the next few years.

Any advice .? I know you guys have a wealth of knowledge and would appreciate any advice from people that have been as foolish as I’ve decided to be lol
 
Flush the brake fluid and then bleed according to the procedure in RAVE. Change the airsprings if they haven't been done, they are a major cause of EAS problems when they are old and start to leak.
 
Datatek said:
Flush the brake fluid and then bleed according to the procedure in RAVE. Change the airsprings if they haven't been done, they are a major cause of EAS problems when they are old and start to leak.
Click to expand...
Thanks mate I’ll do the brakes as you’ve suggested. I believe it’s on springs now but will have to check.
 
Give the rear brake pipes a good looking over for corrosion and replace unless they look great, do flexies the same time for what they cost then flush and bleed as per RAVE. Check top and bottom swivel balljoints for play or perished rubbers, these will fail the mot and if you do your own repairs outside like lots have to, it's a miserable job in the cold and wet. Check carpet is dry drivers side near the feet blow vent, another job, if its leaking antifreeze, that's OK to do but not in winter outside.
If it's an auto, fluid and filter change.
 
Flossie said:
Give the rear brake pipes a good looking over for corrosion and replace unless they look great, do flexies the same time for what they cost then flush and bleed as per RAVE. Check top and bottom swivel balljoints for play or perished rubbers, these will fail the mot and if you do your own repairs outside like lots have to, it's a miserable job in the cold and wet. Check carpet is dry drivers side near the feet blow vent, another job, if its leaking antifreeze, that's OK to do but not in winter outside.
If it's an auto, fluid and filter change.
Click to expand...
Plus change the transfer box fluid (ATF) and the diff oil
 
This list could go on and on:D.
Check for rainwater in the spare wheel well, sniff the fuse box for burnt smells.
:)
 
Flossie said:
Give the rear brake pipes a good looking over for corrosion and replace unless they look great, do flexies the same time for what they cost then flush and bleed as per RAVE. Check top and bottom swivel balljoints for play or perished rubbers, these will fail the mot and if you do your own repairs outside like lots have to, it's a miserable job in the cold and wet. Check carpet is dry drivers side near the feet blow vent, another job, if its leaking antifreeze, that's OK to do but not in winter outside.
If it's an auto, fluid and filter change.
Click to expand...
Thanks Flossie. Will do. It will be on the drive outside I’m afraid
 
White plug connectors in the lower kick panels. Drivers and passenger sides.
Axle ball joints upper and lowers,
Axle shaft seals in the same area.
Anti roll bar drop links.
Steering box adjustment (if needed ).
Coolant system health. Pump, thermostat and so on.
Heater core o rings.
Propshaft uj's for play and grease up.
Front wheel off the floor and see if you can slowly turn it with a wheel brace on the hub nut or wheel but (carefully).... Err more to follow :cool:
 
ronnierix said:
Thanks Flossie. Will do. It will be on the drive outside I’m afraid
Click to expand...
Not sure which year the rear brake pipe lay out changed but if you look up at the inside of the chassis rail next to the side of the fuel tank...if you see a sort of 'S' shaped shortish brake pipe then you have the later layout like mine. Those pipes are the first to go bad. If they all look a bit ropey there is 2 joiners behind the drivers side front wheel liner, you can fit all new pipes and flexies from there back and forget about them for years.
Don't know where you are but a few of us have nanocoms and other special gear which can come in handy which some may lend out or read faults for a drink. Nanocom is £500 odd but if she's a keeper, worth it.
 
Flossie said:
Not sure which year the rear brake pipe lay out changed but if you look up at the inside of the chassis rail next to the side of the fuel tank...if you see a sort of 'S' shaped shortish brake pipe then you have the later layout like mine. Those pipes are the first to go bad. If they all look a bit ropey there is 2 joiners behind the drivers side front wheel liner, you can fit all new pipes and flexies from there back and forget about them for years.
Don't know where you are but a few of us have nanocoms and other special gear which can come in handy which some may lend out or read faults for a drink. Nanocom is £500 odd but if she's a keeper, worth it.
Click to expand...
I just thought that.
If you do change the brake pipes on the later setup. I had to do all the copper work from the driver footwell to the rear including all the rubber pipes. (heads broke off in pipes)....
 
Mark Piercy said:
White plug connectors in the lower kick panels. Drivers and passenger sides.
Axle ball joints upper and lowers,
Axle shaft seals in the same area.
Anti roll bar drop links.
Steering box adjustment (if needed ).
Coolant system health. Pump, thermostat and so on.
Heater core o rings.
Propshaft uj's for play and grease up.
Front wheel of the floor and see if you can slowly turn it with a wheel brace on the hub nut or wheel but (carefully).... Err more to follow :cool:
Click to expand...
Box in neutral isn't it? For vcu check.
 
If and when the pump stops charging on the abs block the pedal should give between three to four good pumps before the system recharges and stores pressure in the sphere. If not the sphère could also have lost its capacity to store fluid.
 
Mark Piercy said:
I just thought that.
If you do change the brake pipes on the later setup. I had to do all the copper work from the driver footwell to the rear including all the rubber pipes. (heads broke off in pipes)....
Click to expand...
I think my thread ' Duchess is in the garage!' Is worth a search for @ronnierix some pics etc you might find useful as I'm new to p38 too.
IMG-20210717-WA0001.jpg
 
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